RE71-R for GT3?
#16
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Tirerack's info is spotty and not what I would call a safety guideline. I think you'll find that a XXX mm tire is not created equal in tread width, tire width, and sidewall across the brands or even the models within a brand. The main issue is making sure the bead is well seated and the tire is aired up properly (that's what fortifies the tire sidewall). That being said a 295 on a 12" is ok and the stock 305 is most certainly ok and safe. A 225 on a 10-11" wheels is getting sketchy although I know some NASA racers running those setups for qualifying.
Here is great read on tires if anyone is interested. https://www.amazon.com/Racing-High-P.../dp/0768012414
There's a section in the book that talks about wheel width to tire width and what it does to the tire contact patch. Good stuff
Here is great read on tires if anyone is interested. https://www.amazon.com/Racing-High-P.../dp/0768012414
There's a section in the book that talks about wheel width to tire width and what it does to the tire contact patch. Good stuff
#18
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Edit: as a side note my Spyder has four tracks days between COTA and TWS on its RE71Rs and I'm about half tread depth.
#19
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Originally Posted by Protocav
Mike,
Can you make any comparisons between the grip of these tires and NT-01's...knowing that you probably haven't had NT-01's on this car.
Chad
Can you make any comparisons between the grip of these tires and NT-01's...knowing that you probably haven't had NT-01's on this car.
Chad
Everything you need to know
#20
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I feel my alignment is good I did not use a pyrometer but I think my pressures may have been a little low. May have been able to get one or two more sessions out of the RE71R. I will try them again this weekend with a little more pressure.
#21
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Joe we just need the 295's and 305's.... RE 71R's
#22
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http://www.tirerack.com/tires/TireSe...earDiameter=17
Click on Specs for each tire model (295/30/20 will be separate at top of each list)
Michelin's website also lists 11.5" as the max for the OEM GT3 rear 305/30/20 tire (unfortunately, Bridgestone's site is blank for the 295):
http://www.michelinman.com/US/en/tir...tail-sku-table
Click on Right Arrow next to "More Data" to expand.
Don't think there is anything wrong with Tirerack's data with respect to rim widths, unless unavailable.
The one exception to the industry standard rim recommendations is Hoosier which recommends rims to be within +/- 0.5" of tread width:
http://www.hoosiertire.com/images/co...s/TCTR7_A7.pdf
"Wheel Widths
Wheel width dramatically affects wear and performance of the Hoosier P-Metric radial tires.
There is about a one inch window of optimum width. The trick is to figure out that window. A good rule of thumb to use for determining proper width
is to use the tread width of the tire. Measure the tread width. Plus or minus 1/2 inch from the tread dimension will indicate the proper rim sizing. It is
possible to use narrower wheels, but at a sacrifice to shoulder wear and cornering power."
Last edited by GrantG; 10-12-2016 at 02:20 AM.
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Grant, I get where you are coming from and what they post is called "CYA". If you go by Hoosiers mounting recommendations, I'm not sure you could actually mount a Hoosier. Checkout and read that book I posted. Specifically, the section on wheel and tire widths.
#24
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Hi Joe. Thanks for the update on these tires. Quick question, why did you go with stiff setting on your front bar in the first place? Did you notice any understeer with that sitting? Just curious. Mark
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Originally Posted by mqandil
Hi Joe. Thanks for the update on these tires. Quick question, why did you go with stiff setting on your front bar in the first place? Did you notice any understeer with that sitting? Just curious. Mark
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I did it because I had problems keeping the back end planted on corner exit and a stiff front bar helps with that. I then added stiffer springs up front to combat front tire wear, which introduced understeer on turn in, so I went back to the middle setting up front. Then the rear 295 re71r were put on and the back end got loose again. I'm chasing my tail, unfortunately
Front: -3 camber, slight toe-out, stock caster, medium bar
Rear: -2.5 camber, stock toe-in, stiff bar
I'd try -2.9 or -2.8 front and -2.6 rear if I were not too lazy/busy.
could you try plotting pivot angle relative to steering angle to see where the car understeers and where it oversteers? When I did that, I noticed that many of my oversteer events were a result of me fighting mild understeer and actually making car oversteer by that (often without realizing it). So I stiffened the rear bar and the car started to oversteer LESS. It also reduced front tire wear.
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could you try plotting pivot angle relative to steering angle to see where the car understeers and where it oversteers? When I did that, I noticed that many of my oversteer events were a result of me fighting mild understeer and actually making car oversteer by that (often without realizing it). So I stiffened the rear bar and the car started to oversteer LESS. It also reduced front tire wear.
I moved my front bar to stiff, and didn't notice that making understeer worse. If anything, front grip may have improved, and in general the front of the car feels more responsive, with better turn-in.
#28
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Originally Posted by MaxLTV
Joe, I do not understand why you are having these issues. My set up is fairly simple, and it works reasonably well with no real mods - just shims to get to the right camber and caster pucks to get caster back to stock levels. It's not ideal - entry oversteer/understeer balance is still tricky and rear tires wear on the outside a bit more than inside, but the tire wear is even, it's reasonably fast and fun to drive (oversteer is more fun than understeer).
Front: -3 camber, slight toe-out, stock caster, medium bar
Rear: -2.5 camber, stock toe-in, stiff bar
I'd try -2.9 or -2.8 front and -2.6 rear if I were not too lazy/busy.
could you try plotting pivot angle relative to steering angle to see where the car understeers and where it oversteers? When I did that, I noticed that many of my oversteer events were a result of me fighting mild understeer and actually making car oversteer by that (often without realizing it). So I stiffened the rear bar and the car started to oversteer LESS. It also reduced front tire wear.
Front: -3 camber, slight toe-out, stock caster, medium bar
Rear: -2.5 camber, stock toe-in, stiff bar
I'd try -2.9 or -2.8 front and -2.6 rear if I were not too lazy/busy.
could you try plotting pivot angle relative to steering angle to see where the car understeers and where it oversteers? When I did that, I noticed that many of my oversteer events were a result of me fighting mild understeer and actually making car oversteer by that (often without realizing it). So I stiffened the rear bar and the car started to oversteer LESS. It also reduced front tire wear.
#29
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Tirerack's info is spotty and not what I would call a safety guideline. I think you'll find that a XXX mm tire is not created equal in tread width, tire width, and sidewall across the brands or even the models within a brand. The main issue is making sure the bead is well seated and the tire is aired up properly (that's what fortifies the tire sidewall). That being said a 295 on a 12" is ok and the stock 305 is most certainly ok and safe. A 225 on a 10-11" wheels is getting sketchy although I know some NASA racers running those setups for qualifying.
Here is great read on tires if anyone is interested. https://www.amazon.com/Racing-High-P.../dp/0768012414
There's a section in the book that talks about wheel width to tire width and what it does to the tire contact patch. Good stuff
Here is great read on tires if anyone is interested. https://www.amazon.com/Racing-High-P.../dp/0768012414
There's a section in the book that talks about wheel width to tire width and what it does to the tire contact patch. Good stuff
This is a MUST-READ to better understand the aspects of a tire and how to properly size them for a given rim width:
http://www.motoiq.com/MagazineArticl...RFORMANCE.aspx
0.02
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Max, the only difference I have in mods from you is the front springs. It was my original setup that you are using. The springs were an experiment to see if I could get the front tires to wear slower and even up with the rear. It didn't work. The car was fine before the the switch to 295 rear. Now I'm trying to make the necessary adjustments to make the 295 work.
I really wish 71R tires would work well - it would make this car a track bargain, seeing how other maintenance items are already cheaper than they were for E90 M3.
Max