LSR

Well, I must say that was one of the most enjoyable threads I've read! Some folks - including you, LexVan! - have a great sense of humor. I doubt the actual solution of changing the warning signals volume level on the MFD is available on my 2013. But I'll certainly check. It should work, though, on my 2019 Cayenne though. I'll give it a whirl.

Thanks!

mx-5

Yes, I've thought about it. In fact, there's a iCarsoft CR V2.0 for multi brand application. I wonder if the Porsche functions are the same as the POR V2.0 - anyone have first hand experience of the CR V2.0 on the 991?

991howl

Thanks and good to know.
Additional data points: Due to WFH situation, the car is not getting driven daily, except weekend fun run(s). BTW, not hooked up to CTEK maintainer.
Last Saturday, starting temperature was in the high fifties (garage) before the weather Gods sent much needed snow storm to quelch the Colorado fires.

991howl

After entering a secret key, I also have access to this..

GSBruce

Today I replaced the 6-1/2 year old "Porsche" OEM battery from my 2014 991.1 base, ~14,500 miles, with the Champion 900 CCA AGM 48-month battery from Pep Boys with their current 25% off promotion. $188.21 including tax. Thanks to the OP and contributors for this excellent thread. The old battery was fine, but 6-1/2 years is a long time, battery-wise, imo, and I liked the price on the new battery.

I have a Durametric so I'll look for a shop to get the new battery coded in.

Antigravity

As an FYI.... when you/dealer change the programming in PIWIS after doing a Battery install the charging profile will change to what is Programmed/Coded/Registered for. For example in programming in PIWIS you can select the type of Battery AGM/FLA/LITHIUM, so if you input a higher Amp Hour Battery the voltage may indeed go up a little since the battery is larger and the system assumes it needs more to get a charge into the battery since it is a larger Capacity that was programmed. Also during the winter Voltage will go up because during the winter a lead acid battery needs a little more to keep it charged if the battery is colder...meaning Lead charges slower when cold so the system considers that and applies higher voltages during winter. The cars system actually monitors the air temperature, and adjusts the charging systems output, and it actually does go into the 15v and high range.... but mostly only on Porsches oddly.... we tracked other cars and they go up but stay BELOW 15v.

As far as the programming we don't recommend a change for our Lithium Batteries because our Lithium Battery can basically accept any charging profiles and be fine, but more importantly Porsche's Lithium profile for the Cars pre 2020 had a Lithium Charging profile (per their bulletin) that maxed out a 13.8v of output, but it was intended for the Porsche Lithium Battery they sold a few years ago as an option, and this profile of only charging to 13.8v was also intended to create less of a drag on Track Cars because they are often pinned in the higher RPM ranges when Tracking/Racing and with a lower voltage output that creates a little less drag from the Alternator. But unless you are tracking only it is not really necessary to change to a Lithium Setting, also the fact is our modern Lithium Battery can easily handle any charging profile and that older Porsche Lithium was not really set up for that. So we always say... DON"T change the PIWIS to Lithium because it won't help, just put it in and drive..... unless you are only a track person.

As far as having to change the programming for a new Battery I would say from our experience, and also owning a Porsche myself, is that you only need to change the Programming if you are replacing a battery that has been in the car for several years.. like 4-5 years or more. The reason for this is because the profile doesn't change much until your car's system sees the battery is older, the programming keeps track of the age of the battery, but a battery that died in 2 or 3 years can just be swapped with a new one and all is fine, you don't have to go to Porsche to reprogram for that. But if you have a 5 year old battery I would say go for it to get a fresh reset on the date of the new battery install.

Splitsecond

Looks like there's a -15% sale on the Antigravity batteries for black friday... (coupon code BF15)

Question for the Antigravity folks:
Would the 40AH option (i.e. H6-40-RS), be sufficient for significantly cold weather? like -20 Degrees F? while unlikely that I would ever need to start my car, outside, at that temperature, it is possible. And the thought of being stranded in those temps is far from ideal.
Up here in the frozen tundra, the car stays in a garage whenever its parked 99%, aside from the potential for a restaurant visit. but you never know what the future may bring.

Car is a 2014 C4S. 991.1.
Thanks in advance!

p.s. weight savings are underrated. Love your description [far] above!

Fullyield

But it is still a Subaru.

F1SML8R

Let's be frank here, I don't know of any automotive battery (lead acid, AGM, Lithium, etc.) that would be well suited for -20 degrees. Heck, even specialty deep cycle batteries would likely struggle with this. This is why many auto manufacturers sell "heating blanket" accessories that wrap their OEM batteries for people that leave their cars in freezing temps.

Antigravity

Being honest as F1 said that is really not where any battery should be at.... a lead Acid Battery could easily freeze there also. So I would not suggest our battery for that type of use. It intended for typical weather that a Sports Car would be driven in and that means occasional ski trip jaunts and some stuff in the below freezing area... but not 20 degrees below zero. I have a segment on that in the Video about our batteries. I think it is after the Amp Hour segment.... the segments are time stamped in the vide description. But basically says what I said above.... some trips into freezing weather are fine but just not sitting outside in below freezing weather.

InTgr8r

@Antigravity Thanks for posting the vid.
One question I didn't see answered in the vid was about leaving the battery on charge.

Many of us are in the habit of leaving our cars plugged in with a CTEK or Battery Tender smart charger due to the vehicle being used infrequently.
Is there any issue doing the same with the Antigravity battery? (with Lithium charger/tender)

Antigravity

Not really necessary in the same sense of what you are normally used to with lead/acid. The chemistry make up is different in that it does not require the same constant top off maintain/float values a lead acid battery does, in addition, the natural discharge for lithium is extremely slower in comparison so our general advice is just to pop in on the charger occasionally based on how often it's driven and the existing parasitic draw that may exist...could be as little as once every 1-2 months depending on the set up and capacity you've chosen to go with but we'd rather have this then the continuous cycling which could over all shorten the life span. In addition you have the BMS and restart feature in place to protect the battery from ever getting over discharged.
Hopefully that helps but as always feel free to reach out with any other questions.
Best regards,
Chad
chad@antigravitybatteires.com

Combalecer

I'm having this same slight delay that you mentioned on my 2012.5 C2S when starting up. I bought the car 2 years ago (2018) with almost 80K miles and what looked like a fairly newer battery. Did the battery swap fix the delay on startup for you?

LexVan

Bump for SFernando.

Fullyield

Or for the price of going to a shop to recode the battery you can buy a Foxwell or iCarSoft and reprogram your battery yourself. Then, you still have the Foxwell/iCarSoft in your toolbox. I have a Durametric Pro model which is great, but it will not reprogram or register a new battery.