Setup numbers RS
10-04-2016, 08:41 AM
#226
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Any change in camber creates a change in caster. Taking caster back to stock should address most of your rubbing issues. Believe stock is 9 or thereabouts.
10-04-2016, 04:06 PM
#227
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Peter and others:
What have you done to your set up to prevent the front liner from rubbing? I had complete wear thru of the front right liner in one session! I did the full bulletin except rolling of the rear fenders. I have 2.5 of camber up front with 0 toe. Ride height is what the bulletin recommends.
My car was delivered the end of April. Not sure if there are updated liners? Are they replaced under warranty?
What have you done to your set up to prevent the front liner from rubbing? I had complete wear thru of the front right liner in one session! I did the full bulletin except rolling of the rear fenders. I have 2.5 of camber up front with 0 toe. Ride height is what the bulletin recommends.
My car was delivered the end of April. Not sure if there are updated liners? Are they replaced under warranty?
10-04-2016, 04:24 PM
#228
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Peter and others:
What have you done to your set up to prevent the front liner from rubbing? I had complete wear thru of the front right liner in one session! I did the full bulletin except rolling of the rear fenders. I have 2.5 of camber up front with 0 toe. Ride height is what the bulletin recommends.
My car was delivered the end of April. Not sure if there are updated liners? Are they replaced under warranty?
What have you done to your set up to prevent the front liner from rubbing? I had complete wear thru of the front right liner in one session! I did the full bulletin except rolling of the rear fenders. I have 2.5 of camber up front with 0 toe. Ride height is what the bulletin recommends.
My car was delivered the end of April. Not sure if there are updated liners? Are they replaced under warranty?
If you're still getting rubbing after the above it might be time to explore uprated springs such as BBi's spring package, which adds about 20% stiffness over stock front springs.
10-04-2016, 04:51 PM
#229
See previous post. Adding negative camber without adjusting caster results in a caster increase, which means a wheelbase increase (front wheel moves forward incrementally). Restoring factory caster should address most if not all of the rubbing taking place on the leading edge of your front fender liner. Beyond that you can also check to make sure ride height is consistent with updated factory bulletin specs (posted near the beginning of this thread).
If you're still getting rubbing after the above it might be time to explore uprated springs such as BBi's spring package, which adds about 20% stiffness over stock front springs.
If you're still getting rubbing after the above it might be time to explore uprated springs such as BBi's spring package, which adds about 20% stiffness over stock front springs.
10-04-2016, 05:03 PM
#230
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Either will work but I personally prefer adjustable thrust arms over pucks. Thrust arms are quicker and easier to adjust IMO and less likely to come out of adjustment over time. Either one will do the job but doing both is redundant.
10-04-2016, 05:56 PM
#231
Thrust arms it is. Any issues with caster in the rear when dialing in more camber?
10-04-2016, 07:12 PM
#233
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I am using Forgeline 19s all around with Hoosier R7. No rubbing issue and yes I had added negative camber. What a treat on the track! For Trackcar - easy 1:44s on Tremblant with a passenger and no heroics!
10-04-2016, 07:35 PM
#234
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You might be right and maybe even less camber than the standard GT3. My GT3 wanted more camber in the rear than the front (-3F/-3.2R). I would have went square if I had a caster solution. A little understeery in the faster sections for me. The front sway was at the medium setting and rear at full stiff. Next time I'll likely go full soft in the front. A pleasant surprise was the Dunlops even wear at the alignment above.
10-04-2016, 08:06 PM
#235
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Rear is no touch and the car seems to like this Porsche recommended rake.
I'm sure you posted before but as more and more RS's head to the track I'm sure this will be the formula to work the setup around.. for now enjoying the no fuss, drive to the track, drive to work setup on 21".
1:44 sounds about right if there were no track changes since the summer of 2010 (Damn I need to get my *** back the). Looked back and it was 1:48/9 in 3.8 RS. 2 seconds R7 over Toyo RA1 and the rest is PDK RWS 200cc and down force.. And I guess there are a couple seconds there if you do try hard..
Why would I want to run a stock alignment?
You might be right and maybe even less camber than the standard GT3. My GT3 wanted more camber in the rear than the front (-3F/-3.2R). I would have went square if I had a caster solution. A little understeery in the faster sections for me. The front sway was at the medium setting and rear at full stiff. Next time I'll likely go full soft in the front. A pleasant surprise was the Dunlops even wear at the alignment above.
You might be right and maybe even less camber than the standard GT3. My GT3 wanted more camber in the rear than the front (-3F/-3.2R). I would have went square if I had a caster solution. A little understeery in the faster sections for me. The front sway was at the medium setting and rear at full stiff. Next time I'll likely go full soft in the front. A pleasant surprise was the Dunlops even wear at the alignment above.
Others have said that they will try front bar full stiff as well. It could work!
It may be the Dunlops, my rear Dunlops wear was great but I killed the front with less gripnfront then MPSC2, maybe that's why you want soft front, while others want to go stiffer.
I need to try..
For $15K ish, I think there is a 2:12 at Sebring with just R7 on 19", headers, side muffler delete and stiffer springs VS my 2:16 now.
Maybe one of these days I dust off the old trailer...
10-04-2016, 08:30 PM
#237
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Right.
No caster change beyond oem.
I think it's not adjustable?
I got new fender liners in Germany before we raised the car and did that other stuff.
Never touched the fender liners again.
No caster change beyond oem.
I think it's not adjustable?
I got new fender liners in Germany before we raised the car and did that other stuff.
Never touched the fender liners again.
10-04-2016, 08:30 PM
#238
Were tie/toe rods needed like they are on the GT4 to get more camber on the RS? Are shims needed to get the -2.5 to -3 of camber that I'm looking to get?
10-04-2016, 08:53 PM
#240
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