PCCB and limited track use
#1
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My 2015 gt3 has 7000 miles, all street miles. I would like to do maybe 4 days of DE events a year. I'm only one level up from novice, so I'm not that aggressive...yet. I love the cleanness of the ceramic, I mean no dust after miles and miles of driving. Do I really need to convert to iron rotors for track use, to avoid damaging this very expensive hardware? Or, is that very limited time being aggressive with the ceramics nothing to worry about? I don't want to have to change between street and track gear every time I go to track. I also don't want the car full time steel rotor due to dust. Also, if going to steel rotors, I assume the calipers remain, just need to go to compatible pads for steel rotors? Does someone make a set of rotors with compatible pads should I go that way.?Thanks all, and Happy New Year!!
#2
Race Car
#3
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I'd also recommend swapping to Girodisc iron rotors prior to tracking. You could go with something like Surface Transform rotors which can be refurbished unlike the factory rotors. Just depends on your budget.
#4
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No Irons needed, just add Pagid RSC1's and your good to go, had 25+ DE days on my old RS before I sold it and the rotors looked like new after each wash. I push hard and advanced solo, same with a good buddy of mine who goes all out on track and his rotors on his GT3 perfect too.
Don't believe the old wives tale about PCCB's as most people get confused with 997 PCCB's which are crap. My Mclaren and ZR1 on the other hand, rotors look like toast after a weekend as that's old Brembo technology.
Don't believe the old wives tale about PCCB's as most people get confused with 997 PCCB's which are crap. My Mclaren and ZR1 on the other hand, rotors look like toast after a weekend as that's old Brembo technology.
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#5
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Do the math on how many miles you expect to do at the track each year, then figure in how you expect the track to factor into heat on the rotors. That is what I did with my GT4s, both of which had PCCBs. Even at the very most aggressive approximations I came up with resulted in looking like my PCCBs might need to be replaced... in 10 years. So it was no worries whatsoever for me. Of course I only had one of the GT4s for 12 months and the other 6 months, so it really didn't matter.
My GT3s have both had steels, solely because I want to more easily run 19" wheels for better tire options.
Boy I sure miss those PCCBs when it comes time to wash the car though.
My GT3s have both had steels, solely because I want to more easily run 19" wheels for better tire options.
Boy I sure miss those PCCBs when it comes time to wash the car though.
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Larry Cable (01-02-2022)
#6
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No Irons needed, just add Pagid RSC1's and your good to go, had 25+ DE days on my old RS before I sold it and the rotors looked like new after each wash. I push hard and advanced solo, same with a good buddy of mine who goes all out on track and his rotors on his GT3 perfect too.
Don't believe the old wives tale about PCCB's as most people get confused with 997 PCCB's which are crap. My Mclaren and ZR1 on the other hand, rotors look like toast after a weekend as that's old Brembo technology.
Don't believe the old wives tale about PCCB's as most people get confused with 997 PCCB's which are crap. My Mclaren and ZR1 on the other hand, rotors look like toast after a weekend as that's old Brembo technology.
Only advantage with the ZR1 rotors (at least on the C6) is that they are considerably less expensive than the PCCBs to replace.
#7
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I’ve done about 10 track days in the advanced group over the last two years with my pccb’s and haven’t even done a pad change yet. Yes, stock pads. Unless you like to slam on the brakes at every opportunity it won’t be an issue. My times are around the faster drivers as well. Remember, slow in, fast out results in good lap times.
Last edited by Mthrice; 01-01-2022 at 04:46 PM.
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#8
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I had PCCBs on my 2016 gt4 I bought used with 4k miles. The previous owner tracked the car hard. I did about 6 track days myself.
I took that car to the dealer prior to my first track day to get a baseline on the life left on the discs. Make sure you get the carboteq measurement.
Take it to the first track day - then take it back for another measurement. That will tell you what you need to know. In my case there was almost no change. I wish I kept the measurements but the difference was so minor I didn’t even pay attention to it.
I measured after the 6 track days and numerous back roads. (another 4k miles) the discs were still fine. A little more life used but not enough to be alarmed.
That said - pay attention to what others here say. Make sure your pads have enough life.
