Your thoughts on Break In Period for GT3's
01-17-2014, 07:03 PM
#106
Race Director
Doesn't have to. You can roll up miles pretty quickly and by the 4th or 5th day I was over 1000 miles. Even if you're conservative like I am, you can have a lot of fun on the Autobahn and elsewhere in a Porsche keeping the revs moderate and staying away from full throttle, and by the second week it's pretty much turn things loose.
07-17-2014, 12:41 PM
#107
2nd Gear
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Manual recommendations
The Canadian manual is the same as US - recommending low RPMs and strain for first 3000km.
I would note that lack of brake in from racing engine / team driver guys isnt a good guideline given that those engines get rebuilt often. I think operating manual suggestions are to ensure engine longevity while meeting reliability expectations of car owners on warranty and beyond. I find it amazing that any company will provide an engine warranty on a track driven car.
I would note that lack of brake in from racing engine / team driver guys isnt a good guideline given that those engines get rebuilt often. I think operating manual suggestions are to ensure engine longevity while meeting reliability expectations of car owners on warranty and beyond. I find it amazing that any company will provide an engine warranty on a track driven car.
01-11-2015, 12:15 PM
#108
Break in
I have rebuilt numerous engines everything from a 1000 hp Chevy to a RUF 930 turbo. These engines were all broken in differently.
Much of these discussions have addressed engine break-in and possible future smoking or oil consumption issues (breaking in or seating the rings), but we have to break in the entire car, bearings, transmission, brakes, even tires. Obviously the Porsche engineers are very competent but this break in language must have been influenced by the lawyers and warranty department.
I picked up my 2015 GT3 yesterday and it is almost impossible to keep it under 4200 for RPMs. Let it warm up, keep the RPMs reasonable, but my car will not see 9000 RPMs in the first 500 miles. I am also a big believer in first oil change at 1000 miles.
I would not buy a car broken in on a track day. If you want to treat your car like a track car just be ready for the rebuild every 100 hours.
Much of these discussions have addressed engine break-in and possible future smoking or oil consumption issues (breaking in or seating the rings), but we have to break in the entire car, bearings, transmission, brakes, even tires. Obviously the Porsche engineers are very competent but this break in language must have been influenced by the lawyers and warranty department.
I picked up my 2015 GT3 yesterday and it is almost impossible to keep it under 4200 for RPMs. Let it warm up, keep the RPMs reasonable, but my car will not see 9000 RPMs in the first 500 miles. I am also a big believer in first oil change at 1000 miles.
I would not buy a car broken in on a track day. If you want to treat your car like a track car just be ready for the rebuild every 100 hours.
01-11-2015, 01:16 PM
#109
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Timely revival of this thread for me, since my GT3 will likely arrive this week and I hope to get it on track in late February.
Here's what the owner's manual says on break in:
The wording describes 'hints' and 'tips' rather than requirements, so that implies some flexibility with respect to adhering to the guidelines. But they seem to be clear that the car shouldn't be tracked until the 1864 miles is complete. So I'm thinking that I'll reasonably adhere to the guidelines for the first 1000 miles, then gradually bring the rpms up, but not track it until I get to the full 1864 miles.
Here's what the owner's manual says on break in:
Break in hints for the first 2,000 miles (3,000 kilometers)
The following tips will be helpful in obtaining optimum performance from your new Porsche. Despite the most modern, high-precision manufacturing methods, the moving parts must still wear in with each other. This wearing-in occurs mainly in the first 2,000 miles (3,000 km).
Therefore:
- Preferably take longer trips.
- Avoid frequent cold starts with short-distance driving whenever possible.
- Avoid full throttle starts and abrupt stops.
- Do not exceed maximum engine speed of 4,200 rpm (revolutions per minute).
- Do not run a cold engine at high rpm either in Neutral or in gear.
- Do not let the engine labor, especially when driving uphill. Shift to the next lower gear in time (use the most favorable rpm range).
- Never lug the engine in high gear at low speeds. This rule applies at all times, not just during the break-in period.
- Do not participate in motor racing events, sports driving schools, etc. during the first 2,000 miles (3,000 kilometers).
There may be a slight stiffness in the steering, gear-shifting or other controls during the break-in period which will gradually disappear.
3000 km is 1864 miles, so I'm going with that. The following tips will be helpful in obtaining optimum performance from your new Porsche. Despite the most modern, high-precision manufacturing methods, the moving parts must still wear in with each other. This wearing-in occurs mainly in the first 2,000 miles (3,000 km).
Therefore:
- Preferably take longer trips.
- Avoid frequent cold starts with short-distance driving whenever possible.
- Avoid full throttle starts and abrupt stops.
- Do not exceed maximum engine speed of 4,200 rpm (revolutions per minute).
- Do not run a cold engine at high rpm either in Neutral or in gear.
- Do not let the engine labor, especially when driving uphill. Shift to the next lower gear in time (use the most favorable rpm range).
- Never lug the engine in high gear at low speeds. This rule applies at all times, not just during the break-in period.
- Do not participate in motor racing events, sports driving schools, etc. during the first 2,000 miles (3,000 kilometers).
There may be a slight stiffness in the steering, gear-shifting or other controls during the break-in period which will gradually disappear.
