PCCB and limited track use
#16
I met someone who tracked his 911 turbo S pretty regularly. He was not worried about his rotors, because he said he sent them to a place in Europe to have then refurbished. I Googled and found a place called Rebrake. Site was partially in German so I couldn't figure out pricing.
Anyone heard of this?
Anyone heard of this?
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pjazz (01-03-2022)
#17
Rebrake refurb work great, my buddies in Europe and some in the US have used them extensively over the years and keep on tracking. PCCB's will run for years as long as pad thickness never goes beyond 50%. Competition Motorsport and many others sell the RSC1's all day long and $8-900 for a set is average, rears will last allot longer.
PCCB's as I said above are great for track use, but ST's are a whole different league due to pad availability.
PCCB's as I said above are great for track use, but ST's are a whole different league due to pad availability.
#18
I met someone who tracked his 911 turbo S pretty regularly. He was not worried about his rotors, because he said he sent them to a place in Europe to have then refurbished. I Googled and found a place called Rebrake. Site was partially in German so I couldn't figure out pricing.
Anyone heard of this?
Anyone heard of this?
#19
If you are more concerned with resale and your current PCCBs are in great condition, you can switch to 2-piece iron discs for track use to shelve your PCCBs. Your PCCB's will likely last for many years if you are only doing 4 track days a year though. However, being a novice can sometimes mean you are more or less hard on your brakes. Novices tend to brake longer which induces more heat into the system, potentially exceeding the thermal threshold that the OE PCCBs are designed for which allows them to break down faster. Conversely, novices also tend to not push the cars as hard and aren't braking from the speeds that more experienced drivers are. This is why every situation is a bit different, but don't overthink it. Your rotors are likely going to be fine and if not, you have several solid options as a backup that won't cost you $20K.
If you do find that you want to switch to iron discs, we are a dealer for Girodisc, PFC, and AP Racing. Pricing is typically within $200 for a full set for all three options. Each 2-piece disc has pros and cons. Currently, the Girodiscs and PFC discs are in stock. The 2-piece design combats warpage and allows for the friction rings to be replaced separately from the race hats, reducing replacement costs. The PFC discs use a snap ring to swap the friction rings and the Girodisc uses the standard bobbin style.
We are also a Surface Transforms dealer. If you want to continue to take advantage of the benefits that Carbon Ceramics provide, you could also switch to Surface Transforms (CCSTs). A full set (F/R) runs $12,650 and can be refurbished up to 3 times. They outperform the OE PCCBs by every metric and cost 50% less. You can either shelve your PCCBs or replace them with the CCSTs when it is time.
Luckily, the aftermarket has you covered as there are lots of options for the GT3.
All of our 991 Brake Rotor options can be found here
Feel free to reach out with questions.
If you do find that you want to switch to iron discs, we are a dealer for Girodisc, PFC, and AP Racing. Pricing is typically within $200 for a full set for all three options. Each 2-piece disc has pros and cons. Currently, the Girodiscs and PFC discs are in stock. The 2-piece design combats warpage and allows for the friction rings to be replaced separately from the race hats, reducing replacement costs. The PFC discs use a snap ring to swap the friction rings and the Girodisc uses the standard bobbin style.
We are also a Surface Transforms dealer. If you want to continue to take advantage of the benefits that Carbon Ceramics provide, you could also switch to Surface Transforms (CCSTs). A full set (F/R) runs $12,650 and can be refurbished up to 3 times. They outperform the OE PCCBs by every metric and cost 50% less. You can either shelve your PCCBs or replace them with the CCSTs when it is time.
Luckily, the aftermarket has you covered as there are lots of options for the GT3.
All of our 991 Brake Rotor options can be found here
Feel free to reach out with questions.
__________________
-Rick
HINZ MOTORSPORT
Race Parts & Accessories for your PORSCHE
www.HinzMotorsport.com
Call: 414-212-5679
Email: rick@hinzmotorsport.com
-Rick
HINZ MOTORSPORT
Race Parts & Accessories for your PORSCHE
www.HinzMotorsport.com
Call: 414-212-5679
Email: rick@hinzmotorsport.com
#20
My 2015 gt3 has 7000 miles, all street miles. I would like to do maybe 4 days of DE events a year. I'm only one level up from novice, so I'm not that aggressive...yet. I love the cleanness of the ceramic, I mean no dust after miles and miles of driving. Do I really need to convert to iron rotors for track use, to avoid damaging this very expensive hardware? Or, is that very limited time being aggressive with the ceramics nothing to worry about? I don't want to have to change between street and track gear every time I go to track. I also don't want the car full time steel rotor due to dust. Also, if going to steel rotors, I assume the calipers remain, just need to go to compatible pads for steel rotors? Does someone make a set of rotors with compatible pads should I go that way.?Thanks all, and Happy New Year!!
