18" track wheel for my spyder: which one?
#106
#107
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
#108
Rennlist Member
Joe, Bensf, Vetman, and any others using harnesses in their Spyder:
I see you guys have your shoulder harnesses attached to the factory roll bar as I used to do. But I recently fabricated a very easy and inexpensive "harness bar" for my Spyder.
It mounts between the 2 main factory bars that are behind the seat or behind the carpeted panel that is just below the cross bars where you mounted your harnesses. Its about $25 in parts and a couple hours to make it and install it. I will try and take some pictures of it in the next day or so if you guys have any interest in it.
I see you guys have your shoulder harnesses attached to the factory roll bar as I used to do. But I recently fabricated a very easy and inexpensive "harness bar" for my Spyder.
It mounts between the 2 main factory bars that are behind the seat or behind the carpeted panel that is just below the cross bars where you mounted your harnesses. Its about $25 in parts and a couple hours to make it and install it. I will try and take some pictures of it in the next day or so if you guys have any interest in it.
#109
GT3 player par excellence
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
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Finally took delivery of a second set of track wheels. These are the Fikse Contour 10.
Attachment 676854
Attachment 676854
#110
GT3 player par excellence
Lifetime Rennlist
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Lifetime Rennlist
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Why does Porsche use bolts instead of studs? Swapping wheels is such a pain.
==> not sure. up to 993, they used studs.
==> not sure. up to 993, they used studs.
#111
Joe, Bensf, Vetman, and any others using harnesses in their Spyder:
I see you guys have your shoulder harnesses attached to the factory roll bar as I used to do. But I recently fabricated a very easy and inexpensive "harness bar" for my Spyder.
It mounts between the 2 main factory bars that are behind the seat or behind the carpeted panel that is just below the cross bars where you mounted your harnesses. Its about $25 in parts and a couple hours to make it and install it. I will try and take some pictures of it in the next day or so if you guys have any interest in it.
I see you guys have your shoulder harnesses attached to the factory roll bar as I used to do. But I recently fabricated a very easy and inexpensive "harness bar" for my Spyder.
It mounts between the 2 main factory bars that are behind the seat or behind the carpeted panel that is just below the cross bars where you mounted your harnesses. Its about $25 in parts and a couple hours to make it and install it. I will try and take some pictures of it in the next day or so if you guys have any interest in it.
#112
#113
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Joe, Bensf, Vetman, and any others using harnesses in their Spyder:
I see you guys have your shoulder harnesses attached to the factory roll bar as I used to do. But I recently fabricated a very easy and inexpensive "harness bar" for my Spyder.
It mounts between the 2 main factory bars that are behind the seat or behind the carpeted panel that is just below the cross bars where you mounted your harnesses. Its about $25 in parts and a couple hours to make it and install it. I will try and take some pictures of it in the next day or so if you guys have any interest in it.
I see you guys have your shoulder harnesses attached to the factory roll bar as I used to do. But I recently fabricated a very easy and inexpensive "harness bar" for my Spyder.
It mounts between the 2 main factory bars that are behind the seat or behind the carpeted panel that is just below the cross bars where you mounted your harnesses. Its about $25 in parts and a couple hours to make it and install it. I will try and take some pictures of it in the next day or so if you guys have any interest in it.
#114
Rennlist Member
Here are some pics from my phone.
I have removed the carpeted piece of foam. I did trim it first and made it fit when the harnesses are rolled up and stuffed behind this bar.
This is a ROUGH "prototype".
I plan to make it look a bit nicer by using some more finished looking pieces to wrap around the roll bar where the u-bolt is. And also use either a black u-bolt or something that looks better.
But anyway, here is what I did:
Went to machine shop and asked them for a piece of tubing 47" long (I am not 100% sure on the length - might be 46")
Got some rubber heater hose and some u-bolts from the hardware store. And also some plastic plugs for the ends of the steel bar.
