Wheel Arch Sticker Removal
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Hey fellow 968ers,
Does anyone know how to remove the stoneguard sticker that is on the back end of the front wheel arches?
I bought two new ones to replace my existing ones but have no clue what is the best way to remove the old without scratching the paint.
Any suggestions are helpful.
Thank you,
Calguy,
'80 924 N/A
'92 968 Cabriolet
Does anyone know how to remove the stoneguard sticker that is on the back end of the front wheel arches?
I bought two new ones to replace my existing ones but have no clue what is the best way to remove the old without scratching the paint.
Any suggestions are helpful.
Thank you,
Calguy,
'80 924 N/A
'92 968 Cabriolet
#3
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I used a heat gun, brake cleaner and a "plastic scoop" bondo scraper made by 3M - part # 368. It didn't take long to get the program working. I heated the area to very warm but not hot, shot some brake clean on to help with the adhesive removal and then used the sharp edge of the bondo scraper to slice it off. Absolutly no damage to paint for me and a small mar can be removed with wax.
If you attempt this method you will find it necessary to continually flip the bondo tool over as the edge tends to start curling. I also used a metal tool to reform the edge of the scraper at times. I shared this method with Jeff Coe and I believe he was successful with it also.
Again this is what worked for me. Typically when I post something someone responds with a claim that my suggestion will not only ruin the entire vehicle but likely the world as we know it (all the while they're probably rushing to math class). So for this reason I read a lot more than I type. I hope this helps.
If you attempt this method you will find it necessary to continually flip the bondo tool over as the edge tends to start curling. I also used a metal tool to reform the edge of the scraper at times. I shared this method with Jeff Coe and I believe he was successful with it also.
Again this is what worked for me. Typically when I post something someone responds with a claim that my suggestion will not only ruin the entire vehicle but likely the world as we know it (all the while they're probably rushing to math class). So for this reason I read a lot more than I type. I hope this helps.
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Yes, I followed Cliff's approach on my yellow coupe and it worked great. You want to "soften" the old sticker with the heat (you can use a heat lamp as well), then use the hard bondo spreader to take off the old sticker. It will come off in pieces. Then use an adhesive remover to get rid of the extra glue, then polish (not wax) the paint below, and apply the new sticker. Looks much better.
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Thanks guys for the replies. I'm going to go see if I can find a good heat gun at the hardware store this weekend. This might sound silly but would a hair dryer work? I'm guessing it would take a lot longer to heat it up but just curious (I haven't had a need for a heat gun before and this may be just a one time use).
Thanks,
Calguy
'80 924 N/A
'92 968 Cabriolet
Thanks,
Calguy
'80 924 N/A
'92 968 Cabriolet
#7
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SpeedBump - yes there is a small tab on the bottom of the factory protector that will detach if you try (at least it would on mine). I actually used the factory pieces as templates to scan and have my local wrap / bra shop cut me some out of the latest 3M material. I cut the tab off the bottom and all worked well.
I purchased my factory ones color matched to my car (Polar Silver) and they matched about as well as a pair of orange would. That's when I elected to use them as templates for clears.
calguy - a good hair drier may work and a lot less chance of overheating (burning) paint. If you use a professional heat gun be careful and continually test touch the surface to monitor temperature. Now for the legal disclaimer: DON'T BURN YOURSELF !!!![Embarrassment](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/redface.gif)
Oh yeah - 3M bondo scoop available at most parts stores and/or body shop suppliers
I purchased my factory ones color matched to my car (Polar Silver) and they matched about as well as a pair of orange would. That's when I elected to use them as templates for clears.
calguy - a good hair drier may work and a lot less chance of overheating (burning) paint. If you use a professional heat gun be careful and continually test touch the surface to monitor temperature. Now for the legal disclaimer: DON'T BURN YOURSELF !!!
![Embarrassment](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/redface.gif)
Oh yeah - 3M bondo scoop available at most parts stores and/or body shop suppliers
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Hi Cliff,
Thanks for the clarification. I will start with the hair dryer and make my way through it. So it sounds like there is a factory tab on the bottom portion of the sticker concealed beneath the bottom side skirt that if you use this tab you can peel the sticker. Am I getting right or confusing it with something else?
If that's the case would it matter if I start from the top down or is it recommended to start from the bottom up?
Also I bought the factory clear ones. The car base color is black would those work well (in case of color matching) or should I try to get a different kind (like the ones you made via 3M)?
Lastly, should I be concerned about bubbling beneath the sticker? Obviously I've never done this before so I just want to be well informed.
