Nacelle

Any Audi V10 plus love here?

Looking at all options...

d00d

The RWD LP 580-2 may be more fun at a similar price, and 143 lbs lighter;
R8 3,287 lb dry (brochure)
R8 plus 3,205 lb dry (brochure)
LP 610-4 3,135 lb dry (brochure)
LP 580-2 3,062 lb dry (brochure)

C.J. Ichiban

We have a new R8 v10+ in Fresno. 610HP For ~200k and no monkey business on service due to having plenty of Audi shops everywhere, for me it's a no brainer great buy.

70ish lbs between a Huracan and mechanically identical drivetrain...I'll save the money and get an R8 personally. Lambo owners get a stigma and most of the time it's justified with the exception of Kevin and some other nice Lambo guys I know locally...

Oh and Audi will let me spec an R8 in any color if someone puts down a deposit. Have PTS yellow and voodoo blue cars coming to Fresno store this year.

C.J. Ichiban

For guys getting ADM'd at 30-50k over for a regular GT3 you are better off with an awesome PTS spec 570 or R8 as a lease.

Some guys poo-poo leases (and depreciation on everything except a GT car) but if they ADM you at your friendly store:

1) you pay tax on full sales price
2) you cannot residualize or equitize the ADM so you have to pay more up front on a loan or lease (the full amount of ADM PLUS the down payment for the rest of the car)
3) secondary market will never care how bad you got plugged for ADM if you sell it, unless you flip right away and re-ADM it.

d00d

This!
Would like to see pictures when they come in.

C.J. Ichiban

Porsche has a formula called MRM and if your car is generally specced above the MRM number then you are all in up front dollar for dollar above it.


Possible Example:

911 GT3 MRM is 177

You spec it out for 185. Dealer charges you 30 over. Your price is 215. Taxes are 17k. Now your car cost is 232k. Since you're 38k over the MRM you pay the 38k before the equity coverage starts at all! So...

Your down payment in a lease will have to be 50-60k+

At that rate you are hosed and miss the whole point of a lease which is to prevent money from. burning up front.

So you buy it? You're a baller. Well...

Your down on a purchase will have to be 80k +.

It's no longer a ratio of % once you're 115+% of MSRP It goes up like taxes on a salary cap in the NBA. Banks do not honor loans for more than 108-115% of MSRP- usually it's more like 80-90% max of MSRP. So you have to come out of pocket up front the whole amount over that.

CAlexio

Very useful info. It seems relatively easy to keep this car around $170k... until pts and pccb come into play... then this MRM limit is smoked.

But even without ADM, a $180+ gt3 stops making sense as you're entering RS territory. Tough not to click those option boxes...!!

Maverick787

Agree, and don't leave out the 570S which comes more into play. My last GT3 clipped at 152K with no PCCB's.

chaosoul

I think CJ is just giving an example for the scenario. Actual MRM is 165k (which stands for Maximum Residualized MSRP)


At most excellent credit, you'll still have to pay upfront cap-reduction for anything above 115% of the car's MSRP. The car's MSRP can be over MRM, and they will still loan you the 115% of MSRP but just that anything over MRM will not be residualized. At 50% residual, the residual value of 165k MSRP GT3 is 82.5k, but if you built a car 180k, residual is still 82.5k, if you built a car 250k, residual is still 82.5k (unlike ridiculous BMW who people built 180k M6 at 60% residual, saying a 3 year 30k mile M6 will be worth 110k+, who is gonna pay for it?).


In California for a lease, you're only taxed for the cap reduction you pay for the lease upfront and the monthly payment. For example:


If your car's MSRP is 100k and dealer charge you 30k ADM, the maximum bank will loan you is 115k so for the 15k extra you'll have to pay as cap reduction, so you'll pay 7.5% of that 15k like $1000 (or whatever your local sales tax is). If your monthly payment come out to be $1500, then every month you pay 110$ of sales tax.

Nacelle

No can do CJ... unfortunately reside out of country. Thanks!

Raghu

Just keep your 991.1 GT3RS or GT4/Boxster Spyder (whatever you have). Put 30K (if you want to spend it) in upgrading the GT4/Boxster Spyder (IPD, headers, exhaust, CPU flash, suspension, anti-roll bar and five point harness, wheels and tires, brake-lines and pads and serious track lessons, SCCA license. Put 10 K in the GT3RS (may need anti-roll bar and five point harness), tires, wheels, brake pads. Almost everybody these days has paint protection already on the car anyhow. Install track recording equipment. Get out there and drive the car like there is no tomorrow. Maximize seat time and minimize driving errors and lap times. Save all the additional $50-60K while actually having fun instead of attending C&C to show off the new 991.2 GT3. Then wait for 991.2 GT3RS or GT4RS or Boxster GT4......

usctrojanGT3

This is great advice that I will take. I have two track toys that I'll focus on having fun with instead of worrying about when I'll get a .2GT3. In my mind I won't have the. At till mid to late 2018 anyhow.

C.J. Ichiban

The pressure some of you guys put on yourselves is mind boggling. There are so many amazing cars to drive.

Wait in line- but remember you're supposed to live your life in between. So, go to a movie. Do a racing school. Hell maybe donate 5,000 bucks to a charity. Pay down your house 25k. Buy something else and negotiate for it. Don't give it to pay ADM to a jerk dealer.

jlee504

very very well said.

Cheers

FORENN

This may not be popular (which feels weird saying, since we're on *the* 911R forum), but I'd take the R in a heartbeat. I have no interest in any auto tranny sports car and have never much liked Ferrari styling. People may be paying too much for Rs in the opinion of some, but it's a beautiful, highly capable machine by everything I can gather. As an aside, I recently received a letter from Porsche asking me how I was enjoying my 911R. Talk about pouring salt on the wound.