Anyone here using their rear-view mirror as a power source for a radar detector
#1
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Anyone here using their rear-view mirror as a power source for a radar detector
Picked up a new radar detector, and until I have the $ to do a stealth install and add jammers I want to use a Blend mount on the rear view mirror, and was hoping I could use a RJ-11 plug to tap into the power source in the mirror as opposed to running wires all the way down to the fuse box. Is there anyone here that has used a RJ-11 on their car? and if so what was the process like installing that plug?
Here is a link to the RJ-ll connector in question.
https://store.blendmount.com/mirrort...aps-p3525.aspx
Thanks for looking!
Here is a link to the RJ-ll connector in question.
https://store.blendmount.com/mirrort...aps-p3525.aspx
Thanks for looking!
#2
Nordschleife Master
Here are 2 links that can hopefully help. You have to be somewhat of a contortionist to use the mirror tap as there is little room to work - or have small hands. The other link is with an add a fuse.
https://rennlist.com/forums/991-gt3-...n-991-gt3.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/991/8047...re-of-dog.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/991-gt3-...n-991-gt3.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/991/8047...re-of-dog.html
#3
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Here are 2 links that can hopefully help. You have to be somewhat of a contortionist to use the mirror tap as there is little room to work - or have small hands. The other link is with an add a fuse.
https://rennlist.com/forums/991-gt3-...n-991-gt3.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/991/8047...re-of-dog.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/991-gt3-...n-991-gt3.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/991/8047...re-of-dog.html
#4
Addict
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I did not find the distance from the Blendmount to the fusebox inconvenient. I had to order a second Blendmount with a longer stalk so I could get my hands in to adjust the Max 360. Now I am unable to affix my disabled sticker to the mirror since the Blendmount occupies everything. I have compensated with a drop-down from my sun visor. I have had no complaints from the police......yet. All is well.
#5
Rennlist Member
Tried to install the wiretap this weekend. It was impossible no room to work and not worth the effort. Ditched the whole concept and went back to wire to the fuse block with a fuse tap. The most frustrating failure I have had working on my cars in years. Lucky I didn't tear out the whole mirror, blendmount and radar detector in a fit of frustration .
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#8
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Tried to install the wiretap this weekend. It was impossible no room to work and not worth the effort. Ditched the whole concept and went back to wire to the fuse block with a fuse tap. The most frustrating failure I have had working on my cars in years. Lucky I didn't tear out the whole mirror, blendmount and radar detector in a fit of frustration .
Nothing. I want the detector mounted high on the windshield, therefore the OEM cord would be in the way.
#9
Burning Brakes
Consider this from Escort Radar for the 9500ci:
"RE: Porsche (recent models of Cayenne, 911 and Panamera)
The ONLY source of power that is acceptable on recent models is located in one of the terminals on the BOTTOM row of the interior driver side fuse block. If the installer pulls off the fuse block and "untwists" the wire harness and removes some of the wrapping, they will notice that there is a black approx 12 gauge wire that runs right up the center. This is connected directly to the bottom row of terminals (usually a few are used and a couple are open). For the best connection, we recommend that the power wire is soldered directly to the back of an open terminal and then insulated as necessary. Using a fuse tap is not recommended due to the possibility of an intermittent connection.
All other 12V lines on these vehicles are run through the "Can-Bus" and are computer controlled. The voltage and current are variable and not stable for powering the Passport custom installed system."
"RE: Porsche (recent models of Cayenne, 911 and Panamera)
The ONLY source of power that is acceptable on recent models is located in one of the terminals on the BOTTOM row of the interior driver side fuse block. If the installer pulls off the fuse block and "untwists" the wire harness and removes some of the wrapping, they will notice that there is a black approx 12 gauge wire that runs right up the center. This is connected directly to the bottom row of terminals (usually a few are used and a couple are open). For the best connection, we recommend that the power wire is soldered directly to the back of an open terminal and then insulated as necessary. Using a fuse tap is not recommended due to the possibility of an intermittent connection.
All other 12V lines on these vehicles are run through the "Can-Bus" and are computer controlled. The voltage and current are variable and not stable for powering the Passport custom installed system."
#10
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Consider this from Escort Radar for the 9500ci:
"RE: Porsche (recent models of Cayenne, 911 and Panamera)
The ONLY source of power that is acceptable on recent models is located in one of the terminals on the BOTTOM row of the interior driver side fuse block. If the installer pulls off the fuse block and "untwists" the wire harness and removes some of the wrapping, they will notice that there is a black approx 12 gauge wire that runs right up the center. This is connected directly to the bottom row of terminals (usually a few are used and a couple are open). For the best connection, we recommend that the power wire is soldered directly to the back of an open terminal and then insulated as necessary. Using a fuse tap is not recommended due to the possibility of an intermittent connection.
All other 12V lines on these vehicles are run through the "Can-Bus" and are computer controlled. The voltage and current are variable and not stable for powering the Passport custom installed system."
"RE: Porsche (recent models of Cayenne, 911 and Panamera)
The ONLY source of power that is acceptable on recent models is located in one of the terminals on the BOTTOM row of the interior driver side fuse block. If the installer pulls off the fuse block and "untwists" the wire harness and removes some of the wrapping, they will notice that there is a black approx 12 gauge wire that runs right up the center. This is connected directly to the bottom row of terminals (usually a few are used and a couple are open). For the best connection, we recommend that the power wire is soldered directly to the back of an open terminal and then insulated as necessary. Using a fuse tap is not recommended due to the possibility of an intermittent connection.
