How do I fix this power steering leak? 987.2 base
#17
Those crimp style fittings are apparently a common failure point for these lines on the 987s. I just recently had to replace the return line due to a leak at the same crimp fitting. Took a bit to track it down.
What a mess, and a serious pain in the butt to do. You need to have a special tool to separate the line from the connector under the drivers seat area. I made a tool myself and it took most of a day to replace this on my own from start to finish. I paid around $351USD shipped for the p/s like from a Porsche parts dealership on the west coast. Saw they can run up to $6-800 with shipping from some dealers. I can dig up where I bought my p/s line from if you need. I know they had both lines in stock a few months back when I replaced my leaking line.
What a mess, and a serious pain in the butt to do. You need to have a special tool to separate the line from the connector under the drivers seat area. I made a tool myself and it took most of a day to replace this on my own from start to finish. I paid around $351USD shipped for the p/s like from a Porsche parts dealership on the west coast. Saw they can run up to $6-800 with shipping from some dealers. I can dig up where I bought my p/s line from if you need. I know they had both lines in stock a few months back when I replaced my leaking line.
How does this compression fitting work and what is the trick to release it?
Is removing the line from the steering rack as simple as removing the one hex/torx bolt and pulling the old line out?
How did you refill the system to get the air out? Just a lot of neutral low rpm revs, occasional stationary turning, and adding fluid?
Thanks.
Last edited by XuTVJet; 07-25-2024 at 01:54 PM.
#18
Rennlist Member
@XuTVJet : The system is self bleeding, in this case. Indeed, add fluid, start the car (no need to rev the engine, just have it run to make the power steering pump work), then turn the wheels lock to lock a few times to get fluid all through the system. Top up the reservoir as needed.
Cheers
Cheers
The following users liked this post:
t_white (07-27-2024)
#20
How does everyone feel about using power steering leak stop, such as the brand made by Liqui Moly?
I am reluctant to put anything like that in my power steering system. The very last thing I want to do is fix a leak cheaply just to jeopardize the whole power steering system.
I am reluctant to put anything like that in my power steering system. The very last thing I want to do is fix a leak cheaply just to jeopardize the whole power steering system.
#21
Drifting
@nicetheory
In your case I don't think it will work. You leak doesn't appear to be the result of seepage past seals, it's a damaged line. Not sure on the compatibility either but that could be resolved with a quick email to Liqui Moly.
Dude, you need a new line.
Originally Posted by Liqui Moly Leak Stop
Keeps rubber and plastic seals in hydraulic power steering systems soft and pliable. Leaks caused by hardened and brittle seals are prevented or eliminated. Cleans internal oil passages to allow proper oil flow, reduces noise levels and extends service life while reducing repair costs
Suitable for steering gears that are filled with Dexron II, Dexron III, Dexron VI or central hydraulic system oils. Add to the compensating reservoir of the steering system.
Suitable for steering gears that are filled with Dexron II, Dexron III, Dexron VI or central hydraulic system oils. Add to the compensating reservoir of the steering system.
In your case I don't think it will work. You leak doesn't appear to be the result of seepage past seals, it's a damaged line. Not sure on the compatibility either but that could be resolved with a quick email to Liqui Moly.
Dude, you need a new line.
The following users liked this post:
t_white (07-27-2024)
#22
Rennlist Member
@nicetheory : I'm with you, I would also be reluctant to put that in my power steering system. A new, or rebuilt, line will give you peace of mind for years.
Cheers
Cheers
The following users liked this post:
nicetheory (07-26-2024)
#23
Do you have a 987.1 or 987.2? Are they the same lines? Wondering if I’d need a unique tool to do the work.
I’ve still not cleaned off the lines but I did want to update everyone on my results from trying to clear any air from the system. I drove the car today and the power steering groaning is noticeably improved at low single mph speeds but not totally gone. At a stop, it still makes sound when turning the wheel but more of a binding noise than a groan. The overall wheel also feels a little lighter and smoother to turn at all speeds, which I was not expecting. All in all a very good result but not a total cure for the power steering noise.
I’ve still not cleaned off the lines but I did want to update everyone on my results from trying to clear any air from the system. I drove the car today and the power steering groaning is noticeably improved at low single mph speeds but not totally gone. At a stop, it still makes sound when turning the wheel but more of a binding noise than a groan. The overall wheel also feels a little lighter and smoother to turn at all speeds, which I was not expecting. All in all a very good result but not a total cure for the power steering noise.
I would really recommend not driving the car until you get this fixed. P/S fluid is a mess if it gets all under the car.. also if you run the pump and rack dry you are risking a very expensive and way more labor intensive fix.
Is everything accessible once the under panels are removed?
How does this compression fitting work and what is the trick to release it?
Is removing the line from the steering rack as simple as removing the one hex/torx bolt and pulling the old line out?
