rodsky

Except for the OP - apparently?

NCheok

This doesn't hold any water, 60+ track days on what kind of circuit and what kind of ambient and track temperatures? Tooting around in Silverstone when it is permanently cloudy with drizzles and freezing ambient temperatures is going to put next to no wear vs. driving in the Desert with boiling temperatures, if the Green Hell was in Bahrain or any Middle East F1 grade circuit, it will be the Yellow Hell.

I love how everyone defend PCCBs like they're the next best thing since sliced bread, yet everyone who is sensible enough to "spec" them somehow remove them immediately before any serious use to preserve them because of their $30K repair bill.

LSs1Power

i did three track days with 4-5 20mins sessions. I usually go flatout for 2-3 laps and then do 2 cool down laps before heading to the pits. The water tank runs out on lap 4 if I’m still on it so that was usually my signal.

Even when i roll in the pits, i keep the car in N and don’t use the brakes, i keep it rolling slowly until it stops and i dont even engage P to avoid engaging the parking brakes. So i keep the car running in N for 5-10mins before shutting the engine and putting it in P.

M3the01

Nope, oem for $10-13k... Source from germany. I will sell u mine, pulled fresh, $20k. I will sell u them continuously for $20k ;-).

Something is obviously up here... Not sure how destroyed so quickly.

SmokinGTS

I think we are missing one very important point here, what pad material was Manthey using on their pads. With normal stock pads you will not transfer the heat like full racing pads. Teams throw away their rotors after one race on ceramic disc. If you own PCCBs never use aggressive pads.

hsb1001

Im down here in Florida with temps of 90+ degrees running OEM Ceramics with Pagid RSC1 pads, 2 weekends per month at the track on average and never seen an issue on my car. Plus I believe I am pushing my brakes quite hard. A warm up lap and a cool down lap of Sebring is all I do and then push for a good 6-7 laps on and off.

My friends in Europe are running in warmer climates also ie Spain/Portugal and yes Silverstone, never heard of an issue with safe track pads like the RSC1. I only kept using mine after a friend showed me his brakes that kept going for 2 years of hard track usage, he swapped his pads at 60% wear as felt that was the safe point or swapped them inside out which prolonged things even more.

M3the01

Pad and rotor life greatly influenced by swapping pads, i do it every 2-4 track days... Inside to outside.

I also think pushing the car too long for a session eats tires and brakes. I also do a warmup, 1-2 laps, on harder for 5-7 laps, monitoring tire temps, and cool down things. That said, Surface Transforms run about 100 degrees cooler than the latest pccbs.

LSs1Power

Im running MR pads on fronts only, the rears are stock. According to the service manager, the condition of the front rotors using MR are better than the rear rotors.

GrantG

Does Manthey use different pads for Iron and PCCB (I would assume so)?

GT3 KSA

@op - check with Patrick in Porsche Abu Dhabi

M3the01

What tires? Can u describe ur limited number of track days? Seems very strange, especially cause both front and rear pretty roasted.

Can you get the weights of the rotors vs those marked on each rotor. Honestly, something doesn't add up. This will tell us explicitly on how much heat they experienced... They look bad for sure but it is the weight that will showcase overheating issues.

LSs1Power

I was running Cup2R and on BIC you do see 2Gs registered on the G meter because of the good asphalt quality. BIC F1 GP and Endurance layouts are notorious for eating brakes and tires. If you do 5 sessions flatout you will most likely cord your tires in one day. There is no track in the US similar to it. What surprised me is that what killed the brakes was poor heat management by the GT2RS and i think i found its limits on BIC. The GT3 with steel brakes had no issue but keep in mind that the speeds achieved by GT2RS at the end of each straight is at least 10-12mphs higher than GT3 while carrying an extra 100lbs of weight. Check out the video i put in the thread, you will see how many straights in one lap.

M3the01

Get the rotor weight and marked weight for each rotor and that will tell us explicitly... Rotors look bad but there's more than looks.

CRex

OP, how many hot laps did you do in a run, and what's your warm up + cool down procedure? I'm sympathetic to your situation (having bought >5 sets of PCCBs for various cars to-date) but those really look like extreme thermal damage.

It's not about the number of track days or miles. What matters is you seem to have put a TON of heat into the brakes in a very short period, esp. from the looks of those pads.

Also watched your two laps--driving is solid. Do be mindful that ABS hurts your braking distance, puts more heat in the system, AND hurts longevity of PCCBs. The most efficient (also mechanically sympathetic) way to brake these cars is to give it max pedal pressure on initial application, then trail off. You do not add pressure to the pedal ever again after that initial hit--in other words, you only release and adjust the pace of that release. This also happens to be how some of the best drivers in cup cars brake.

Lest there be confusion, I'm not saying ABS caused your issue. I just think you're at the threshold of the heat envelope, and are braking on the limit, that every marginal bit adds up.

The replacement rotors are just what they are, rite of passage as you get good on track. Consider that a badge of honor if that helps...

LSs1Power

I usually do 2-3 hot and then 1-2 cool down laps, go in adjust tire pressure if needed, fill in water before adding the MR Tank and head out again. In a typical track day i will do 18-22 hot laps.

ABS is not triggering on BIC so I don’t think thats the issue. My braking procedure is what you described, basically trail braking to the Apex and then go on the throttle pedal as soon as i can to avoid idle time.

I do agree that thermal capacity on the brakes was reached which damaged things the way we see and that is what Porsche and MR concluded at the end. Thats why i believe they should have covered the damage as its due to heat management issues and nothing else.

My issue is that, without solving this cooling issue i will be changing PCCBs every track outing at BIC which is not realistic. I asked Autohaus in Dubai to explore with larger cooling hats from Porsche racing catalog, they will get back to me on that.