Ive tracked a 997.1 GT3, 997.2 GT3, 991.2 GT3 and a 718 Spyder all with PCCB's with no appreciable rotor wear ... enjoy them in good health
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#21
My 2015 gt3 has 7000 miles, all street miles. I would like to do maybe 4 days of DE events a year. I'm only one level up from novice, so I'm not that aggressive...yet. I love the cleanness of the ceramic, I mean no dust after miles and miles of driving. Do I really need to convert to iron rotors for track use, to avoid damaging this very expensive hardware? Or, is that very limited time being aggressive with the ceramics nothing to worry about? I don't want to have to change between street and track gear every time I go to track. I also don't want the car full time steel rotor due to dust. Also, if going to steel rotors, I assume the calipers remain, just need to go to compatible pads for steel rotors? Does someone make a set of rotors with compatible pads should I go that way.?Thanks all, and Happy New Year!!
Many people do not realize (myself included before it was explained to me!) that the carbon ceramic rotor/pad setup is actually less efficient, that is why your surface area of pad to rotor contact is larger. When you do a "conversion" on your 991 GT3 to steel rotors, the brake pads are actual a smaller contact patch with the rotor because steel brakes/rotors are more efficient in stopping your car.
Also, it is a misconception on the 991.1/.2 that doing an iron brake conversion is a big to do. You simply replace the brake rotors and brake pads with the new iron versions, thats it. No brackets, no trimming or cutting, nothing! It is 100% reversible and does not hurt a thing.
Give us a call to talk brakes, it is what we do! Also if you're local to VIR come on by and see us.
--Aaron
__________________
#22
Thanks for the fantastic suggestions from all. I really appreciate it. If switching to say the Girodisc system, can you get a pad suitable for Street 95% use, and track maybe 5% use, that won't turn my rims black the first time I use the brakes, after a good car detailing? I'm not lazy, buy my 997 lobster rims were a job to keep clean. The current pccb's don't make any mess at all on my gt3.
#23
Thanks for the fantastic suggestions from all. I really appreciate it. If switching to say the Girodisc system, can you get a pad suitable for Street 95% use, and track maybe 5% use, that won't turn my rims black the first time I use the brakes, after a good car detailing? I'm not lazy, buy my 997 lobster rims were a job to keep clean. The current pccb's don't make any mess at all on my gt3.
#24
I'm sorry but I don't think anyone who brakes hard enough or long enough on track to exceed the thermal threshold of PCCBs can be classified as a novice (or if they are a true novice they will probably end up in the wall before they do serious damage to their rotors.) I think there has been one guy here on Rennlist who has actually burned a set of PCCB rotors up. If I remember correctly he tracked a turbo, sounded like he was pretty fast and that was after a fairly high number of track days. But if there are others I'd love to hear from them here especially if you've burned up your PCCBs running in a beginner group.
A wise man here on Rennlist once told me "Don't buy track mods for your car until you need them and if you don't know whether you need them or not you probably don't . . . ."
#25
Conversely, novices also tend to not push the cars as hard and aren't braking from the speeds that more experienced drivers are. This is why every situation is a bit different, but don't overthink it. Your rotors are likely going to be fine and if not, you have several solid options as a backup that won't cost you $20K.
#26
More data points:
my 2016 GT3 has 23k miles, and 60 ish track days. Original PCCB rotors are fine. I have a second set that is going on the car and we’re going to measure the carbon on this set soon.
Car was owned by a very talented, fast driver before me. He drives hard but isn’t abusive on brakes. Will be interesting to see where they are.
the set going on had 40k ish street miles and a few track days, and measured close to new.
my 2016 GT3 has 23k miles, and 60 ish track days. Original PCCB rotors are fine. I have a second set that is going on the car and we’re going to measure the carbon on this set soon.
Car was owned by a very talented, fast driver before me. He drives hard but isn’t abusive on brakes. Will be interesting to see where they are.
the set going on had 40k ish street miles and a few track days, and measured close to new.
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modernyankee (01-24-2022)
#27
A friend of mine with a 991.1 GT3 went through more motors (3) than PCCB rotors (0) during the time of her ownership. And this was a dedicated track car, with something like 40-50 track days.
#28
mine is on the first set of rotors, second motor and third set of pads with those 60 ish track days.
#29
More data points:
my 2016 GT3 has 23k miles, and 60 ish track days. Original PCCB rotors are fine. I have a second set that is going on the car and we’re going to measure the carbon on this set soon.
Car was owned by a very talented, fast driver before me. He drives hard but isn’t abusive on brakes. Will be interesting to see where they are.
the set going on had 40k ish street miles and a few track days, and measured close to new.
my 2016 GT3 has 23k miles, and 60 ish track days. Original PCCB rotors are fine. I have a second set that is going on the car and we’re going to measure the carbon on this set soon.
Car was owned by a very talented, fast driver before me. He drives hard but isn’t abusive on brakes. Will be interesting to see where they are.
the set going on had 40k ish street miles and a few track days, and measured close to new.
I bought a CPO 991.1 RS that had exhausted its PCCB in 4,000 track miles, 5,000 total miles, but the original owner / driver was advanced. Advanced drivs are suposed to have PCCB checked after each track event, per PCNA. Novices have nothing to worry about.