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The vehicle's power steering remains functional and it's easy to turn the wheel but there is some groaning when turning at low speeds. The power steering reservoir was bone dry not so long ago and I've recently filled it up. Didn't really seem to help the groaning, but I can confirm there aren't any leaks around the power steering pump itself.
To fix the groaning in the short term, make sure that you turn the wheels lock to lock a few times after you've filled the reservoir. That will help to get fluid circulated throughout the system and eliminate the air, which is what causes the groaning.
As for the leak, it really depends on where it's coming from. It doesn't look like it's coming from the crimped end of the hose, where the soft line meets the hard line. Rather, it looks quite a bit like it's coming from the junction of the hardline to the pump. I don't know that connection style very well, but my guess is that there is an o ring that needs replacing on the end of that hardline.
ETA: PET for your year indicates this part number - 997 347 945 00, comprising a spring and an o ring, for the end of that link (I think, based on your picture).
Cheers
Last edited by Zirconocene; 07-22-2024 at 07:31 PM.
To fix the groaning in the short term, make sure that you turn the wheels lock to lock a few times after you've filled the reservoir. That will help to get fluid circulated throughout the system and eliminate the air, which is what causes the groaning.
As for the leak, it really depends on where it's coming from. It doesn't look like it's coming from the crimped end of the hose, where the soft line meets the hard line. Rather, it looks quite a bit like it's coming from the junction of the hardline to the pump. I don't know that connection style very well, but my guess is that there is an o ring that needs replacing on the end of that hardline.
ETA: PET for your year indicates this part number - 997 347 945 00, comprising a spring and an o ring, for the end of that link (I think, based on your picture).
Cheers
I will do the lock-to-lock turns a few times and report back if it resolved the groaning. I did not do this when I refilled my reservoir, so I'm hoping that fixes it.
Fixing this leak for that $50-or-so part you found would be fantastic. Like you said, it's difficult to say what's leaking. I think I'll wash the area with some engine cleaner and water then go for a drive to see where it leaks.
ETA: PET for your year indicates this part number - 997 347 945 00, comprising a spring and an o ring, for the end of that link (I think, based on your picture).
Cheers
Not to be dense, but how did you find/validate this part number? When I google it, I find that 9P1-698-009 supersedes it and that it won't fit my 2009 Cayman, just the manual 911s from 2010-2013. Example: 2010-2013 Porsche 911 Repair Kit 9P1-698-009 | OEM Parts Online
Reporting in that I performed the wheel lock-to-lock about 40 times with the power steering cap off and engine running. Backed the car onto some cardboard so the tires had less friction to turn. Still need to take a drive to see if groaning is gone, but I’ll say I didn’t hear any groaning with it stationary while turning on cardboard.
Unfortunately all this pressure from turning the wheel made it leak more. I suppose that is what leaks do. I took this picture on an incline with the front end higher than the rear. Some power steering fluid dripped onto the cement, and I was able to get this picture.
There's a dropdown menu down the page a little bit that will help you choose your model and model year, then let you download a pdf with all the different systems and parts associated with that system. My downloaded document may be out of date.
They're basically using the PET diagrams that you downloaded, but there's a dealer version of PET that is updated much more often and will have supercessions kept much more up to date.
Failing all that I find that Rose Passion is also a good source for information, as they tend to have actual pictures of the parts on their website (you'll see that as you hover over the diagram, it's pretty slick). As a plus, even with being in Europe, their prices and shipping times tend to be quite good: https://www.rosepassion.com/en/diagr...ing-lines-5144
BUT - Unfortunately, I'm not sure if the part we're discussing is the actual part that is leaking. See my prior post with an image. I'm leaning towards the coupling at the blue arrow or yellow arrow in the markup below being the car part that's leaking but I could be very wrong. In looking at the diagram, I don't see the repair kit at #10 applying to where I think the leak is. But what do I know? I can't say with confidence which line in my picture matches the lines in the diagram.
I think you're right, after seeing your updated picture.
It looks like that part is available from Porsche, but you may also be able to find a local hydraulic hose shop that can rebuild that for you. There's nothing particularly special about the hose and crimp, and the hard lines can be reused.
I'd suggest you clean the area thoroughly, remove the wheel and then watch when a volunteer turns the wheel. My money is on the #10 item (red arrow). My rationale:
1. The lines look dirty all the way up to the pump. liquids can go uphill through surface tension, but not generally that far uphill.
2. Both lines are dirty/leaking. They share a joint at the pump. Unlikely for both to go bad.
3. Porsche is offering a "repair kit" for that junction. There's a reason...
Those crimp style fittings are apparently a common failure point for these lines on the 987s. I just recently had to replace the return line due to a leak at the same crimp fitting. Took a bit to track it down.
What a mess, and a serious pain in the butt to do. You need to have a special tool to separate the line from the connector under the drivers seat area. I made a tool myself and it took most of a day to replace this on my own from start to finish. I paid around $351USD shipped for the p/s like from a Porsche parts dealership on the west coast. Saw they can run up to $6-800 with shipping from some dealers. I can dig up where I bought my p/s line from if you need. I know they had both lines in stock a few months back when I replaced my leaking line.
Do you have a 987.1 or 987.2? Are they the same lines? Wondering if I’d need a unique tool to do the work.
I’ve still not cleaned off the lines but I did want to update everyone on my results from trying to clear any air from the system. I drove the car today and the power steering groaning is noticeably improved at low single mph speeds but not totally gone. At a stop, it still makes sound when turning the wheel but more of a binding noise than a groan. The overall wheel also feels a little lighter and smoother to turn at all speeds, which I was not expecting. All in all a very good result but not a total cure for the power steering noise.
I'd suggest you clean the area thoroughly, remove the wheel and then watch when a volunteer turns the wheel. My money is on the #10 item (red arrow). My rationale:
1. The lines look dirty all the way up to the pump. liquids can go uphill through surface tension, but not generally that far uphill.
2. Both lines are dirty/leaking. They share a joint at the pump. Unlikely for both to go bad.
3. Porsche is offering a "repair kit" for that junction. There's a reason...
I was going to suggest the exact same thing. Clean it up, dry it with brake cleaner or IPA, and watch where fluid is coming from. However, my money is on the red arrow part. My rationale:
It's a Porsche, it's always the most expensive part.....
Originally Posted by Nice Theory
Wondering if I’d need a unique tool to do the work.
Yes, to disconnect the line at the other end you need a special tool. Either order it from Porsche or build your own. There might be generic ones out there to purchase as well but I am not sure on the correct size to get. The Porsche tool is 00072197800 and, as expected, is ridiculously over priced for what it is. I think there is a thread on how to make your own somewhere. Last note, don't disconnect the AC line beside it by accident.
Got the area cleaned and had my wife turn the wheel while I recorded this video of the leak.
Probably need to do this again with the wheel off to get a better view and proper orientation, but it looks like the leak is coming from the top crimp when the wheel hits lock.
Based on this I’m thinking it’s the blue arrow at the moment, not the red arrow.