arowden86

I currently have soul race headers and the dundon crack pipe installed. Unforutnelty, it rattles at idle, and basically the entire time it's below 4k rpm and just sounds like garbage. As soon as it hits 4-5k, the tone changes and it's amazing! I tried their fix here. But didn't have any luck with it. Has anyone else had issues with this or found solutions? I'm considering changing to another system because of it, but I hate to because it sounds so good when it's over 5k. Puts a grin on my face every time.

CX_GT3

Combining two exhaust parts from two different manufacturers was a bad idea, and they were never tested nor engineered together. Your best bet would be to change the header to something made from Dundon or change the rear bypass to Soul products.

I had the Dundon street header + crack pipe on my .2 GT3RS before, it droned at 3000-4000, but it was tolerable.

Xec

Agree with this, I have a Crack Pipe with OEM headers and no issues with rattles.

arowden86

I had it set up with factory headers, and it rattled the same then.

DiscoWagon

Do you know the exact location of the rattle?

bergx7

Agree that mixing and matching isn't ideal but I would also make sure you connect with Jamie / Charles if they have any tips / thoughts. Anytime I have had an issue they have been able to solve it with me.

arowden86

The rear, near the exhaust. It sounds like metal on metal. I contacted Dundon and they said it's hard to say without seeing the instal. They've seen some installed totally wrong. I had it installed by a preferred installer though, I know it's right. But it's still hard for them to say.

Dumpspec

i would check all the clamps and Vband clamps to make sure they are properly secured. Not sure if you seen this but dundon posted a DIY on how to fix exhaust rattle.

https://www.dundonmotorsports.com/bl...tling-solution

AdamSanta85

Oh come on now, been modding cars for 20 years, that should definitely not be an issue as long as both parts were meant to work with OE stuff.

Ted@dundonmotorsports

It shouldn't matter what it's paired with, but the crack pipe will certainly expose any loose fasteners or potential rattles. It was designed to be light, loud and make power for Cup cars, so when you put it on a street car there are definitely drawbacks.

That said, you should be able to dig in and find the source of the rattle. Best bet is to get the rear of the car (or the whole thing on a lift) up in the air and start hunting around with the car running. Others here have shared the two most common causes of the rattle (the upper tabs on the muffler bracket and loose or broken clamps). If you have a "custom" rattle, you'll just need to do some sleuthing and find out what's causing it.

Best of luck, and if I can help, let me know!

Xec

Did you ever get this resolved?

Mine actually developed this jarring, metallic rattle that I suspect you must've encountered, which progressively worsened over time. Sometimes you could hear it at idle and was quite loud between 2-3K RPM. Sometimes I'd hear a resonance at 4K RPM also. I noticed one of my v-bands had rotated 180 degrees so had it replaced. Upon the replacement, tech found a cracked bracket and replaced that also.

The rattle and resonance at 2-3K RPM and idle is gone. However, the resonance at 4K RPM remains. I'm guessing it might be something to do with the center tabs that Dundon covered in their video. I've shelled out $1K already chasing this so I'm going to try to live with it...