new pads, but rotors as well ?
#1
Track Day
Thread Starter
new pads, but rotors as well ?
hi
when the car was in for a service recently was told that the pads are nearing the end of life, can't say i'm surprised, pretty sure they are what came with the car and they have got 32k on them now including a couple track days.
i've got a track day booked in a few weeks and dont want to run out of brakes after the first session, though one of my more carefree suggested running until i hear metal on metal and just replacing pads and disks after that. but sounds a little harsh.
looking at the attached does anyone have an opinion (hey this is the internet after all) about if just the pads or the disks as well. the disks are a bit rusty in the pics as had not been out for a week or two but its soon cleared off after an italian tune up.
there doesn't seem to be much of a lip on the rotors and have aged rather well. i'm sort of assuming that the pads will bed into any grooves if used suitably.
rears https://photos.app.goo.gl/TqZpoq72yzbSZweK9
front https://photos.app.goo.gl/9L7YCev9s96qf7SX8
thanks in advance.
front disk and pad
rear disk and pad
when the car was in for a service recently was told that the pads are nearing the end of life, can't say i'm surprised, pretty sure they are what came with the car and they have got 32k on them now including a couple track days.
i've got a track day booked in a few weeks and dont want to run out of brakes after the first session, though one of my more carefree suggested running until i hear metal on metal and just replacing pads and disks after that. but sounds a little harsh.
looking at the attached does anyone have an opinion (hey this is the internet after all) about if just the pads or the disks as well. the disks are a bit rusty in the pics as had not been out for a week or two but its soon cleared off after an italian tune up.
there doesn't seem to be much of a lip on the rotors and have aged rather well. i'm sort of assuming that the pads will bed into any grooves if used suitably.
rears https://photos.app.goo.gl/TqZpoq72yzbSZweK9
front https://photos.app.goo.gl/9L7YCev9s96qf7SX8
thanks in advance.
front disk and pad
rear disk and pad
#2
Burning Brakes
I would buy a set of track pads to put on for the track. Then put your stock pads back on and finish using the stock pads and rotors up. My local dealership will only change pads with rotors which is what I think they all try to do. It is insanely expensive for them to do this and not worth it in comparison to other options. Swapping the pads is easy, and you can save ALOT of money doing yourself. Depending on how many track days you plan on doing, I would consider buying the AP Racing rotors from Essex and a set of track pads. Then putting your stock pads on for the street.
#3
Rennlist Member
I've resurfaced the rotors on my 987.2 S before putting a new set of pads on them. just make sure you have enough thickness to do so. Any good brake shop can resurface crossdrilled rotors for about $15-20 a pcs
#4
Rennlist Member
^^^ This.
Your pads look totally fine for a LOT more street miles. They're only 1/2 used up. Either go to the track with them and use them up in a few days there, or swap to track pads and then come back home and put the street pads back in for a while. You do NOT need new rotors until the wear marker is showing the need to replace. Dealerships LOVE to replace rotors and pads together. That's BS most of the time.
Your pads look totally fine for a LOT more street miles. They're only 1/2 used up. Either go to the track with them and use them up in a few days there, or swap to track pads and then come back home and put the street pads back in for a while. You do NOT need new rotors until the wear marker is showing the need to replace. Dealerships LOVE to replace rotors and pads together. That's BS most of the time.
Last edited by mgordon18; 05-10-2019 at 01:03 PM.
#5
Rennlist Member
PCA requires at least half of the pad material remain to pass tech inspection. I would do the track pad solution and use your OEM pads up on the street. I understand the other problem with worn pads for the track is their ability to absorb and dissipate heat effectively. Overheated pads wear more rapidly apparently. Someone confirm or correct my info. It would be a drag to have your track day cut short over this. Good luck.
#6
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PCA requires at least half of the pad material remain to pass tech inspection. I would do the track pad solution and use your OEM pads up on the street. I understand the other problem with worn pads for the track is their ability to absorb and dissipate heat effectively. Overheated pads wear more rapidly apparently. Someone confirm or correct my info. It would be a drag to have your track day cut short over this. Good luck.
Get the caliper (Tarrett ?IIRC?) stud kit(*) so that you don't wear out the threads in the wheel carrier from caliper removal and then swap track pads-in.
Last, whenever you swap pads, new rotors or not, always, always, always re-bed them before hitting the road.
(*) There is at least one PCA region that will not tech a 991 without caliper studs rather than the OE bolts. FWIW.
#7
Rennlist Member
Dealer trying to sell extra service. Don’t change until sensor lights come on. Change rotors every other pad change.
For track, follow advice of others above.
For track, follow advice of others above.
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#8
I’m a tech inspector for PCA. Your rotors are fine. Rotors usually fail by developing heat cracks radiating inward and outward from the drill holes. I can’t see any cracks on your rotors. Track pads will last much longer than OEM pads and will have a lot more “bite”. Unfortunately it is not that easy to swap them back to OEM for street use because the calipers have to come off, and because of the caliper bolt issue mentioned above. Your OEM pads may not last you a full day depending on driver experience level. At a minimum I would get new OEM pads and preferably track pads. Dealers are notoriously bad at giving advice on this.
#9
Track Day
Thread Starter
hi
thank you everyone for the advise, really is most helpful and appreciated.
to be honest i dont have the time or space to swap over the pads myself, and given i only do one or two track days a year which always seem to be more social days than anything too competitive, so plenty of tie to call down or get a passenger ride or two. i think i'll get the pads changed over so don'r have any probs on the day.
there is a good independent garage in our village so i'll ask them to put in some new OE pads rather than pestering the main dealers.
thanks all
thank you everyone for the advise, really is most helpful and appreciated.
to be honest i dont have the time or space to swap over the pads myself, and given i only do one or two track days a year which always seem to be more social days than anything too competitive, so plenty of tie to call down or get a passenger ride or two. i think i'll get the pads changed over so don'r have any probs on the day.
there is a good independent garage in our village so i'll ask them to put in some new OE pads rather than pestering the main dealers.
thanks all
#10
My dealer advise me to change the rotors and pads at 10k mike street driven by an older gentleman. I laugh and ask him how much is PCCB rotor and pads estimate? He said only about $10-12k. I kindly decline his advise.
#12
Rennlist Member
==^ This. Once pads get to 50% they'll be done-done before the end of the next track day and you'll probably need brown pants when you experience the result.
Get the caliper (Tarrett ?IIRC?) stud kit(*) so that you don't wear out the threads in the wheel carrier from caliper removal and then swap track pads-in.
Last, whenever you swap pads, new rotors or not, always, always, always re-bed them before hitting the road.
(*) There is at least one PCA region that will not tech a 991 without caliper studs rather than the OE bolts. FWIW.
Get the caliper (Tarrett ?IIRC?) stud kit(*) so that you don't wear out the threads in the wheel carrier from caliper removal and then swap track pads-in.
Last, whenever you swap pads, new rotors or not, always, always, always re-bed them before hitting the road.
(*) There is at least one PCA region that will not tech a 991 without caliper studs rather than the OE bolts. FWIW.
PCA region may be a bit conservative for first time drivers and may very well have the unintended consequence of creating an impediment to entry for the newbie. For those that track regularly, studs are the only way to go to be safe and preserve the wheel carrier.
#13
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I think the
PCA region may be a bit conservative for first time drivers and may very well have the unintended consequence of creating an impediment to entry for the newbie.
PCA region may be a bit conservative for first time drivers and may very well have the unintended consequence of creating an impediment to entry for the newbie.