Macca

Agree. My V1 gets the job done. My Bel was hard to read in sun-light, had too many complicated features that I never fully understood and if accidentally left in the car for half a day would fair to overate due to excessive heat transfer through its plastic case. The V1 x 2 I have on the other hand have been indestructible for 12 years, switch them on and they go. At least until 4-5 years ago they were still rating one of the most sensitive in independent tests. The only thing I think they need to consider is a simple GPS chip with user upgradeable database.

Mike in CA

It's possible to reprogram the V1 in a number of different ways, including turning off X-band which is the most common source of false alarms in my area, but which few if any LEO's are using. I don't know if it's the same where you are, but it may be helpful to check out this link....

http://www.valentine1.com/Lab/techreport3.asp

stronbl

... my V1 & Savy works great too. In fact I've never yet got a ticket on the track with it, although I was a little worried when it beeped passing the sound check station at LS during our 90db DE last fall ...

unclejosh

Hello Mike,

I installed the OEM V1 wiring set-up and used your instructions to get me started.

I was able to partially pull off the A-piller trim and get the wiring behind it.

After that, I did not find the need or requirement to pull off the door seal - I was able to feed the flat V1 wire behind it without too much trouble.

The most challenging part was dealing with the removal and replacement of the fuse box carpeted trim piece. There are some "unexpected" anchoring points and plastic studs and female counterparts that can be broken. I broke a male...

Anyway, I may be a bit hamfisted. However, I was surprised at the number of anchoring points for the carpeted trim piece.

I used the fuse tap method and had to bend the tap 90 degrees for clearance.

Finally, I installed a Blend Mount and await the return of my V1 after firmware upgrade to filter out all that K band proximity and traffic sensor junk.

Mike in CA

Hello unclejosh, I'm glad you managed the install despite the trouble. It's been a while since I did the job but IIRC detaching the door seal was more to facilitate the removal of the carpet piece although it does provide easy access for routing the wire.

I also had to bend the fuse tap 90 degrees as shown in picture 5. It's a little hard to see as the tap is wrapped with black electrical tape to prevent the possibility of a short.

The carpet piece can be hard to pull off as the male connectors seat very securely in their receptors and will sometimes pull right out of the slots in the carpet backing before they will let go of the receptors. I was fortunate not to break any; sorry about yours.

I hope everything works well when you get your V1 back.

Jnosol

Thanks for the DIY. Just installed mine, love how clean it looks. On my GTS, I used the same fuse slot. I used a different ground point (10mm metal nut holding the Bose amp), as the ground you pointed out has a plastic nut for the GTS so that wouldn't work.

Blendmount is a must. https://store.blendmount.com/blendmo...ies-p1784.aspx

U OLD DOG

Mike,
Does it matter which side of the fuse you place the fuse tap?
Someone told me it should be on the non-power side of the fuse.

Jnosol

I used Bussmann's fuse tap, $7 from AutoZone + $4 for 10a fuse. Install it in this manner on the D2 open fuse slot. The fuse will act as redundant fuse. If you turn the fuse tap upside down, the fuse would be irrelevant (bypassing the 10a fuse).

Jnosol

I broke a male guide piece too, no big deal. It broke because I was trying to "avoid" pulling the rubber seal as instructed by OP. If you remove the rubber seal (pulling the sealing towards the rear the car) as instructed, you can pull the carpet trim piece by just pulling the whole piece towards the rear of the car. This will reduce any chance of breaking any clips.

Mike in CA

U OLD DOG, if your radar detector has it's own in-line fuse then it doesn't really matter which side of the blade fuse you use for the fuse tap. OTOH, if it doesn't have it's own fuse then you should connect to the cold or non-power side so that the blade fuse itself will act to protect your detector, although the rating is likely to be higher than it should be. The minimum rated fuse in your Porsche is a 5A while most detectors use a 2A.

JCtx

BlendMount and MirrorTap are the cleanest and easiest way by far. Dropping the roof console takes 5 minutes the first time, and there's just one yellow connector in there, which has just 2 wires: red (switched) and black, so can't get any easier than that. Just tap the connector from behind with a MirrorTap 1015 cable (red to red, black to black), and you're done. And it's 100% reversible, just like with an add-a-fuse. It took me less than half an hour to install mine, and most of that was to perfectly adjust the mount (leveled in all directions). I like the detector level with the mirror, so had to find a square piece of rubber to install the detector on its bracket on the first 'click', without any movement. And that also allowed the Porsche sunshield to fit (barely). The fuse slot also doesn't alter the wiring, and there're no airbags on the A-pillars, so not a big deal to route wires there. But definitely a lot more work than the roof console. I'm also including where to insert a credit card, courtesy of another forum member (my console is perfect). This is on a 2016 Cayman GTS, but believe 911s are the same. Hope this helps.

Jnosol

Nice work. I chose not to use mirror tap as I will run the BT device with my V1 as well. Tapping the fuse is actually just as easy, maybe 10min longer. May I suggest cleaning up your wire?

Pop out panel labeled #1, then #2. The OEM mirror bezel has a hole, maybe enough for a wire to run through. I didn't have to drill a hole for the wire that came with the V1. It's much cleaner and looks OEM.

Mike in CA

I like that the Blendmount is solidly mounted and secure. However, I don't care for the way that it hangs down under the mirror and makes the detector so obvious from both inside and outside the car. As for installation, I've done the fuse box hook up in multiple cars and have the process down pat. In the end, it's personal preference.

U OLD DOG

Thanks Mike the V1 has it's own inline fuse.

Mike in CA

Yup, I know. I wasn't 100% sure that you were talking about the V1 so just in case..... Anyway, you're welcome!