How to do a DIY 991 GT3 Oil Change
07-26-2015, 07:26 PM
#106
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I have a oil filter from Paragon Im never going to use, new in box. Any one who wants it can have it for $20 plus shipping, just PM me
I have a oil filter from Paragon Im never going to use, new in box. Any one who wants it can have it for $20 plus shipping, just PM me
Last edited by ///MMB; 07-27-2015 at 03:41 PM.
11-04-2015, 09:17 PM
#109
Nordschleife Master
because it must not be too easy just using jack stands. I see how you can get oil everywhere. Ok, why did it take me 6 hours, well same thing happened to me when I bought my filter and 2 plug sealing rings. Just as Bartron noted, the copper ring was fine but the alloy ring was much too big, they gave me the wrong part. I had to drive back to the dealer. After a few phone calls, waited for my wife to bring me my other vehicle then the drive up and back. Other than the side trips it took me just over an hour for my first kick at the can. Definitely be quicker next time around. Must say the parts rep at the dealer felt terrible so he gave me some Porsche key chains and lanyards, another oil filter and 4 copper sealing rings and 4 alloy sealing rings.
Would like to thank Mike in CA for your great write up. It certainly helped out.
One tip I would add is make sure you get the right sealing rings based off the parts numbers. Don't do what I did and just trust the parts service rep.
11-05-2015, 02:31 AM
#110
Race Director
Thread Starter
Just finished my first Oil change and it only took me 6 hours and I had my mechanic at work help me, also had the use of a lift. You guys that do the oil change without the lift, I worship you because it must not be too easy just using jack stands. I see how you can get oil everywhere.
Ok, why did it take me 6 hours, well same thing happened to me when I bought my filter and 2 plug sealing rings. Just as Bartron noted, the copper ring was fine but the alloy ring was much too big, they gave me the wrong part. I had to drive back to the dealer. After a few phone calls, waited for my wife to bring me my other vehicle then the drive up and back. Other than the side trips it took me just over an hour for my first kick at the can. Definitely be quicker next time around. Must say the parts rep at the dealer felt terrible so he gave me some Porsche key chains and lanyards, another oil filter and 4 copper sealing rings and 4 alloy sealing rings.
Would like to thank Mike in CA for your great write up. It certainly helped out.
One tip I would add is make sure you get the right sealing rings based off the parts numbers. Don't do what I did and just trust the parts service rep.
because it must not be too easy just using jack stands. I see how you can get oil everywhere. Ok, why did it take me 6 hours, well same thing happened to me when I bought my filter and 2 plug sealing rings. Just as Bartron noted, the copper ring was fine but the alloy ring was much too big, they gave me the wrong part. I had to drive back to the dealer. After a few phone calls, waited for my wife to bring me my other vehicle then the drive up and back. Other than the side trips it took me just over an hour for my first kick at the can. Definitely be quicker next time around. Must say the parts rep at the dealer felt terrible so he gave me some Porsche key chains and lanyards, another oil filter and 4 copper sealing rings and 4 alloy sealing rings.
Would like to thank Mike in CA for your great write up. It certainly helped out.
One tip I would add is make sure you get the right sealing rings based off the parts numbers. Don't do what I did and just trust the parts service rep.
11-12-2015, 06:19 PM
#111
Race Director
Thread Starter
I did my second oil change today and thought I'd post a couple of follow up items. I tried to edit my original post as well, but no longer have the ability to do that so hopefully this will get the info out there.
From the first wheel up off the ground to putting away the last tool it took me 75 minutes. This could easily be cut down to under an hour but I took time to clean the engine tray/diffuser since I had it off, and wipe down the exposed parts, as well as inspecting and generally admiring everything under there. I take my time.....it's the journey.
Getting to the drain plugs in the sump is greatly aided by buying yourself a set of these stubby allen wrenches. You can also buy just the metric wrenches, since only the 8mm is needed for this job, and save a little money.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o09_s00
You may still need a short length of pipe to get a good purchase on the wrench but regardless it makes getting to the sump plugs much easier. So easy, that I removed both this time even though the workshop manual only mentions removing the forward one. I now recommend removing both as I found that at least an extra 1/4 to 1/3 quart of old oil came out of the rear plug, even after letting the other plugs drain for several minutes.
When refilling, I added exactly 7 quarts. Although I expected to have to add more, after bringing the engine up to temperature I found I was at the optimum one bar below max; this despite pulling all the plugs and letting the engine drain for at least 20 minutes. Even after returning from a brisk "test drive" the level still read one bar below max. I'll keep an eye on it, but I repeat my suggestion that initially add no more than 7 quarts after a change.
From the first wheel up off the ground to putting away the last tool it took me 75 minutes. This could easily be cut down to under an hour but I took time to clean the engine tray/diffuser since I had it off, and wipe down the exposed parts, as well as inspecting and generally admiring everything under there. I take my time.....it's the journey.
Getting to the drain plugs in the sump is greatly aided by buying yourself a set of these stubby allen wrenches. You can also buy just the metric wrenches, since only the 8mm is needed for this job, and save a little money.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o09_s00
You may still need a short length of pipe to get a good purchase on the wrench but regardless it makes getting to the sump plugs much easier. So easy, that I removed both this time even though the workshop manual only mentions removing the forward one. I now recommend removing both as I found that at least an extra 1/4 to 1/3 quart of old oil came out of the rear plug, even after letting the other plugs drain for several minutes.
