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Those crimp style fittings are apparently a common failure point for these lines on the 987s. I just recently had to replace the return line due to a leak at the same crimp fitting. Took a bit to track it down.
What a mess, and a serious pain in the butt to do. You need to have a special tool to separate the line from the connector under the drivers seat area. I made a tool myself and it took most of a day to replace this on my own from start to finish. I paid around $351USD shipped for the p/s like from a Porsche parts dealership on the west coast. Saw they can run up to $6-800 with shipping from some dealers. I can dig up where I bought my p/s line from if you need. I know they had both lines in stock a few months back when I replaced my leaking line.
Is everything accessible once the under panels are removed?
How does this compression fitting work and what is the trick to release it?
Is removing the line from the steering rack as simple as removing the one hex/torx bolt and pulling the old line out?
How did you refill the system to get the air out? Just a lot of neutral low rpm revs, occasional stationary turning, and adding fluid?
@XuTVJet : The system is self bleeding, in this case. Indeed, add fluid, start the car (no need to rev the engine, just have it run to make the power steering pump work), then turn the wheels lock to lock a few times to get fluid all through the system. Top up the reservoir as needed.
How does everyone feel about using power steering leak stop, such as the brand made by Liqui Moly?
I am reluctant to put anything like that in my power steering system. The very last thing I want to do is fix a leak cheaply just to jeopardize the whole power steering system.
Keeps rubber and plastic seals in hydraulic power steering systems soft and pliable. Leaks caused by hardened and brittle seals are prevented or eliminated. Cleans internal oil passages to allow proper oil flow, reduces noise levels and extends service life while reducing repair costs
Suitable for steering gears that are filled with Dexron II, Dexron III, Dexron VI or central hydraulic system oils. Add to the compensating reservoir of the steering system.
In your case I don't think it will work. You leak doesn't appear to be the result of seepage past seals, it's a damaged line. Not sure on the compatibility either but that could be resolved with a quick email to Liqui Moly.
@nicetheory : I'm with you, I would also be reluctant to put that in my power steering system. A new, or rebuilt, line will give you peace of mind for years.
Do you have a 987.1 or 987.2? Are they the same lines? Wondering if I’d need a unique tool to do the work.
I’ve still not cleaned off the lines but I did want to update everyone on my results from trying to clear any air from the system. I drove the car today and the power steering groaning is noticeably improved at low single mph speeds but not totally gone. At a stop, it still makes sound when turning the wheel but more of a binding noise than a groan. The overall wheel also feels a little lighter and smoother to turn at all speeds, which I was not expecting. All in all a very good result but not a total cure for the power steering noise.
I have a 987.2 Base. Apparently the .2’s have this style line and the earlier cars had a different style where you could actually use wrenches to separate the line under the car. Just our luck..
I would really recommend not driving the car until you get this fixed. P/S fluid is a mess if it gets all under the car.. also if you run the pump and rack dry you are risking a very expensive and way more labor intensive fix.
Originally Posted by XuTVJet
Is everything accessible once the under panels are removed?
How does this compression fitting work and what is the trick to release it?
Is removing the line from the steering rack as simple as removing the one hex/torx bolt and pulling the old line out?
How did you refill the system to get the air out? Just a lot of neutral low rpm revs, occasional stationary turning, and adding fluid?
Thanks.
Yes, you need to remove the long panel on the drivers side and the panel under the front of the car (to make access easy). I wouldn’t do this job again unless I had a lift. Laying on the ground that much to do this wasn’t very fun. It also made for an awkward angle to try and work the fitting apart. With a lift this job should have taken 1/2 the time IMO.
The line pulls right out once that single bolt is removed from the rack. Pretty easy to remove that, but you might want some extensions and a flex joint adapter. I opted not to remove this until I got the other fitting apart under the drivers seat area, to drain the p/s fluid. Much easier to catch the fluid there, than from the rack.
For filling, just keep topping off the p/s reservoir and turning the wheel full lock left and right a few times, then go back and fill more. You should only need one bottle to fill the whole system ($30 on Amazon). Just run the car for a while and turn the wheel so you can ensure nothing is leaking before putting all the underbody panels back on.
Originally Posted by nicetheory
How does everyone feel about using power steering leak stop, such as the brand made by Liqui Moly?
I am reluctant to put anything like that in my power steering system. The very last thing I want to do is fix a leak cheaply just to jeopardize the whole power steering system.
It’s not going to fix that.. These crimp fittings are known to get leaks. You can either replace the entire section or remove and have a shop fix. Personally… I wasn’t going to take it to a shop to pay about the same (or maybe a bit less) to have them redo the fitting.. then spend all the time to reinstall just to find out it leaks still. I went with an OEM replacement assuming it would at least last many more years.. or at least through my ownership.
Damn, nice find! This looks like it should work. Trying to make my own out of a plastic interior pull tool was a PITA and took forever since it was flexing too much. For $70 this is a solid time and frustration savings, lol. Highly recommend buying this tool.
@t_white thanks for posting those pictures. I have the parts ready, but I have two questions I hope you or someone else with experience is able to answer before I take a stab at performing the repair.
Is everything accessible once the under panels are removed?
Is removing the line from the steering rack as simple as removing the one hex/torx bolt and pulling the old line out?
Here’s a slow-motion GIF of the leak made from the video in my last post. Is it coming from the crimp or higher up? What would be higher up?
Again, pardon the viewing orientation.. I promise gravity isn’t sideways in my part of the world.
Your leak is coming from the crimp at the rubber line. This is getting to be a common issue with older 996s at the high pressure side - the rubber gets old and fails at the crimp slowly like this if you're lucky. You need to replace with new this cannot be repaired via re-crimp.
The groaning you're hearing could be the pump damaged from running dry.
07-25-2024, 01:52 PM
