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C&D G.O.A.T. = 991.2 GT3, not 911R

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Old 06-20-2020, 10:09 PM
  #61  
evilfij
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Originally Posted by GrantG
I love my 2018 GT3 Manual, but that is a strange list of the best (or most important) 4 Porsches in the last 65 years! Even among 993's, the 1995 is the least desirable year (aside from RS), imo. I guess it was the first (in USA, but '94 in RoW). I'm not sure if the .2 GT3 should be on that list or not, but the other 3 would certainly not be on My list.
As a 95 993 owner, in the US, they have the huge advantage of not being OBD2 so they don’t have the secondary air check engine light which plagues 96-98 993. They also don’t have varioram, which costs a few HP, but also eliminates another failure point.

In light of this, I specifically sought out a 95 993. To me, it’s peak aircooled, or at least the most reliable aircooled (no valve adjustments needed like the 964).
Old 06-20-2020, 11:15 PM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by evilfij
As a 95 993 owner, in the US, they have the huge advantage of not being OBD2 so they don’t have the secondary air check engine light which plagues 96-98 993. They also don’t have varioram, which costs a few HP, but also eliminates another failure point.

In light of this, I specifically sought out a 95 993. To me, it’s peak aircooled, or at least the most reliable aircooled (no valve adjustments needed like the 964).
Fair enough - I think peak air-cooled was 1973, but variety is the spice of life
Old 06-21-2020, 12:31 AM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by GrantG
The sizes were spotted on 992 GT3 running the Ring (and parked on the shoulder). They’ll have new Cup sizes and compound (but not R, imo)
this makes me sad : (
Old 06-21-2020, 04:08 AM
  #64  
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everyone can make a list of xxx
we all have different metrics
I have owned all the. porsche on the GOAT list, and many other's variious RL poster mentioned
some car are considered as GOAT by many, but really lack luster to me.
964RS for example is really meh...
993RS or 993GT2Evo, yah!
but that's MY list
you can have your list.
don't assume magazine writers know more than you do. they often don't.
Old 06-21-2020, 04:37 AM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by GrantG
Fair enough - I think peak air-cooled was 1973, but variety is the spice of life
Had a long hood, 71, never again with a non-galvanized porsche.
Old 06-21-2020, 05:40 PM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by fbroen
I do like this a lot. Depending on color a bit Guards is a great candidate for it. Well done. Curious, did you render with the front air intake bits red also / why did you decide against them? For me, paiting the bits makes it look a bit more classic / 997, which is not a bad thing!
Thank you. I did consider painting the black plastic part of the front air intakes. I tested it with a temporary red color, but I didn't like the look, which ultimately looked too artificial and aftermarket. Plus the black does go with the black/grey of the air intakes, my headlights, etc.

But the painting the lower part of the side mirrors, wing endplates, and engine airtakes looks OEM, because my guy did a great job, and because that's the paint scheme from the factory on my 991.1 GT3, and 997 GT3s, etc.
Old 06-21-2020, 06:56 PM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by evilfij
Had a long hood, 71, never again with a non-galvanized porsche.
Yeah, it's a big risk. My current 73 is from a dry climate and has never had any rust (nor rust repairs needed). But, but the average car of the era is certainly not like that...
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Old 06-21-2020, 08:11 PM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by Dr.Bill
I guess they didn't drive the RS.
Seriously though 🤦‍♂️🤘

