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Finally got around to checking ride heights. Fronts were at 120mm vs 115 spec and rears were at 265mm vs 275mm. Car has never felt as settled as my old RS so going in for a proper alignment next week. Will set correct ride heights and use Tarkcar's latest numbers and see what happens.
My 15,200 mile Labstone oil report:
Last oil change 10 track days and 2275 miles ago I drove the car as hard as I could every track day, some days where 80F plus, all at Sebring.
Usually I never let oil changes go beyond 6 track days but I wanted to see the numbers after more track days and all looks OK
In between 13,000-15,275 I only added oil once; 150cc because the screen said to add oil.
Other times it has shown random overfill warnings no where near the oil change or oil added.
The overfill warnings go away after opening / closing the deck lid. So I assume it has been completely full all times.
The car is currently at 16,000 and I have not added any oil, but the last 750 miles were all street miles.
Brake pads:
Also, I simply forgot to bed the Race Technologies RE 10 pads and the wear went up to only 7/8 track days before they were thin. The first session got black flagged after 1 lap, so I thought they were more or less bedded. It could also be that I braked a little harder and longer trying to find the last half second at Sebring..
I replaced the pads with about 2mm left on the thinnest end. It did not affect brake performance, so they are good till the end but I will go back to buy pre-bedded.
I found the last bit of time by braking later and coming off the brake later dragging the brakes a bit further into the corner. Previously I was too focused on going for throttle and in a few corners it crated under steer towards the Apex. I eliminated it and got my V min up.
Rotors;
Now on the 3rd set of front OEM rotors, again after 20 days. See photo's below. Would have lasted another few days but I was going to Sebring 6 straight days and didn't want to risk having to change rotors so I replaced them. Currently at 46 track days total. Rear OEM rotors still original, will replace at 60 days with the fronts.
The tires:
MPSC2 get slower after the 3rd day.
With this setup and my driving now I cord the font and rears about even.
The fronts could go another couple of days, so if I flip fronts I would say 6 days out of the fronts but the last 2 will be slower by about a second or two per lap. If I want to be sure I can finish day 4, I should flip the rears after 2 days. I've corded a few after just 3 days.
Annoyance:
The only thing that really annoys me is that the car wont "take Circuit PSI Setting" under 26 PSI, so that means; Go out at 22-24PSI, take a couple of laps and come in to reset PSI.
If not and you start at 26PSI you end up over 34PSI and the tires seem to melt / lose grip above it. Note that they overheat on lap 5/6 and get slower regardless of PSI.
If you go out under 26PSI and don't come in to reset the system during a pit stop the PSI warnings keep popping up, filling the screen with red, its distracting to have to click it away.
Setup:
No change.
Porsche recommended ride height (Per July's 15 page bulletin) minus one turn front and rear, very slight rubbing front and rear, so if you don't turn it down that last mm there really should not be any rubbing.
Camber front and rear -2.
Toe front zero and 1.5mm in rear each side.
Sway / roll bars full stiff front and rear.
Aero:
Front fender grills removed.
Does not affect dirt on the side of the car or anything coming through hitting the car. No black marks or anything due to removal. no problem in Monsoon rain driving home either.
Rear wing setting is as delivered but added Dundon Gurney flap. It didn't seem to affect top speed but hard to tell in varying temperatures. Highest GPS speed at Sebring is 150MPH, maybe at Daytona the difference would be more noticeable.
Good report all around, especially the oil - impressive and good to hear.
I had my car's ride set to the July 2016 bulletin along with the spacer/bump stop. Did you have your wheel arches rolled as specified in the bulletin? I did not hit at Sebring but I am not 1 turn down from and rear and I don't go as fast as you. Just as soon not have the arches rolled if I don't need to.
Such a fantastic report. Had to keep reading the wear of rear rotors. After 2 years, 9000 km of which about 4000 on track I changed my fronts and planned to change rears. Mechanic advised me against it. Your experience seems to substantiate this. Overall my consumable costs are well below my 997GT3, which is fantastic as that is the one thing I had worried about when getting the RS. I just need to find a way now to reduce the cording on left rear.
Here's my Blackstone history. You can see the metals coming down as the engine breaks in (look at the Aluminum). It's interesting that your viscosity "Values Should be" is blank while mine are filled in.
On the SUS Viscosity @210 degrees, what do you consider too low?
Also, on bedding pads, if you are using the same brand/model pad you are replacing, how much of a need is there to bed them in? Isn't a layer of pad material already on a previously used rotor? I still bed them, but tend to be less stringent when putting the same pads on an existing rotor?
Good report all around, especially the oil - impressive and good to hear.
I had my car's ride set to the July 2016 bulletin along with the spacer/bump stop. Did you have your wheel arches rolled as specified in the bulletin? I did not hit at Sebring but I am not 1 turn down from and rear and I don't go as fast as you. Just as soon not have the arches rolled if I don't need to.
I did everything but did not roll fenders. Not needed at recommended ride height but it touches. Barely but touches with new rear tires.
Originally Posted by Mika911
Such a fantastic report. Had to keep reading the wear of rear rotors. After 2 years, 9000 km of which about 4000 on track I changed my fronts and planned to change rears. Mechanic advised me against it. Your experience seems to substantiate this. Overall my consumable costs are well below my 997GT3, which is fantastic as that is the one thing I had worried about when getting the RS. I just need to find a way now to reduce the cording on left rear.
consumables last much better than on 997.
Originally Posted by signes
Great data and good looking oil analysis.
Anybody ever ask a P tech if they can adjust the bottom end of the TPMS range in PIWIS?
We looked but have t been able to yet.
Originally Posted by Joe731
Hey Peter,
Here's my Blackstone history. You can see the metals coming down as the engine breaks in (look at the Aluminum). It's interesting that your viscosity "Values Should be" is blank while mine are filled in.
On the SUS Viscosity @210 degrees, what do you consider too low?
Also, on bedding pads, if you are using the same brand/model pad you are replacing, how much of a need is there to bed them in? Isn't a layer of pad material already on a previously used rotor? I still bed them, but tend to be less stringent when putting the same pads on an existing rotor?
I'll ask Blackstone.
I'm not sure about what to be comfortable with. I rely on experts on these pages and Blackstone. If they are happy, I'm happy.
I've been on same Race Technologies RE10 pads. I think it's material transfer but also that the pads last better after gassing them and then have them cold for 24H.. not an expert, I'm sure others will check in
^Right on! It's possible that going fast could be preventative medicine for the RS!
Well so far it seems to be very happy with the hammer down after 3 starts and ever since. I am super careful to not lug or rev the engine until temps are 175F.
And I always try to cool the car down gently with a cool down lap and 5 mile cruise to the gas station and back.
Even driving home the last 5 minutes are low RPM.
03-04-2017, 06:52 PM
