Below are photos of my inner CV joints. Both sides are leaking/spitting grease from the seal on that inner portion of the boot. (This after only 45k miles).
I'm thinking that simply removing the clamp at the inner end of the boot, perhaps squirting in a bit new grease, and replacing the clamp would fix this.
A couple of questions... does the type of clamp at the link below open up fully so that I can get it around the cv joint without actually disconnecting the joint? (I've never used this type of clamp). And is the tool in the 2nd link the right tool (although pricey), and how do you know when it's tight enough?
Thanks!

https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_In...=0&SVSVSI=4293
https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_In...=0&SVSVSI=4293

Answer 1 - yes, that kind can be opened and installed on an already assembled boot - these are used on the intake boots on my BMW motorcycle.. they are also reusable.
Answer 2 - that tool is excessively complex There are much simpler tools that cost a bunch less. Look for Oetiker clamp pliers. Lots of them on Amazon. Here is an entire set including the bands..

^ Thank you!

One follow-on question, since I've only lost a little grease, my thinking is to just add a bit of make-up grease. How critical is it that i match the porsche OEM grease, and if it is critical does anyone know where i can find the porsche OEM grease or substitute?

Found the OEM grease... part number 00004330545... pricey, but since i'm adding grease, i'll stick with that grease.

If you don't mind, could you post pictures on how you do it? Mine leaked grease last year and I just had a shop do it because they were doing my suspension at the same time. I thought about doing it myself but wasn't sure how easy/messy it would get.

So my plan has been interrupted. I tried to get the OEM grease through my local dealer but they have to get it from Germany and weren't able to tell me how long it would take.
A couple of additional questions...
-I was hoping to add only a bit of grease to what is in the CV joint already to make-up what has spit out. Does anyone know what grease(s) would be compatible with the Porsche grease. Do you think any reputable CV joint grease would be OK to mix?
-Should I just remove all/most of the grease and repack with different/new grease? Was hoping to avoid this messy process. Anyone know how many grams of grease 1 inner joint takes?

Thanks!

I completed this project. Here's what I ended up doing.
-removed 2 diagonal braces and support plate
-changed manual transmission fluid
(noticed the above cv joints' grease leaking around the inner clamps on the inner boots)
-carefully cut-off old clamps with a dremel tool at the tab the locked the clamp around the boot
-since i couldn't get the OEM grease in a timely manner, i chose to not add any new grease. I judged that what spit out was not significant and i didn't want to risk mixing an incompatible grease, and i didn't want to totally dissassemble the joint to clean it out and redo grease from scratch. When sliding off the boot to take a look at the actual cv joint, seem like a good bit of grease was in there.
-replaced the clamp with a new 'ear-type' clamp. Amazing how difficult it is to find such a clamp (no local stores carried one). Finally sourced one at RMEuropean online. Also bought a pair of Lisle boot clamp pliers on Amazon, and applied 40 ft lbs torque to close the ears on the clamp - seemed to be sufficient closure of the clamp. (I raised each tire/wheel to make the driveshaft ~horizontal on the side i was installing the new clamp on, to help hold the boot in place).
(crossing my fingers for no further grease leaks)


After removing the old clamp, you can slide the boot off to inspect the joint.

Old clamp, removed.

New clamp installed (pre-closed)

With clamp ears 'closed'.

I'm accused of being an optimist. Probably guilty. But I honestly believe that was a legitimate repair in every way. If/when the CV fails, it wouldn't be related to the previous tear, minimum loss of grease, or the repair you accomplished. Well done.

What cinch tool did you end up using and how hard was it to cinch? That clamp looks similar to what I use on PEX piping and the tool is a complete bear to compress. Hard to get enough leverage to tighten the clamp properly. Some hydraulic assistance would certainly be welcome for PEX.

EDIT: Now I see you used a Lisle Boot Clamp pliers and used a torque wrench. Interesting. Looks like the longer handle on a torque wrench could give you some additional leverage and 40 ft-lbs sounds pretty reasonable anyway.

Beautifully done... and excellent pictures as well.

I just realized the final photo previously posted actually doesn't have the clamp closed. I've added a photo where the clamp is actually closed in its final state.
As noted, i used the below tool to close the clamps. Advantage is that you can apply more torque to close the clamp by adding wrenches to the tools 1/2" square.

And, like Snakebit, I'm optimistic that this will work.