Cracked Oil Drain Plug!
07-30-2018, 03:10 PM
#17
Same. This is the first cracked drain plug I've heard of in 20+ years of working on 911's. Either a defective casting or operator error. Y'all spend your money how you like, but nobody needs to change the drain plug with every oil change or every X oil changes.
The following users liked this post:
IXLR8 (02-16-2020)
07-30-2018, 03:48 PM
#18
Nordschleife Master
First I am hearing that plug needs to be changed with every oil change too!
07-30-2018, 07:27 PM
#19
Race Director
** Sorry, my mistake. Only the crush washer is recommended with every oil change.
The plug only if showing wear or threads going bad.
The key to all of this is using the proper torque!
The plug only if showing wear or threads going bad.
The key to all of this is using the proper torque!
07-30-2018, 07:49 PM
#20
Burning Brakes
The key to all of this is using the proper torque![/QUOTE]
If you look at the plug the rim circumference around it cracked... Either the plug was over torqued such that the middle of the plug went in while the rim lagged behind and thus cracking....or the plug was defective to begin with.
Abe
If you look at the plug the rim circumference around it cracked... Either the plug was over torqued such that the middle of the plug went in while the rim lagged behind and thus cracking....or the plug was defective to begin with.
Abe
07-30-2018, 08:59 PM
#21
Racer
The plug is alloy to save weight . That's why you like your car so much ? I have never measured torque on a drain plug ? Up grading to a mag one is a good plan . I doubt you will notice the weight gain . Next potential owner will think there has been some sort of engine molestation and run off .
07-30-2018, 10:11 PM
#22
Rennlist Member
Buy the magnetic plug and keep your old one just in case. Same goes for washers - although they are cheap, you really don’t have to replace them after every oil change. Keep a few and replace them after visual inspection.
08-03-2018, 12:10 PM
#23
Racer
One day I'm going to get lucky and discover something poorly engineered on my car! I will then hoist the offending part skyward and announce to all who will read: "Burn the Witch...uuhhmm, I mean "Damn those German engineers! You too must replace this shabby, poorly engineered part on your car because it is BAAAAAD!" Ohhh, and I just so happen to have them (new and improved) for sale! 2 for $199 (community service and all that, and proceeds will be promptly spend on a torque wrench) to keep me from breaking, uhh, I mean discovering another poorly engineered part again! Chortle chortle...
02-12-2020, 05:14 PM
#24
This may have been covered already but confirm your plug torque is not in Nm. My Pana 4 manual is all in Nm.
37ftlb is an extraordinary amount of torque for an oil plug!
A rear spindle nut on a KTM bike takes 37ftlbs !
This is probably why the aluminium plug is cracked.
Good luck 👍
37ftlb is an extraordinary amount of torque for an oil plug!
A rear spindle nut on a KTM bike takes 37ftlbs !
This is probably why the aluminium plug is cracked.
Good luck 👍
The following 2 users liked this post by PP4:
Mike Murphy (02-12-2020),
Thinc2 (02-14-2020)
02-12-2020, 05:43 PM
#25
Interesting. I'll have to remember that when I start doing oil changes on my 16GTS. If I recall correctly the oil plug on my 2000 Boxster S has a rubber gasket and I have never replaced it and that's 20 or so oil changes. As far as the crush washer; on my 95 Audi S6 I would replace it every oil change. You tighten the plug until you feel the crush washer squish and after that I would rarely reuse one (only when I ran out and did the oil change without checking my supplies).
02-12-2020, 07:17 PM
#26
Rennlist Member
This is for 991.1's with the metal oil pan.
Oil drain plug to oil pan M18 x 1.5 – replace sealing ring Tightening torque 50 Nm (37 ftlb.)
Oil filter cover Replace and grease O-ring Tightening torque 25 Nm (19 ftlb.)
Oil drain plug to oil pan M18 x 1.5 – replace sealing ring Tightening torque 50 Nm (37 ftlb.)
Oil filter cover Replace and grease O-ring Tightening torque 25 Nm (19 ftlb.)
02-12-2020, 07:27 PM
#27
Lexvan I also torqued my oil drain plug to 37 lbs. Which I thought was too high. In the past I have torqued other cars to about 20lbs. Everything I read said 37 lbs. In fact you posted this below. Does anyone know correct torque for drain plug.
05-25-2018, 09:10 AM
#2
LexVan
Addict
Rennlist Member
LexVan's Avatar
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Chicagoland Area
Posts: 21,854
Likes: 0
Received 1,082 Likes on 605 Posts
DefaultThe torque spec is 37 ft.lbs. Using a new crush washer.
Oil filter cap is 19 ft.lbs.
The cabin filters are very easy, just have to be a midget contortionist for the one under the glove box.
Mobil 0W40 is Porsche A40 approved. Mobil 5W50 is too, and a good selection for your Florida heat.
Welcome to Rennlist!
02-13-2020, 06:27 AM
#29
Banned
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Chicagoland Area
Posts: 26,142
Likes: 0
Received 5,388 Likes
on
2,509 Posts
I am using an L&N Bilit Magnetic Drain Plug and the torque spec on that is a low 19 ft.lbs. with a new factory crush washer.
02-13-2020, 09:58 AM
#30
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Central Massachusetts
Posts: 1,796
Likes: 0
Received 349 Likes
on
182 Posts
Here's a hypothesis on this cracked plug: the hex tool was not inserted all the way into the bottom of plug when it was torqued tight. The torque was applied toward the top of the plug where the crack is. I have seen several posts over the years about people who have stripped the hex out of the plug when inadvertently doing this. I could also envision the crack resulting from this inadvertent failure to fully insert the tool when torquing it down.