Also if you don’t want to spend the money on the outside chance you need to replace them then just go for the giro disc solution linked above.
Im somewhere near a low intermediate in terms of pace and track skill. I know some of the people on here that run their cars near race pace in the advanced groups can burn through discs. So you do have to be honest with yourself on how you expect to drive. If you’re hard on brakes giros could be the right way to go.
I took that car to the dealer prior to my first track day to get a baseline on the life left on the discs. Make sure you get the carboteq measurement.
Take it to the first track day - then take it back for another measurement. That will tell you what you need to know. In my case there was almost no change. I wish I kept the measurements but the difference was so minor I didn’t even pay attention to it.
I measured after the 6 track days and numerous back roads. (another 4k miles) the discs were still fine. A little more life used but not enough to be alarmed.
That said - pay attention to what others here say. Make sure your pads have enough life.
Also if you don’t want to spend the money on the outside chance you need to replace them then just go for the giro disc solution linked above.
Im somewhere near a low intermediate in terms of pace and track skill. I know some of the people on here that run their cars near race pace in the advanced groups can burn through discs. So you do have to be honest with yourself on how you expect to drive. If you’re hard on brakes giros could be the right way to go.
#9
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My 2015 gt3 has 7000 miles, all street miles. I would like to do maybe 4 days of DE events a year. I'm only one level up from novice, so I'm not that aggressive...yet. I love the cleanness of the ceramic, I mean no dust after miles and miles of driving. Do I really need to convert to iron rotors for track use, to avoid damaging this very expensive hardware? Or, is that very limited time being aggressive with the ceramics nothing to worry about? I don't want to have to change between street and track gear every time I go to track. I also don't want the car full time steel rotor due to dust. Also, if going to steel rotors, I assume the calipers remain, just need to go to compatible pads for steel rotors? Does someone make a set of rotors with compatible pads should I go that way.?Thanks all, and Happy New Year!!
If you become advanced, then you'll want to switch out to the Girodisc iron rotors.
#10
Instructor
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maybe 4 track times a year? you're fine keep the pccb.
with that said the track makes a difference too since 1 track day at a certain track can equal wear consistent with 3 days at another track
with that said the track makes a difference too since 1 track day at a certain track can equal wear consistent with 3 days at another track
#11
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I've run 16 days in Open class over the last 2 years in my GT3. I'm now on a second set of pads (Pagid RSC1 as well) and my rotors are fine. I worry more about chipping the rotors when dropping 2 off track occasionally.
PCCB rotors wear when they are pushed past a certain temp and that wear rate will not be linear to steel when they do get too hot. If one is fast enough or runs double sessions / open endurance type days you could ruin them very quickly but for the majority of regular drivers running 20 minute DE sessions I just don't think it's a worry.
PCCB rotors wear when they are pushed past a certain temp and that wear rate will not be linear to steel when they do get too hot. If one is fast enough or runs double sessions / open endurance type days you could ruin them very quickly but for the majority of regular drivers running 20 minute DE sessions I just don't think it's a worry.
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#12
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I've run 16 days in Open class over the last 2 years in my GT3. I'm now on a second set of pads (Pagid RSC1 as well) and my rotors are fine. I worry more about chipping the rotors when dropping 2 off track occasionally.
PCCB rotors wear when they are pushed past a certain temp and that wear rate will not be linear to steel when they do get too hot. If one is fast enough or runs double sessions / open endurance type days you could ruin them very quickly but for the majority of regular drivers running 20 minute DE sessions I just don't think it's a worry.
PCCB rotors wear when they are pushed past a certain temp and that wear rate will not be linear to steel when they do get too hot. If one is fast enough or runs double sessions / open endurance type days you could ruin them very quickly but for the majority of regular drivers running 20 minute DE sessions I just don't think it's a worry.
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ElGrandetango (01-04-2022)
#13
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OEM pads are typically 10-12mm when new.
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mipcar (01-02-2022)
#15
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I met someone who tracked his 911 turbo S pretty regularly. He was not worried about his rotors, because he said he sent them to a place in Europe to have then refurbished. I Googled and found a place called Rebrake. Site was partially in German so I couldn't figure out pricing.
Anyone heard of this?
Anyone heard of this?