Battery Maintainer
#61
Nordschleife Master
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Here is my concern. I have a CTEK 7002 battery maintainer. I plug it in daily after every drive. I have been using the cigarette adaptor method. I have also been using the snowflake mode. After plugging it in it goes right to #1 "start mode", then quickly moves to #2 "bulk charging", shortly there after it goes to #3 "absorption charging", then eventually to #4 "pulse maintenance charging". Seems like in the last month or so when I check it several hours later, I have found it going to #0 "error mode". Just curious if there is something wrong with the charger or is this somewhat normal. Is it any better to use the clips and hook it up directly to the battery posts?
#62
Rennlist Member
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Here is my concern. I have a CTEK 7002 battery maintainer. I plug it in daily after every drive. I have been using the cigarette adaptor method. I have also been using the snowflake mode. After plugging it in it goes right to #1 "start mode", then quickly moves to #2 "bulk charging", shortly there after it goes to #3 "absorption charging", then eventually to #4 "pulse maintenance charging". Seems like in the last month or so when I check it several hours later, I have found it going to #0 "error mode". Just curious if there is something wrong with the charger or is this somewhat normal. Is it any better to use the clips and hook it up directly to the battery posts?
#63
Nordschleife Master
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Not quite sure what you're trying to say in those two comments.. Call me dumb, sorry.
#64
Rennlist Member
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The plug at the battery end with my Ctek unit ends in an orange and black plug, which mates to another identical but reverse plug that is attached to the terminals of the battery. The connection between these can become unreliable...
#65
Rennlist Member
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I am assuming the same plug arrangement exists between you version with cig lighter adaptor. If not then we have a bigger issue with the Ctek charger system.....
#66
Nordschleife Master
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^^^ Understand now what you're saying. Mine is the same "plug in" part with the cigarette adaptor. I did check to make sure that the connection is tight a few times and looks like it's tight. I also just tried and reset the error code using the main "mode" button. Will see what happens. Thanks Macca.
#67
Race Director
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Aldo, I haven't had the problem with my 7002 that you and Macca describe. It cycles through the lights every time I plug it in, just as you say, but has never returned to the fault position.
According to CTEK, there are two main situations where you will get the error light. The first is if the connection is reversed or shorted in the first place, in which case the light will blink. That's obviously not happening to you. The second is if charging is interrupted by the charger's analysis function, the charger overloads, or it is in Start position longer than the maximum time. This last one might happen, for example, if the charger became disconnected from the battery while plugged in and tried to restart. In these cases the fault light will glow steadily.
You could have a faulty charger, but my guess is that Mark is correct and your connection is unreliable. FWIW, I don't use the cig lighter. I've "permanently" affixed the connecting cable to the battery terminals and use the CTEK quick connector plug. It's interesting that Mark mentions the unreliability of this connector as I have two CTEKs and while one quick connector is very positive in it's connection the other one was more finicky and I had to modify it slightly to get it to click together.
Full disclosure: I'm using the 7002 with my Cayenne and a 3300 with my GT3 but I don't think that should make any difference. I've not had problems with either unit.
According to CTEK, there are two main situations where you will get the error light. The first is if the connection is reversed or shorted in the first place, in which case the light will blink. That's obviously not happening to you. The second is if charging is interrupted by the charger's analysis function, the charger overloads, or it is in Start position longer than the maximum time. This last one might happen, for example, if the charger became disconnected from the battery while plugged in and tried to restart. In these cases the fault light will glow steadily.
You could have a faulty charger, but my guess is that Mark is correct and your connection is unreliable. FWIW, I don't use the cig lighter. I've "permanently" affixed the connecting cable to the battery terminals and use the CTEK quick connector plug. It's interesting that Mark mentions the unreliability of this connector as I have two CTEKs and while one quick connector is very positive in it's connection the other one was more finicky and I had to modify it slightly to get it to click together.
Full disclosure: I'm using the 7002 with my Cayenne and a 3300 with my GT3 but I don't think that should make any difference. I've not had problems with either unit.
#68
Nordschleife Master
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^^^ I did check the connections yesterday and snugged them a bit more, although they seemed fine, as of now there has been no fault coming up. Everything is okay. Will more than likely buy the other adaptor and hook it up directly to the battery. If going that route and having to leave the frunk lid slightly open, you won't be able to set the alarm, or is there a way? Thanks Mike.
#69
Race Director
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^^^ I did check the connections yesterday and snugged them a bit more, although they seemed fine, as of now there has been no fault coming up. Everything is okay. Will more than likely buy the other adaptor and hook it up directly to the battery. If going that route and having to leave the frunk lid slightly open, you won't be able to set the alarm, or is there a way? Thanks Mike.
#70
Rennlist Member
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My dealer showed me the work around for this so I can now leave my trunk open rather than crush my cable. Also allows me to arm the alarm. You can get a flat bladed screwdriver and flick the latch over that usually locks the lid. It's really easy to do. The car then thinks the lid is closed and the trunk light goes off and alarm arms etc. when you actually need to close the lid you need to use the lid opening function in the carver on remote first to re open the latch. Ask your dealer to show you. It's a nifty trick they use on the new cars to stop the drunk light draining the battery when they have the lid up for extended periods of time.
If you had a power cut it could have caused an issue with your charger as per Mikes description above...
If you had a power cut it could have caused an issue with your charger as per Mikes description above...
#71
Nordschleife Master
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Aldo, as you suggest, if the frunk lid is left open when locking the car, the flashing light on the console indicates a fault in the system by flashing double speed for a while then flashes normally. I don't know if this means that the alarm system and immobilizer aren't working at all, or just that the frunk alone isn't being monitored. My house garage is always locked when I'm away so I typically don't alarm my cars when they're on the maintainer but it could be an issue for some people. The only other way I can think of, but haven't tried, is to possibly close the frunk lid on the cable as I assume you're doing with your doors.
My dealer showed me the work around for this so I can now leave my trunk open rather than crush my cable. Also allows me to arm the alarm. You can get a flat bladed screwdriver and flick the latch over that usually locks the lid. It's really easy to do. The car then thinks the lid is closed and the trunk light goes off and alarm arms etc. when you actually need to close the lid you need to use the lid opening function in the carver on remote first to re open the latch. Ask your dealer to show you. It's a nifty trick they use on the new cars to stop the drunk light draining the battery when they have the lid up for extended periods of time.
If you had a power cut it could have caused an issue with your charger as per Mikes description above...
If you had a power cut it could have caused an issue with your charger as per Mikes description above...
#72
Race Director
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My dealer showed me the work around for this so I can now leave my trunk open rather than crush my cable. Also allows me to arm the alarm. You can get a flat bladed screwdriver and flick the latch over that usually locks the lid. It's really easy to do. The car then thinks the lid is closed and the trunk light goes off and alarm arms etc. when you actually need to close the lid you need to use the lid opening function in the carver on remote first to re open the latch. Ask your dealer to show you. It's a nifty trick they use on the new cars to stop the drunk light draining the battery when they have the lid up for extended periods of time.
If you had a power cut it could have caused an issue with your charger as per Mikes description above...
If you had a power cut it could have caused an issue with your charger as per Mikes description above...