The wording describes 'hints' and 'tips' rather than requirements, so that implies some flexibility with respect to adhering to the guidelines. But they seem to be clear that the car shouldn't be tracked until the 1864 miles is complete. So I'm thinking that I'll reasonably adhere to the guidelines for the first 1000 miles, then gradually bring the rpms up, but not track it until I get to the full 1864 miles.
Last edited by Manifold; 01-11-2015 at 01:40 PM.
09-17-2017, 10:14 PM
#110
It's pretty clear that there are conflicting opinions about this. Here's an interesting idea for those who believe in no break-in to test your belief (and that of others) in it's benefits. At re-sale time, proudly post in your Autotrader ad that you drove the car right off the lot like you stole it. I'm sure potential buyers will be impressed! 
It's one of those things that's almost impossible to prove definitively: if your engine fails at 100K miles, was it due to improper break-in? It's possible. I for one would rather not risk it and stick to the manual's recommended process. Can I hold out on redlining if for 3000KM (if that's the recommendation)? Yeah.
09-18-2017, 02:01 AM
#112
I use to work for a Porsche dealer and we had demo`s to use.
I use to go ***** out from day one, My car was always the most free revving car on the lot.
i know when it is your own car you may consider a different option, though I went to the ford factory once and they use to drive there cars to 200 KMPH a the end of the line on a dyno hitting 6000rpm each gear change.
I am not 100% sure of this run-in thing, maybe Porsche protecting their warranty claims. Though for most free revving car .. ***** out.
09-18-2017, 02:56 AM
#113
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Totally non-scientific, but when I was doing euro delivery for Turbo S this summer, they put me in identical Turbo S for a track day. It had short of 2000 km (or 1400 miles), and my instructor told me it was ok to give it all I got. When I mentioned that brakes were a little spongy, he said that after almost 2000 km of being flogged on the track they were due for a flush. I asked him about the break-in then, he said it was more of a precaution in case something was wrong with the car, and for Porsche center cars they replace break in with just testing cars on the track. I don't know for sure if he knows what he was talking about, but he's the one pictured driving in many of the Porsche's 911 brochures, so probably not a totally random dude.
Anyway, my belief (as opposed to science) is to baby it for 500 miles, gradually increase load for another 500-800, and then use normally. My 2014 gt3 engine lasted more than most others and used very little oil close to the end, so it must be working, LOL.
Anyway, my belief (as opposed to science) is to baby it for 500 miles, gradually increase load for another 500-800, and then use normally. My 2014 gt3 engine lasted more than most others and used very little oil close to the end, so it must be working, LOL.
09-18-2017, 08:09 AM
#115
Drifting
^Love it!
09-18-2017, 08:17 AM
#116
Drifting
Yup. This is why I don't buy pre-owned performance cars. How you break it in makes a ton of difference. My neighbour's 997 had to have an engine replaced due to improper cold weather driving...
It's one of those things that's almost impossible to prove definitively: if your engine fails at 100K miles, was it due to improper break-in? It's possible. I for one would rather not risk it and stick to the manual's recommended process. Can I hold out on redlining if for 3000KM (if that's the recommendation)? Yeah.
It's one of those things that's almost impossible to prove definitively: if your engine fails at 100K miles, was it due to improper break-in? It's possible. I for one would rather not risk it and stick to the manual's recommended process. Can I hold out on redlining if for 3000KM (if that's the recommendation)? Yeah.
General rule is bring it to NOT, than you can go WOT.
While I do believe certain components of a car must "settle", revving the engine under NOT, should not be the cause for failure.
And as posted above by CAlexio, don't lug the motor around...
09-18-2017, 09:46 AM
#118
Burning Brakes
Dumb question. I've always heard "lugging" your engine is bad, so I try to avoid it. But does anyone have a good explanation why?
Breaking in the engine and waiting for the engine to reach operating temps before spirited driving makes sense. Lugging not so much. At least it's not obvious.
Just curious.
Breaking in the engine and waiting for the engine to reach operating temps before spirited driving makes sense. Lugging not so much. At least it's not obvious.
Just curious.
09-18-2017, 12:27 PM
#119
Addict
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Not sure what the protocol is (how long they sustain high revs and how many "pulls" from low revs they do)
09-18-2017, 12:42 PM
#120
Rennlist Member
Dumb question. I've always heard "lugging" your engine is bad, so I try to avoid it. But does anyone have a good explanation why?
Breaking in the engine and waiting for the engine to reach operating temps before spirited driving makes sense. Lugging not so much. At least it's not obvious.
Just curious.
Breaking in the engine and waiting for the engine to reach operating temps before spirited driving makes sense. Lugging not so much. At least it's not obvious.
Just curious.
Modern engine management systems are load mapped into ranges that you will literally never see on the street. The ECU knock and timing strategies are also extremely sensitive and precise. The ECU is actually programmed to ride the edge of pre-ignition as this is the most efficient; they've gotten so good with the knock sensors and algorithms that they can actually tell from the noise (knock sensors are piezo microphones) when slight combustion instability is occurring which the precursor to full on detonation and adjust in real time.
In short, in a modern car, "lugging" the engine does absolutely nothing detrimental to it.