When refilling, I added exactly 7 quarts. Although I expected to have to add more, after bringing the engine up to temperature I found I was at the optimum one bar below max; this despite pulling all the plugs and letting the engine drain for at least 20 minutes. Even after returning from a brisk "test drive" the level still read one bar below max. I'll keep an eye on it, but I repeat my suggestion that initially add no more than 7 quarts after a change.
11-12-2015, 08:06 PM
#114
Nordschleife Master
Thanks Mike. I was thinking about removing both front and back plugs when I changed the oil last week. Will definitely do it next year as my baby is off to lalla land for the winter season.
11-13-2015, 03:14 PM
#115
I did my second oil change today and thought I'd post a couple of follow up items. I tried to edit my original post as well, but no longer have the ability to do that so hopefully this will get the info out there.
From the first wheel up off the ground to putting away the last tool it took me 75 minutes. This could easily be cut down to under an hour but I took time to clean the engine tray/diffuser since I had it off, and wipe down the exposed parts, as well as inspecting and generally admiring everything under there. I take my time.....it's the journey.
Getting to the drain plugs in the sump is greatly aided by buying yourself a set of these stubby allen wrenches. You can also buy just the metric wrenches, since only the 8mm is needed for this job, and save a little money.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o09_s00
You may still need a short length of pipe to get a good purchase on the wrench but regardless it makes getting to the sump plugs much easier. So easy, that I removed both this time even though the workshop manual only mentions removing the forward one. I now recommend removing both as I found that at least an extra 1/4 to 1/3 quart of old oil came out of the rear plug, even after letting the other plugs drain for several minutes.
When refilling, I added exactly 7 quarts. Although I expected to have to add more, after bringing the engine up to temperature I found I was at the optimum one bar below max; this despite pulling all the plugs and letting the engine drain for at least 20 minutes. Even after returning from a brisk "test drive" the level still read one bar below max. I'll keep an eye on it, but I repeat my suggestion that initially add no more than 7 quarts after a change.
From the first wheel up off the ground to putting away the last tool it took me 75 minutes. This could easily be cut down to under an hour but I took time to clean the engine tray/diffuser since I had it off, and wipe down the exposed parts, as well as inspecting and generally admiring everything under there. I take my time.....it's the journey.
Getting to the drain plugs in the sump is greatly aided by buying yourself a set of these stubby allen wrenches. You can also buy just the metric wrenches, since only the 8mm is needed for this job, and save a little money.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o09_s00
You may still need a short length of pipe to get a good purchase on the wrench but regardless it makes getting to the sump plugs much easier. So easy, that I removed both this time even though the workshop manual only mentions removing the forward one. I now recommend removing both as I found that at least an extra 1/4 to 1/3 quart of old oil came out of the rear plug, even after letting the other plugs drain for several minutes.
When refilling, I added exactly 7 quarts. Although I expected to have to add more, after bringing the engine up to temperature I found I was at the optimum one bar below max; this despite pulling all the plugs and letting the engine drain for at least 20 minutes. Even after returning from a brisk "test drive" the level still read one bar below max. I'll keep an eye on it, but I repeat my suggestion that initially add no more than 7 quarts after a change.
11-13-2015, 05:35 PM
#116
Race Director
Thread Starter
Keith, maybe I'm misunderstanding, but are you saying you've used this on the sump plugs on a 991 GT3? I have an 8mm allen key attachment similar to the one in your photo but there is no way I can get it into the hex fitting in the plugs while attached to a ratchet; there's simply not enough room. Hence, the stubby allen wrench....
11-14-2015, 12:26 AM
#117
Keith, maybe I'm misunderstanding, but are you saying you've used this on the sump plugs on a 991 GT3? I have an 8mm allen key attachment similar to the one in your photo but there is no way I can get it into the hex fitting in the plugs while attached to a ratchet; there's simply not enough room. Hence, the stubby allen wrench....
11-14-2015, 01:08 AM
#118
Keith, maybe I'm misunderstanding, but are you saying you've used this on the sump plugs on a 991 GT3? I have an 8mm allen key attachment similar to the one in your photo but there is no way I can get it into the hex fitting in the plugs while attached to a ratchet; there's simply not enough room. Hence, the stubby allen wrench....
11-14-2015, 01:09 PM
#119
This is the tool you need, a 8mm shorty allen wrench on the right, normal allen on the left. Break the nut free and use your hands to unscrew the plug. I do use a socket drive allen on the dry sump tank. I unscrew both plugs on the block and let them drain. If you don't have the proper washers turn over the ones on the plugs and reuse until you can buy the proper ones..
11-14-2015, 01:30 PM
#120
Race Director
Thread Starter
I could get my hex key in the plug with the extension but the angle was too severe and there was no way I could loosen the plug. I ended up removing the hex fitting from the socket, inserted it in the plug, and then used an 8mm wrench on that.The stubby allen wrench SmokinGTS shows in his picture above is absolutely the ticket. I got one before I did my second change. Easy to use, inexpensive, and completely effective.
Last edited by Mike in CA; 11-14-2015 at 06:41 PM.