How did you refill the system to get the air out? Just a lot of neutral low rpm revs, occasional stationary turning, and adding fluid?
Thanks.
How does this compression fitting work and what is the trick to release it?
Is removing the line from the steering rack as simple as removing the one hex/torx bolt and pulling the old line out?
How did you refill the system to get the air out? Just a lot of neutral low rpm revs, occasional stationary turning, and adding fluid?
Thanks.
The line pulls right out once that single bolt is removed from the rack. Pretty easy to remove that, but you might want some extensions and a flex joint adapter. I opted not to remove this until I got the other fitting apart under the drivers seat area, to drain the p/s fluid. Much easier to catch the fluid there, than from the rack.
For filling, just keep topping off the p/s reservoir and turning the wheel full lock left and right a few times, then go back and fill more. You should only need one bottle to fill the whole system ($30 on Amazon). Just run the car for a while and turn the wheel so you can ensure nothing is leaking before putting all the underbody panels back on.
How does everyone feel about using power steering leak stop, such as the brand made by Liqui Moly?
I am reluctant to put anything like that in my power steering system. The very last thing I want to do is fix a leak cheaply just to jeopardize the whole power steering system.
I am reluctant to put anything like that in my power steering system. The very last thing I want to do is fix a leak cheaply just to jeopardize the whole power steering system.
Last edited by t_white; 07-27-2024 at 02:06 PM.
The following users liked this post:
nicetheory (09-10-2024)
#24
Damn, nice find! This looks like it should work. Trying to make my own out of a plastic interior pull tool was a PITA and took forever since it was flexing too much. For $70 this is a solid time and frustration savings, lol. Highly recommend buying this tool.
Last edited by t_white; 07-27-2024 at 02:09 PM.
#25
@t_white thanks for posting those pictures. I have the parts ready, but I have two questions I hope you or someone else with experience is able to answer before I take a stab at performing the repair.
- Is everything accessible once the under panels are removed?
- Is removing the line from the steering rack as simple as removing the one hex/torx bolt and pulling the old line out?
#26
Your leak is coming from the crimp at the rubber line. This is getting to be a common issue with older 996s at the high pressure side - the rubber gets old and fails at the crimp slowly like this if you're lucky. You need to replace with new this cannot be repaired via re-crimp.
The groaning you're hearing could be the pump damaged from running dry.
#27
@nicetheory looks like our Cayman's have the same issues, 2009 Cayman S, 110,000KM , I noticed the same leak few weeks ago and took it to the dealership there were no groaning noise, although the leak was coming from the crimps but they suggested to change the full hose, both of them high and low pressure.
it cost me about $445 Labor and $1000 parts (CDN).
if helps these are the P/N I see on invoice.
997-347-451-14 Pressure Line
987-347-449-13 Return line
996-347-769-02 Line Holder
900-067-063-03 Pan-Head Screw M10x20
000-043-305-74 Pentosin CHF 11S
it cost me about $445 Labor and $1000 parts (CDN).
if helps these are the P/N I see on invoice.
997-347-451-14 Pressure Line
987-347-449-13 Return line
996-347-769-02 Line Holder
900-067-063-03 Pan-Head Screw M10x20
000-043-305-74 Pentosin CHF 11S
The following users liked this post:
nicetheory (09-18-2024)
#28
My power steering leak is finally fixed after all this time. I replaced the leaky lower high pressure power steering line and went for a drive. Happy to report everything held up nicely. The leak is gone and the groaning noises I wrote about in my first post are completely gone.
I also think my steering feels a bit lighter on center but that may be placebo effect. I'll take what I can get.
My advice for anyone wanting to replace their lower power steering lines is to be patient. This is not a difficult repair, but it really was slow-going for me without a lift. I had my car on four jack stands and it took me the better part of two evenings to finish due to all the shimmying around I was doing on my back.
The trickiest part for me was maneuvering the steering-rack side of the line up into its place from beneath the car. There is space, but the line's shape makes it a little challenging to get past the return line. Here's a picture of the area I'm talking about. My old lower high pressure steering line is marked red, and the return line is adjacent to it. It can be done, and having a lift really would have made it easier.
I also think my steering feels a bit lighter on center but that may be placebo effect. I'll take what I can get.
My advice for anyone wanting to replace their lower power steering lines is to be patient. This is not a difficult repair, but it really was slow-going for me without a lift. I had my car on four jack stands and it took me the better part of two evenings to finish due to all the shimmying around I was doing on my back.
The trickiest part for me was maneuvering the steering-rack side of the line up into its place from beneath the car. There is space, but the line's shape makes it a little challenging to get past the return line. Here's a picture of the area I'm talking about. My old lower high pressure steering line is marked red, and the return line is adjacent to it. It can be done, and having a lift really would have made it easier.
The following 3 users liked this post by nicetheory: