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Time for my first tire change. I know that I can lift one corner with a floor jack high enough to put a jack stand on the other axle and do this on the other side because how stiff the car is. This will allow me to change two tires and deal with one axle at a time. But what if I want to put the jack stands on all 4 corners and I dont want to spend $1000 on fancy jack stands or jacking bars? Can two jacks be placed on the rear cross member that connects to the suspension? If so, do you put the jack stand on where the bolt connects to it (in order to be as close to the tires as possible to prevent equal weight distribution and stability) OR do you put it on the cross member’s flat section? Is it safe to use the 5 ft breaker bar (precision instruments with extension) on this position of cross member supporting the rear? I dont want the car to tip over.
I was initially going to do this on my 4 post lift and rolling scissor jack on it but I realized I have to raise the axle too high to clear the 21” wheels and then lower the entire car in this position to the floor. Made me a bit too uncomfortable and I think doing this with simple jack stands it better.
If I can only do one axle at a time safely, thats fine. Its just more work as far as making multiple trips to the tire shop.
I have invested in two hi-quality 4K floor jacks by AC. Lift the left rear Jack point so you can put a AC Jack stand under the left front. Then put a AC Jack stand under a solid left rear attachment point, only as a precaution if the Jack slips down. Then Carefully repeat on the right side of the car with the other AC Jack.
Always block the front wheels before starting.
I ended up lifting the car using my scissor lift on the 4 post lift. I tried the jack stand method but I found it a bit disturbing once I started jacking the front of the car. In order to raise the back high enough to fit a jack stand, you have to raise the car way too much. During this process the other front also starts being raised to the point 3 sides of the car is off the ground and only one tire touches to the ground. I did notice slight movement on the car while doing this and did not proceed. I had no issue with the rolling scissor jack on my 4 post lift. It was pretty stable.
I have invested in two hi-quality 4K floor jacks by AC. Lift the left rear Jack point so you can put a AC Jack stand under the left front. Then put a AC Jack stand under a solid left rear attachment point, only as a precaution if the Jack slips down. Then Carefully repeat on the right side of the car with the other AC Jack.
Always block the front wheels before starting.
Which model was selected and why? Does the selected model provide sufficient coverage for existing and future vehicles?
I bought model BL-5000SLX for my 6GT3. The 5000TLX has now replaced it with a lift of 24".
You need to size the model to the available distance between front and rear wheels. In other words, it needs to fit between the tires and be able to align with the lift points on the car. Check your car.
They give you rubber blocks to prevent marring the car's undercarriage and you can stack them for additional height. I can work under the car, but dropping an engine is not possible without doing some tricks. I've seen it done, but it takes lifting the car up, placing something under the wheels, lowering it, and adding something like the Truck Adapter Set.
Also, check out the videos of this thing in action. When the car goes up it will swing forward about 6" - 10", so you need to account for that displacement in your garage.
See this thread I started in February. I am using 2 Jackpoints and two Escos exactly as pictured a couple of posts above. It works perfectly and is a very stable process.
Good alternatives are the Quickjack or Porken lift bars.
06-01-2023, 10:20 PM
Jacking a GT3RS with normal Jack Stands
