Hardwiring Radar Detector 991.2 GTS
#1
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Hardwiring Radar Detector 991.2 GTS
Hello all,
Need some help. I followed this thread below to hardwire a Valentine radar detector but can't get power. Upon inspection of the vacant fuse port - or all of the vacant ports for that matter, there isn't power to any of them. So evidently on the passenger side Porsche doesn't give you excess accessory power. Thoughts?
https://rennlist.com/forums/991-gt3-...n-991-gt3.html
Also I know about Waze and how radar detectors don't work etc etc. Really looking for electrical help on this one. Many thanks in advance.
Need some help. I followed this thread below to hardwire a Valentine radar detector but can't get power. Upon inspection of the vacant fuse port - or all of the vacant ports for that matter, there isn't power to any of them. So evidently on the passenger side Porsche doesn't give you excess accessory power. Thoughts?
https://rennlist.com/forums/991-gt3-...n-991-gt3.html
Also I know about Waze and how radar detectors don't work etc etc. Really looking for electrical help on this one. Many thanks in advance.
#2
Racer
You probably thought of this but were those switched fuses? If so, you have to turn on your ignition to get power to them. An alternative would be to use the rear view mirror as a power source. This looks like a pretty clean install. See here: https://rennlist.com/forums/991/1002...-detector.html
#3
Nordschleife Master
Why don't you use an add a fuse and pair it with the radio fuse. Also, a lot of issues arise because the ground in not connected properly - sometimes what looks like a good ground screw is actually plastic and not metal. Also, are you using a voltmeter to test if there is in fact power? If there is power, the ground is usually the problem.
#4
Three Wheelin'
Just wired my detector up last weekend. Use the spare switched circuit in the passenger side fuse panel (see pic) along with a fuse tap, ground it on one of the nuts behind the panel, and viola! works like a charm.
12v Fuse Tap
Spare switched circuit
By the way, I followed the instructions in the thread you provided in your original post as far as where to tap into for power and ground, however all that stuff about removing the weather stripping is un-necessary. I ran the wire under the front of the headliner and over to the a-pillar, and then used a plastic trim tool to gently push the wire under the pillar trim on the windshield side, and then pressed the wire inside the crevice between the pillar cover and the dash, all the way to side of the glove box, and then under the carpet into the fuse panel. Super easy, and all the wiring is 100% hidden.
Originally I bought a mirror tap to hard wire with, but that damn thing was impossible to install. There just inst enough room to get the wiring harness for the mirror out from under the headliner without removing the headliner itself or breaking clips. After an hour of fighting with it, and many many curse words, I gave up and ran wiring to the fuse panel.
12v Fuse Tap
Spare switched circuit
By the way, I followed the instructions in the thread you provided in your original post as far as where to tap into for power and ground, however all that stuff about removing the weather stripping is un-necessary. I ran the wire under the front of the headliner and over to the a-pillar, and then used a plastic trim tool to gently push the wire under the pillar trim on the windshield side, and then pressed the wire inside the crevice between the pillar cover and the dash, all the way to side of the glove box, and then under the carpet into the fuse panel. Super easy, and all the wiring is 100% hidden.
Originally I bought a mirror tap to hard wire with, but that damn thing was impossible to install. There just inst enough room to get the wiring harness for the mirror out from under the headliner without removing the headliner itself or breaking clips. After an hour of fighting with it, and many many curse words, I gave up and ran wiring to the fuse panel.
Last edited by Code; 08-25-2017 at 01:27 PM.
#5
Thanks for this information Code. I'm planning do this exactly as you described in the coming days. I just received the Blendmount and the HardTap, ordered the Add a Fuse from Amazon rather than driving around to find one...
#6
Three Wheelin'
No sweat, and good luck with the install. Pls let us know how it turns out!
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#9
So I installed the Blendmount on the mirror, ran the Hardtap wire from the mirror across the headliner, down the A pillar, then between the dashboard and the right side trim pieces and under the dash to the passenger side footwell. Certain parts of the run required a bit of pressure with the plastic trim tool to tuck the wire in, but overall not too bad. I had ordered the Radarmount Add a Fuse from Amazon and Prime offered Sunday delivery...perfect! When I finished running the wire, as if by magic the mailman delivered the Add a Fuse just as I finished running the wire. Seemed too perfect, and it was! I ordered the wrong size - I ordered the Mini by accident. As it turns out, the Standard size on Amazon is $43.99 while all the others are $8.99. Inexplicable. So I just ordered it direct from Radarmount. I am using that one because the plugs just match up with the Hardtap plug. I'll just be patient wait for it to arrive later this week.
Now for a question: does anyone already know of another fuse location that's usable other than D2? My D2 slot isn't empty (as it seems to be on others). I suppose I could just use the Add a Fuse and put both the existing equipment and the radar on the same circuit, but I'm not sure if the ECU is monitoring the draw on that circuit and might generate a fault. I presume it's preferable to use another blank fuse location. Can any of the experts weigh in on this?
Thanks!
Now for a question: does anyone already know of another fuse location that's usable other than D2? My D2 slot isn't empty (as it seems to be on others). I suppose I could just use the Add a Fuse and put both the existing equipment and the radar on the same circuit, but I'm not sure if the ECU is monitoring the draw on that circuit and might generate a fault. I presume it's preferable to use another blank fuse location. Can any of the experts weigh in on this?
Thanks!
#10
Rennlist Member
Just choose a non-essential 5 amp slot. D6, right seat ventilation would be a good choice. D2 is the all wheel drive slot.
I wired mine on the drivers side fuse panel and used the garage door opener (which I never use) slot.
I wired mine on the drivers side fuse panel and used the garage door opener (which I never use) slot.
#11
Thank you Norsk! I will give that a try when the correct size Add a Fuse arrives in the next few days. I'm at a point where I just have to plug in the Add a Fuse and connect it to the Hardtap wire and I should be done. I've already grounded the other wire and put things back together. I'll be back to confirm.
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Wolpertinger (02-01-2020)
#14
I got the correct Standard Size Add a Fuse from RadarMount today. I plugged it into the D6 slot which was empty (seat ventilation maybe?), connected the male end of the HardTap wire, all of which took 30 seconds. I started the car, turned on the radar detector and voila! Power! And it turned off immediately when I turned the key off. Super happy with this project - thanks to all for the help and input!
#15
Nordschleife Master
I got the correct Standard Size Add a Fuse from RadarMount today. I plugged it into the D6 slot which was empty (seat ventilation maybe?), connected the male end of the HardTap wire, all of which took 30 seconds. I started the car, turned on the radar detector and voila! Power! And it turned off immediately when I turned the key off. Super happy with this project - thanks to all for the help and input!