Washing and drying (MF towels)
#16
#18
OP: I put all the MF in the regular washing machine on sanitary cycle with Griots microfiber and foam pad cleaner and Tide free and gentle detergent. The detergent doesn't have added scent or dye. Then into the dryer, without a dryer sheet.
If you're really **** you can clean out the washing machine with Affresh on the tub clean cycle, would you have to do every so often for a frontloading machine anyways.
When regular fabrics and clothes are done separately this is never been a problem. As much as compressed air/blowers and coatings make exterior paint care easier, there's always the windows, the interior, and anything that needs unsticking or polishing so the mf needs cleaning.
If you're really **** you can clean out the washing machine with Affresh on the tub clean cycle, would you have to do every so often for a frontloading machine anyways.
When regular fabrics and clothes are done separately this is never been a problem. As much as compressed air/blowers and coatings make exterior paint care easier, there's always the windows, the interior, and anything that needs unsticking or polishing so the mf needs cleaning.
#19
Or buy them in bulk at Costco for the wheels/tires and throw them away when finished. Even if they aren't "the finest MF towels hand sewn in the Andes by virgins", they seem up to the task of wheels/tires for me.
I've been using a Worx leaf blower to dry the car after rinsing with CR Spotless. Lasts just around 10 minutes at Turbo with a fully charged battery.
I have an older MB type I never plug in anymore. And no worries about fumes or oil droplets with electric. You could buy 2 Worx units for less than the cost of MB:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/WG591-WORX-5...-/252108033561
And no cord to trip on or drag across something. Or get wet while using 110.
I've been using a Worx leaf blower to dry the car after rinsing with CR Spotless. Lasts just around 10 minutes at Turbo with a fully charged battery.
I have an older MB type I never plug in anymore. And no worries about fumes or oil droplets with electric. You could buy 2 Worx units for less than the cost of MB:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/WG591-WORX-5...-/252108033561
And no cord to trip on or drag across something. Or get wet while using 110.
#20
MF's only with other MF's. Use a non dye, non scented detergent (you don't even need to use a lot), NO fabric softener or bleach, hot water, and white vinegar on the last rinse cycle. Air dry.
Simple and works every time.
Simple and works every time.
#21
McKee's turbo dryer has done well for me...and no need for a 220V outlet either! Takes 10-12 minutes to blow the car dry. With wax or sealant it doesn't leave any water spots.
Cheers,
NF.
Cheers,
NF.
#25
Racer
Thread Starter
For the more expensive mf (for the paint work), I will keep maybe around 4-5 towels and just wash and dry them like I do now. I will try the detergent that some suggested.
I guess I do not need the wringer, washing machines, or whatever drier. These saves me up maybe around $500 or so. Imagine how many mf towels I can get with that
PF
#26
I just have a bunch and do a seperate load of laundry when I get enough. I suppose logically it would make as much sense to throw them away but this way I don't feel bad when I just wipe like one drop of water with one and throw in the dirty pile. If I were throwing them away I would probably keep using them dirtier than I should instead of just grabbing a new one.
#27
Rennlist Member
This may prove an unpopular suggestion, but I gave up on MF towels a long time ago—after hearing John Paterek agree with my gut feeling: 100% cotton > anything synthetic.
Since then, I save old plain t-shirts and cut them up for polishing (though I have learned to hire someone better than me for any real corrective work) and then use old 100% cotton white bath towels to dry painted surfaces—but do it a bit differently. Basically, nothing dry is ever rubbed across my paint. The towel is laid across a surface, and then (without the towel moving) a hand sweeps across the towel to bring up all of the drops into the towel. Usually takes one or two towels to get the car dry, but I do tend to "blow dry" it by taking it for quick run before drying it. Only downside to the practice is the wheels get a bit dirty again. Upside is NONE of those "spider web" scratches, which were driving me crazy. I wondered if I could come up with a way to dry the car without rubbing anything across the paint. Several years and several cars later, it has avoided those fine scratches to the point that you look at the sun and it's simply a yellow orb in the paint. I've seen it do that for up to three years at a time, only being violated after a dealer washed the car despite being told not to...
YMMV!
Since then, I save old plain t-shirts and cut them up for polishing (though I have learned to hire someone better than me for any real corrective work) and then use old 100% cotton white bath towels to dry painted surfaces—but do it a bit differently. Basically, nothing dry is ever rubbed across my paint. The towel is laid across a surface, and then (without the towel moving) a hand sweeps across the towel to bring up all of the drops into the towel. Usually takes one or two towels to get the car dry, but I do tend to "blow dry" it by taking it for quick run before drying it. Only downside to the practice is the wheels get a bit dirty again. Upside is NONE of those "spider web" scratches, which were driving me crazy. I wondered if I could come up with a way to dry the car without rubbing anything across the paint. Several years and several cars later, it has avoided those fine scratches to the point that you look at the sun and it's simply a yellow orb in the paint. I've seen it do that for up to three years at a time, only being violated after a dealer washed the car despite being told not to...
YMMV!
#29
Instructor
After being washed countless times, they are soft and holding up really well.
- Mike
#30
Instructor