I notched the steel bar where it attaches to the factory roll bar, drilled holes for the u-bolt, wrapped the heater hose around the roll bar to protect the paint, and then bolted the bar in.
This is a quick description.
I will try and do a more detailed explanation when I have a little more time and also verify the size of the steel and the u-bolts.
I plan on trying to get some urethane bushing or something like that to replace the heater hose, and try to find some grade 8 u-bolts to use. Then paint the u-bolts black or maybe use some shrink tubing to cover them.
This design is very simple and effective in my opinion, but I do not guarantee the safety or make any other guarantees.
I have removed the carpeted piece of foam. I did trim it first and made it fit when the harnesses are rolled up and stuffed behind this bar.
This is a ROUGH "prototype".
I plan to make it look a bit nicer by using some more finished looking pieces to wrap around the roll bar where the u-bolt is. And also use either a black u-bolt or something that looks better.
But anyway, here is what I did:
Went to machine shop and asked them for a piece of tubing 47" long (I am not 100% sure on the length - might be 46")
Got some rubber heater hose and some u-bolts from the hardware store. And also some plastic plugs for the ends of the steel bar.
I notched the steel bar where it attaches to the factory roll bar, drilled holes for the u-bolt, wrapped the heater hose around the roll bar to protect the paint, and then bolted the bar in.
This is a quick description.
I will try and do a more detailed explanation when I have a little more time and also verify the size of the steel and the u-bolts.
I plan on trying to get some urethane bushing or something like that to replace the heater hose, and try to find some grade 8 u-bolts to use. Then paint the u-bolts black or maybe use some shrink tubing to cover them.
This design is very simple and effective in my opinion, but I do not guarantee the safety or make any other guarantees.
#116
Here are some pics from my phone.
I have removed the carpeted piece of foam. I did trim it first and made it fit when the harnesses are rolled up and stuffed behind this bar.
This is a ROUGH "prototype".
I plan to make it look a bit nicer by using some more finished looking pieces to wrap around the roll bar where the u-bolt is. And also use either a black u-bolt or something that looks better.
But anyway, here is what I did:
Went to machine shop and asked them for a piece of tubing 47" long (I am not 100% sure on the length - might be 46")
Got some rubber heater hose and some u-bolts from the hardware store. And also some plastic plugs for the ends of the steel bar.
I notched the steel bar where it attaches to the factory roll bar, drilled holes for the u-bolt, wrapped the heater hose around the roll bar to protect the paint, and then bolted the bar in.
This is a quick description.
I will try and do a more detailed explanation when I have a little more time and also verify the size of the steel and the u-bolts.
I plan on trying to get some urethane bushing or something like that to replace the heater hose, and try to find some grade 8 u-bolts to use. Then paint the u-bolts black or maybe use some shrink tubing to cover them.
This design is very simple and effective in my opinion, but I do not guarantee the safety or make any other guarantees.
I have removed the carpeted piece of foam. I did trim it first and made it fit when the harnesses are rolled up and stuffed behind this bar.
This is a ROUGH "prototype".
I plan to make it look a bit nicer by using some more finished looking pieces to wrap around the roll bar where the u-bolt is. And also use either a black u-bolt or something that looks better.
But anyway, here is what I did:
Went to machine shop and asked them for a piece of tubing 47" long (I am not 100% sure on the length - might be 46")
Got some rubber heater hose and some u-bolts from the hardware store. And also some plastic plugs for the ends of the steel bar.
I notched the steel bar where it attaches to the factory roll bar, drilled holes for the u-bolt, wrapped the heater hose around the roll bar to protect the paint, and then bolted the bar in.
This is a quick description.
I will try and do a more detailed explanation when I have a little more time and also verify the size of the steel and the u-bolts.
I plan on trying to get some urethane bushing or something like that to replace the heater hose, and try to find some grade 8 u-bolts to use. Then paint the u-bolts black or maybe use some shrink tubing to cover them.
This design is very simple and effective in my opinion, but I do not guarantee the safety or make any other guarantees.