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Thank you, Daberlin, awesome thread. I just changed my battery this AM. Picked-up when Battreries Plus opened at 8AM, drove home, did the work, done at 9:30AM. Did a nice detail under to cowel and changed the paper pre-air filter, too.
I just checked my maintenance records. My factory battery lasted 5 years and 6 days. And over 62,000 miles. I always used a battery maintainer.
Lex. Changed mine in the ‘13, 2 weeks ago. 6 years, 8 months! Only sign it was on its last leg was the voltmeter was 15.0-15.2. Longest period I’ve ever gotten out of a battery. And of course, kept it on a CTEK.
I bought my 2017 new 18 months ago but it had sat in an Appalachian dealer's showroom nearly 2 years b4 Napleton bought that dealership and trucked some new Porsches to Chicago where they would sell easier. So my battery is nearly 4 years old. I almost went for an Antigravity Li-Fe-Ph with remote starter pack on sale. But i decided to chance another year with my OEM battery. My problem is i don't know if that dealer used a maintainer religiously on my battery. It might not have the life expected for a new Porsche OEM AGM battery.
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Would Interstate MTX-49 H8 work? Is there really a need for programming? I'm not sure I can swap the battery in 10 seconds, so chances are high that things would get reset. So, what do i do in that case? Is it just moving seat and window positions to end stops?
Yes and cheaper if you buy it from Costco. Don't know (I had my indi program using Autel and volt is in the 12.5+). I had to redo windows memory but seat memory was not lost (I had the maintainer connected).
Yes and cheaper if you buy it from Costco. Don't know (I had my indi program using Autel and volt is in the 12.5+). I had to redo windows memory but seat memory was not lost (I had the maintainer connected).
I got the battery from Costco. Indeed $177. Swap was pretty trivial. Took less than 30 minutes.
Window stop positions got messed up. I had to redo the end stop procedure.
Yes and cheaper if you buy it from Costco. Don't know (I had my indi program using Autel and volt is in the 12.5+). I had to redo windows memory but seat memory was not lost (I had the maintainer connected).
I bought my 2017 new 18 months ago but it had sat in an Appalachian dealer's showroom nearly 2 years b4 Napleton bought that dealership and trucked some new Porsches to Chicago where they would sell easier. So my battery is nearly 4 years old. I almost went for an Antigravity Li-Fe-Ph with remote starter pack on sale. But i decided to chance another year with my OEM battery. My problem is i don't know if that dealer used a maintainer religiously on my battery. It might not have the life expected for a new Porsche OEM AGM battery.
for $150.00 and 15minutes of easy work
just change it
Awesome write up, detail w pics, no steps left out
Originally Posted by afk
for $150.00 and 15minutes of easy work
just change it
Just changed battery in 13 S w 25k miles.
Fyi, looked into anti gravity lithium battery but didn't feel need to spend 800$. Found AGM battery from Walmart for 149$. 5 year free replacement. They install for free but I installed myself because 1. The battery was dead so I couldn't drive there and 2. I rather diy then have them mess up or scratch the car.
AGM, 900 cca, 95 Ah vs 70 Ah for oem. Larger and heavier but fits perfectly.
Excellent tutorial. Replaced mine today with Duracell AGM as above (same as Bosch replacement at 70% of the price). I suggest using an extension with a 13 mm deep socket with copious grease inside for the nut on the upper partially hidden bracket nut. This will keep the nut in the socket and your hands need not get mangled. took 45 minutes with a low energy day.
I just replaced my 7 year old battery on my 2013 S w/19k, replacing the OEM H6 Banner AGM battery with a H7 Champion AGM as the SOH was approaching 40%. After reading thru the battery threads, I have a few additional observations that could make it easier for anyone else in the future as I was left a bit uncertain ahead of doing the swap. Otherwise, it's a very straight forward DIY project.
I have a icarsoft v2.0 updated with the latest firmware and it successfully coded the new battery BMS, unlike posts I read from earlier in 2019. I used the original battery serial number and part number (999.611.080.10), just replacing the 70 amp fields with 80 amps for the new battery. It went smoothly and the icarsoft continues to impress as I recently did some other maintenance, including oil, air filters and spark plugs.
