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As an update - spoke with the lead service tech at a large, reputable dealer with significant GT car allocation. For 991.2 GT3 he recommended 24 ft. lb. for new plugs and 22 ft. lb. if you're reusing. Hope this helps, and others please chime in if you've heard differently.
As an update - spoke with the lead service tech at a large, reputable dealer with significant GT car allocation. For 991.2 GT3 he recommended 24 ft. lb. for new plugs and 22 ft. lb. if you're reusing. Hope this helps, and others please chime in if you've heard differently.
Appreciate the info. Would be nice if someone could post the page from the workshop manual - this should be conclusive...
As an update - spoke with the lead service tech at a large, reputable dealer with significant GT car allocation. For 991.2 GT3 he recommended 24 ft. lb. for new plugs and 22 ft. lb. if you're reusing. Hope this helps, and others please chime in if you've heard differently.
MBLocal is correct here is official info for 2018 (991.2) GT3:
No Anti-Seize - just dry...
The reinstallation torque is lower because the crush washer is already crushed (when removing a plug for visual examination and replacing the same plug).
BTW, the Hazet 4766-2 spark plug socket recommended above is expensive but works great (has little fingers that hold on to the plug).
MBLocal is correct here is official info for 2018 (991.2) GT3:
No Anti-Seize - just dry...
The reinstallation torque is lower because the crush washer is already crushed (when removing a plug for visual examination and replacing the same plug).
BTW, the Hazet 4766-2 spark plug socket recommended above is expensive but works great (has little fingers that hold on to the plug).
Pardon me if it has already been asked (I don't believe it has), but when the car is up on stands and with the wheels off, are any of the plugs tough to access?
Not that I'm an incompetent mechanic, BUT, spark plugs are a weird one if you're forced to figure out threading while operating in tight areas and if it's saving a few hundred bucks, then I prefer to offload that risk to the dealer.
From everything I've seen and read, they're all rather easy to get to. If so, awesome, as it would be a DIY I would be inclined to do rather frequently rather than hold off for the dealer.
Pardon me if it has already been asked (I don't believe it has), but when the car is up on stands and with the wheels off, are any of the plugs tough to access?
Not that I'm an incompetent mechanic, BUT, spark plugs are a weird one if you're forced to figure out threading while operating in tight areas and if it's saving a few hundred bucks, then I prefer to offload that risk to the dealer.
From everything I've seen and read, they're all rather easy to get to. If so, awesome, as it would be a DIY I would be inclined to do rather frequently rather than hold off for the dealer.
It’s pretty easy - you have to remove one sensor and I always fumble with the coil electrical connectors a bit (unlatching them). But access overall is very good.
Below is a Porsche document that my local dealer gave me with regards to when you should replace your plugs. It does not indicate if they should be changed sooner under track conditions. For the person who asked about access, I recently had my car on a lift, and the access is very good. There's a Youtube video on Obsessed Garage about changing plugs in a GT3 as well:
Changed out the spark plugs yesterday - very straightforward, as others have said. One trick for the Bilstein connector blocking plug 3 - insert a thin 90 degree pick (I have a really crappy set I ordered from Amazon that looks like a dental pick set) into the top of the connector and it will pop the tab up and allow you to pull it off. For the plugs themselves, I used the Hazet tool that others have mentioned, along with a couple 3/8 extensions. I had no problem getting a Precision Instruments split beam torque wrench (3/8 inch, 10-50 ft. lb.) in there for torquing everything down properly - bought it specifically for spark plugs / oil changes on 991.2 GT3, in case that's helpful to others who may be looking for a torque wrench for this job. I didn't trust my higher range torque wrenches for this job.
Changed out the spark plugs yesterday - very straightforward, as others have said. One trick for the Bilstein connector blocking plug 3 - insert a thin 90 degree pick (I have a really crappy set I ordered from Amazon that looks like a dental pick set) into the top of the connector and it will pop the tab up and allow you to pull it off. For the plugs themselves, I used the Hazet tool that others have mentioned, along with a couple 3/8 extensions. I had no problem getting a Precision Instruments split beam torque wrench (3/8 inch, 10-50 ft. lb.) in there for torquing everything down properly - bought it specifically for spark plugs / oil changes on 991.2 GT3, in case that's helpful to others who may be looking for a torque wrench for this job. I didn't trust my higher range torque wrenches for this job.
Nice going - what technique did you find best for disconnecting the electrical connectors on the coils?
12-11-2019, 12:42 PM
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