All other 12V lines on these vehicles are run through the "Can-Bus" and are computer controlled. The voltage and current are variable and not stable for powering the Passport custom installed system."
#11
Burning Brakes
Note that this info is really only for the installed 9500ci, but it's still a good idea to use the specified power source rather than one that is controlled by the CAN-bus.
Evidently, a number of 9500ci owners are complaining about voltage fluctuations that cause the unit to think a wire has come loose. This results in an annoying beep and "check receiver wiring" message. Not clear to me whether the radar/lidar detector still functions when this message is being displayed, but mostly I don't bother to find out because I would turn off the unit to stop the annoying beeps. The solution is to install a voltage regulator in the line to the Escort. Not sure if that will also disable the detector's ability to detect loose wiring, but at least no more false loose wire warnings.
Evidently, a number of 9500ci owners are complaining about voltage fluctuations that cause the unit to think a wire has come loose. This results in an annoying beep and "check receiver wiring" message. Not clear to me whether the radar/lidar detector still functions when this message is being displayed, but mostly I don't bother to find out because I would turn off the unit to stop the annoying beeps. The solution is to install a voltage regulator in the line to the Escort. Not sure if that will also disable the detector's ability to detect loose wiring, but at least no more false loose wire warnings.
#12
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Quick update: Wired my detector up last weekend. I bought a mirror tap from blend mount to hard wire with, but that damn thing was impossible to install. Just as others stated, there isn't enough room to get the wiring harness for the mirror out from under the headliner without removing the headliner itself or breaking clips. After an hour of fighting with it, and many many curse words, I gave up and ran wiring to the fuse panel. Used the spare switched circuit in the passenger side fuse panel along with a fuse tap, grounded it on one of the nuts behind the panel, and viola! works like a charm.
12v Fuse Tap
By the way, I followed the instructions here: https://rennlist.com/forums/991-gt3-...n-991-gt3.html , but only for where to tap into for power and ground. All that stuff about removing the weather stripping to run the wire to the panel is un-necessary. I ran the wire under the front of the headliner and over to the a-pillar, and then used a plastic trim tool to gently push the wire under the pillar trim on the windshield side, and then pressed the wire inside the crevice between the pillar cover and the dash, all the way to the side of the glove box, and then under the carpet and into the fuse panel. Super easy, and all the wiring is 100% hidden.
Here is the final product. Using the section cup for now until I can order a blend mount. I took the picture on an angle by mistake, the detector is actually level.
12v Fuse Tap
By the way, I followed the instructions here: https://rennlist.com/forums/991-gt3-...n-991-gt3.html , but only for where to tap into for power and ground. All that stuff about removing the weather stripping to run the wire to the panel is un-necessary. I ran the wire under the front of the headliner and over to the a-pillar, and then used a plastic trim tool to gently push the wire under the pillar trim on the windshield side, and then pressed the wire inside the crevice between the pillar cover and the dash, all the way to the side of the glove box, and then under the carpet and into the fuse panel. Super easy, and all the wiring is 100% hidden.
Here is the final product. Using the section cup for now until I can order a blend mount. I took the picture on an angle by mistake, the detector is actually level.
#14
Rennlist Member
Edit: Sorry, I misread that last post... for some reason I thought you were looking for a grounding point. That is what I tried to answer below... I'll leave it in case it helps anyone else.
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Here is a photo from my recent 991.2 install, but this is essentially the same as the one I did on my 991.1. The green arrow is pointing to a ground point found under the side kick panel omg the driver's side. There is one similarly placed on your car. You can see I have a spade clip on a green wire attached to it.
To remove the kick panel, you have to pull the end of the panel closest to the floorboard towards the brake pedal to pop off the super velcro-like tabs that hold it place. You can see both of them near the ground nut, one in the dark above the nut and one in the light below it. Once those are released, the panel is removed by pivoting the bottom of the panel nearest the door towards the rear of the car to unlatch the bottom first, then the top is attached to the thin plastic strip to the left of the dash. You can unsnap it by pushing the kick panel towards the front away from the strip (the strip actually snaps into the kick panel). That is how I could best describe it, you'll follow it better once you try it.
Just FYI: In my case you see two wire taps, one for switched power and one for unswitched power, allowing my dashcam to automatically switch to and from parking mode. For a radar detector only one tap is needed... or you can just do the mirror tap discussed more in another thread.
----------------
Here is a photo from my recent 991.2 install, but this is essentially the same as the one I did on my 991.1. The green arrow is pointing to a ground point found under the side kick panel omg the driver's side. There is one similarly placed on your car. You can see I have a spade clip on a green wire attached to it.
To remove the kick panel, you have to pull the end of the panel closest to the floorboard towards the brake pedal to pop off the super velcro-like tabs that hold it place. You can see both of them near the ground nut, one in the dark above the nut and one in the light below it. Once those are released, the panel is removed by pivoting the bottom of the panel nearest the door towards the rear of the car to unlatch the bottom first, then the top is attached to the thin plastic strip to the left of the dash. You can unsnap it by pushing the kick panel towards the front away from the strip (the strip actually snaps into the kick panel). That is how I could best describe it, you'll follow it better once you try it.
Just FYI: In my case you see two wire taps, one for switched power and one for unswitched power, allowing my dashcam to automatically switch to and from parking mode. For a radar detector only one tap is needed... or you can just do the mirror tap discussed more in another thread.