I would have been happy putting another H6 in but the H7 was on sale for $50 less. I see a lot of people going with H8s as it's the size noted in most battery application guides but it's overkill and adds 12+lbs. I included a photo of some standard Wal-Mart batteries I laid out in the H6/H7/H8 sizes for comparative reference. Our cars seemingly can use any of these but each larger size is 1.5" longer and 6-7lb heavier. I decided to split the difference and save a few dollars.
I also decided to use my CTEK battery maintainer in the footwell socket (my normal charging outlet) during the battery exchange. I can confirm that it was maintaining power to the car as the frunk light stayed on during the battery swap which was good to see. Not critical to use but it was handy.
The car stumbled a brief bit on the first start up with the new battery but no big deal as it quickly adjusted. It did something similar with the new spark plugs. I'll chalk it up to a sensitive and sophisticated ECU.
Just replaced mine 2012.5 with a champion from pep boys. Remeber to check your dates folks. The one they were trying to sell me was 9 months old with a 4 year replacement. I started to walk away then they offered a discount. I countered with $100 and they took it (I assume they dont sell a lot of these). Watch that 13mm on the firewall if it gets away from you your gonna have an easter egg hunt.
No coding and no codes thrown. I did not use a tender. Upon reflection I will probably go oem next time due to lifespan and it looks like it weighs signifigantly less.
Hello everyone,
I have a 2013 911 that I store for the winter in Wisconsin. In November I took the battery out of the car to store inside and put on a charger 2 days before the re-install. The battery is a replaced OEM Porsche battery. 5 months latter On April 18th I put the battery back in my car and started without any faults at all, the car started right up. My radio settings and seat memory where all good. I did not see any of the window and steering faults mentioned in the thread.
Maybe I was lucky but this is the 2nd year of me owning the car and the 2nd winter storing a 991. I did the same procedure with my 997 and never had any issue.
I think everyone is over thinking the battery replacement procedure. Once again this is with a car that is 7 years old.
I replaced the original battery (WW24 of '14 build) today. I knew this was coming, but the car started throwing U0155 and U0164. Both of these are CANBUS errors & seemed highly likely to be related to dying battery.
I went with the Duracell from Batteries+. They're close to my house and very convenient. I didn't bother with maintaining car power, and the only thing that needed to be reset was the clock .... which did itself via GPS once out the garage.
The only gotcha is that the mounting hole for the bracket was corroded for some reason, so I pulled the whole battery mounting plate out and cleaned it up. PB Blaster & a metal brush solved the problem, no taps needed. The mounting plate comes out easily - it's 4 14mm bolts - and there are two pieces of electronics that I didn't expect mounted to the back of it. I have no idea what they do.
Replaced the battery & cleared the codes, and all is good so far.
I will note that my POR II (NOT the V2.0) will not change battery fields as far as I can find, but it will read the current values in the "gateway" portion of the menus.
That has been my experience as well, I only lost windows memory position which takes all or a few window button clicks to reset !! I've now had that new battery for a year, never had it "coded" by a dealer, and nothing's different... I do notice that even with a new battery, this is a car that will drain the crap out of a battery when not used...Best left on a tender whenever possible.. I'm faffing up a permanent quick connection above the trunk lid so I don't need to leave something open when maintaining - it'll need to waterproofing or a little hole in the plastic cover but I want to use the CTEK pigtails there for ease of connection...
About GregD's "coded" comment above, I was going to replace the battery in my 2013 Carrera S until I read this in the Porsche service manual: "If the battery is replaced, both numbers [serial number and part number] must be entered in the gateway control unit under: Gateway/Maintenance, repairs/Changing battery." I assume this is what GregD means by "coded." Does anyone know why Porsche says it's a "must" to enter the battery data into the car's control unit? I'm guessing it could be for one or both of two reasons: (1) because the car's electronics need to know the battery capacity for proper charging rates, etc while car is operating, and/or (2) so that when a technician reads out battery condition data via the OBD port, the report will be accurate for the power and capacity of the battery installed. But these reasons are guesses. Does anyone know the reason for coding the battery into the car's system?
12-19-2019, 12:35 PM
991 Battery Replacement