Last edited by Dot23RS; 06-21-2020 at 11:45 PM.
Old 06-21-2020, 09:06 PM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by evilfij
Had a long hood, 71, never again with a non-galvanized porsche.
I just bake it into part of the maintenance to have it visually inspected and repaired if anything found. I mean, if you are wanting a 911 you can leave parked outside, a 70's 911 is not your car for sure (although surprisingly i saw them street parked in London all the time, which i thought was bizarre). Hell, even driving a 50yr old car in much anything other than nice weather is kinda silly. At this point, MOST of the 60/70's 911 are nice-weather only cars. They have limitations as all-weather DD's above and beyond potential rust problems.
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Old 06-22-2020, 02:38 AM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by Jrtaylor9
I just bake it into part of the maintenance to have it visually inspected and repaired if anything found. I mean, if you are wanting a 911 you can leave parked outside, a 70's 911 is not your car for sure (although surprisingly i saw them street parked in London all the time, which i thought was bizarre). Hell, even driving a 50yr old car in much anything other than nice weather is kinda silly. At this point, MOST of the 60/70's 911 are nice-weather only cars. They have limitations as all-weather DD's above and beyond potential rust problems.
Having seen the insides of sills and front pans on dry cars from dry climates, they all rusted, it’s just degrees from some paint bubbles and stuff you can’t see (yet) to Swiss cheese. Meanwhile, you can dump a 77 plus shell in a field, and it will have fewer rust issues than the average long hood. ;-)

I have learned my lessons. No non-galvanized bodies, no magnesium engine cases, no prior accident damage or paint work. :-)

If you do have a long hood, you could keep it relatively rust free, but you would need to cavity wax/waxoyl/rust proof it and stick it in a dehumidified and climate controlled garage in Arizona.
Old 06-22-2020, 11:19 AM
  #71  
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Well, I guess if that’s the case, I’m glad my 69e is at least the runt of my litter by quite a lot; and if it turns to Swiss cheese, I’m out a bad maintenance appointment for the CGT. I do have mine inspected for rust regularly and addressed whenever anything has been found (which was once: the first time). Maybe I’m lucky it spent the bulk of its life in SoCal and most of the rest in TX? But, I hear ya: it is a risk factor that is inherent to the car. So is the low-rpm vibration issue in a 3.8/4.0 LWFW Mezger. So are a host of potential when/not-if maintenance issues in a CGT. Maybe I’m drawn to high-risk maintenance cars? Idk?
Old 06-22-2020, 11:42 AM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by Jrtaylor9
Well, I guess if that’s the case, I’m glad my 69e is at least the runt of my litter by quite a lot; and if it turns to Swiss cheese, I’m out a bad maintenance appointment for the CGT. I do have mine inspected for rust regularly and addressed whenever anything has been found (which was once: the first time). Maybe I’m lucky it spent the bulk of its life in SoCal and most of the rest in TX? But, I hear ya: it is a risk factor that is inherent to the car. So is the low-rpm vibration issue in a 3.8/4.0 LWFW Mezger. So are a host of potential when/not-if maintenance issues in a CGT. Maybe I’m drawn to high-risk maintenance cars? Idk?
I have a one owner no rust, no stories, no hits '69E (runt) arriving tomorrow. Looking forward to it. 981 Spyder is still under appreciated and great value right now. The 718 Spyder, essentially the same platform, a few more HP but heavier and is $40k (USD) more. 991.2 GT3 MT is excellent and will remain. 992 will be faster but the platform is getting so far from what I know to be a 911 it doesn't work for me.
Old 06-22-2020, 11:44 AM
  #73  
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Congrats. It won't make any lists but I love my 69e. Given your history of 911 ownership, I'm sure you know what you are getting but regardless, i hope you love it. We both agree on the 981 Spyder. I sold my UK version when I left but probably miss that car more than anything I've sold before.
Old 06-22-2020, 11:49 AM
  #74  
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981 spyder and my 69e most fun/$ I've ever owned.
Old 06-22-2020, 11:50 AM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by evilfij
Having seen the insides of sills and front pans on dry cars from dry climates, they all rusted, it’s just degrees from some paint bubbles and stuff you can’t see (yet) to Swiss cheese. Meanwhile, you can dump a 77 plus shell in a field, and it will have fewer rust issues than the average long hood. ;-)

I have learned my lessons. No non-galvanized bodies, no magnesium engine cases, no prior accident damage or paint work. :-)

If you do have a long hood, you could keep it relatively rust free, but you would need to cavity wax/waxoyl/rust proof it and stick it in a dehumidified and climate controlled garage in Arizona.
Amen. You don’t read stuff like this in magazines and the cost of restoring rust damage is eye watering. The long hoods are great cars but now that they are commanding premium prices you need to look very carefully before you leap.
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