chudson

I'm with Jeff - the factory placed it there for a reason. I would put it back. I'm glad the removal worked out OK.

John Etnier

In case it's any help, this dates from 2005. The email address is no longer valid...

calguy

Hi John,

Thank you for sharing the PDF. This does help alot specifically the installation section. I'll go ahead and give it a shot this weekend and show some before and after pics. So it looks like the windex/watery soap solution with the squeege option is not really necessary based off of the article. Did you try that approach and got the same results as just applying the peel and stick method? My bigest concern is getting any bubbles in there if I try the squeege method and not being able to get them out with the squeege.

Thanks ahead of time!

Calguy,
'80 924 N/A
'92 968 Cabriolet

dougs968

Calguy, the blade lab guys at my work, to avoid getting air bubbles use a piece of aluminum instead of a soft plastic spreader. The aluminum piece is best described as the shape of a wooden stir stick or paint paddle handle. About the same size but about 3 inches long 1/8 inch and very smooth radius where it will be in contact with the tape.

They will cut a piece of tape about 8' long, remove the tape backing as they apply the tape to the leading edge of the blade. Then the tape is worked from the center to the edges in about 2-3 inch sections. The aluminum tool is nothing special at all but you can direct a little more pressure to the tape.

I think you could scuff the tape if you got too carried away, but I think you would stretch the tape first. I'm not saying all this is the right way or the only way, just the way at my work.

Doug

jeff968

When you purchase the factory pieces you will find they are at least twice the thickness of the standard clear-bra. Because of this they don't tend to hold bubbles as the lubrication is easier to work to the sides. I used a decal application solution that I had purchased at an autobody supply store.
Jeff

John Etnier

Calguy- I put that pdf together 7 years ago: I don't remember any more than what was written there, sorry to say.

judge

I know it's a a bit late now, but instead of pushing a scraper, I recommend pulling through the gap between plastic and steel with a high quality dental tape. It's thinner side on than a dental floss and way strong enough to break the glue bond; plus there is no chance of doing any damage to the body. You will need to wera gloves while doing it though.

chudson

judge - if you are suggesting that dental tape could be used to remove the 20 year old factory protector, I would respectfully respond (and I think everyone else who has performed this procedure will agree) - near (if not completely) impossible. Or have I misunderstood your post?

968gene

I once used one of these with limited success...my stone guards were on an '88 944.
http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3...beRJ5GMFSMV0gl

judge

Heat, solvent and dental tape worked for me!

chudson

judge - awesome! I would never have dreamed it, at least not with the dental tape I've held in my hands, but that's cool. Questions.

What brand or type of dental tape?

Were your protectors original?

What solvent did you use?

How much time per side to remove?

I obviously didn't use your method, and can't conceive of how it would have worked on mine, but I have another set to do........

calguy

judge's method does sound like it would have been an equally (if not better) route to take. The method that I used was that which was described by Cliff on the first page of the posting. It worked well. The only deviation in the removal process was instead of using brake cleaner I used 3M's General Purpose Adhessive Remover, which is amazing stuff to remove stickers etc without damaging the paint surface. I used this solution once before to remove the bonding agent off the car's body left from the old seal on the rear hatch of my 924. It worked great, the only set back is that it has a strong ordor and I would strongly recommend to use outside or in a well ventilated area.

Other than that the whole process went like this:

1) Warm the area with a hair dryer
2) Spray the 3M General Purpose Adhessive Remover
3) Use the plastic scoop #368 which I had no problem finding at OSH (Orchard Supply & Hardware)
4) Repeat starting from step 1.

The whole process took about 2 hours to remove one side and the end result was that the surface looks like new (I'll snap some photos this weekend and post of the end result, I don't think I have any before photos, but when I was peeling off the old sticker I did notice that it was yellowish, hardly noticeable on the car since the car color is black).

The next endeavor is to use the responses posted on this thread to install the new stoneguard clear replacements that I bought from the dealer (I'm hoping to do that this weekend, time permitting).

Cheers,

Calguy
'80 924 N/A
'92 968 Cabriolet

jeff968

Calguy,
Congrats on getting the job done. One question on your approach, why would you spray the adhesive remover on the decal BEFORE it was removed? That stuff only works on the adhesive that under the decal. The decal is so thick and strong, I doubt it would do any good until after you remove the top piece and the adhesive is exposed. At least, that is what I have found.

Jeff

Daly

You can use windex. That is what window tinters use and I have used it to put on door jamb sills as well as the chip guard film. It allows you to move the film around and when potioned correctly scrape out air bubbles and then let sit without touching or driving till all dry.

jeff968

I would worry about the effects of the ammonia on the adhesive.