Thank you,
Calguy
'80 924 N/A
'92 968 Cabriolet
Thanks for the clarification. I will start with the hair dryer and make my way through it. So it sounds like there is a factory tab on the bottom portion of the sticker concealed beneath the bottom side skirt that if you use this tab you can peel the sticker. Am I getting right or confusing it with something else?
If that's the case would it matter if I start from the top down or is it recommended to start from the bottom up?
Also I bought the factory clear ones. The car base color is black would those work well (in case of color matching) or should I try to get a different kind (like the ones you made via 3M)?
Lastly, should I be concerned about bubbling beneath the sticker? Obviously I've never done this before so I just want to be well informed.
Thank you,
Calguy
'80 924 N/A
'92 968 Cabriolet
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Calguy - incorrect - the tab is not for removal purposes. I suspect is it for handling during installation.
I would work top down - IMHO much easier.
I was not happy with the ones purchased from Porsche (that were supposed to be color matched to my Polar Silver car). That's why we scaned them as templates and computer cut 3M clears.
Jeff can comment about bubbling. The owner of the bra shop installed mine. Took him (a pro) app 1 minute each side to do.
I would work top down - IMHO much easier.
I was not happy with the ones purchased from Porsche (that were supposed to be color matched to my Polar Silver car). That's why we scaned them as templates and computer cut 3M clears.
Jeff can comment about bubbling. The owner of the bra shop installed mine. Took him (a pro) app 1 minute each side to do.
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Cliff - Thank you for the reply. I purchased the clear ones from the dealer so those should be OK as the existing ones on the car does not seem to be colored and is probably clear. I say probably since I have not removed the whole thing but picked on a little bit at the top corner.
Yes, Jeff (or anyone else that's changed theirs) if you can let me know what you think about the bubbling (if it occurred or not and what can be done if it occurred) that would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you,
Calguy
'80 924 N/A
'92 968 Cabriolet
Yes, Jeff (or anyone else that's changed theirs) if you can let me know what you think about the bubbling (if it occurred or not and what can be done if it occurred) that would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you,
Calguy
'80 924 N/A
'92 968 Cabriolet
#11
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That 3M stuff sounds like leading edge tape we use at my work. I believe that the original use of it was to protect the leading edge of the propeller on aircraft. All weather and very erosion resistant. Good stuff.
Doug
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Hey Doug - hope all is well. Not sure where it originated from but mine are made from the 3M material used to clear bra cars. I've heard comments that it will yellow over time and that may be, but my car sees very little UVs and the bra shop owner has this scan saved in his system so he can cut out 2 more at any time.
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Hey Guys!
I just wanted to give a major thanks to the instructions posted on this topic. I went ahead on Saturday and removed the sticker using the #368 3M plastic scoop, hair dryer, and some 3M General Purpose Adhesive Remover (instead of brake cleaner). After a lot of elbow grease the old sticker came out in pieces and the paint underneath is as good as new!
I have not installed the replacement stickers yet as I am not sure if they will bubble after applying them. I can only imagine that since the old one was very hard to remove that the new ones will also be very sticky leaving little to no room for repositioning.
I was at a local PCA Swap Meet and Car Show on Saturday and saw some really nice examples of 968's some had stickers some did not. From the ones that did not have any stikcers I didn't see any "road rash" (chips, pits, etc from driving). Does the stoneguard really make a difference in protecting the paint?
Thanks,
Calguy
'80 924 N/A
'92 968 Cabriolet
I just wanted to give a major thanks to the instructions posted on this topic. I went ahead on Saturday and removed the sticker using the #368 3M plastic scoop, hair dryer, and some 3M General Purpose Adhesive Remover (instead of brake cleaner). After a lot of elbow grease the old sticker came out in pieces and the paint underneath is as good as new!
I have not installed the replacement stickers yet as I am not sure if they will bubble after applying them. I can only imagine that since the old one was very hard to remove that the new ones will also be very sticky leaving little to no room for repositioning.
I was at a local PCA Swap Meet and Car Show on Saturday and saw some really nice examples of 968's some had stickers some did not. From the ones that did not have any stikcers I didn't see any "road rash" (chips, pits, etc from driving). Does the stoneguard really make a difference in protecting the paint?
Thanks,
Calguy
'80 924 N/A
'92 968 Cabriolet
#14
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I would put the sticker back on. If you see a car without them they have been removed for some reason. The factory piece is a thick material so you won't get any bubbling. I used a special solution to apply them but you can use dish washing detergent with water. just use that same bondo spreader to work out the extra solution between the sticker and the paint once you get it into place. make sure your hands are clean and try not to touch the sticky side of the piece. Jeff
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Thanks Jeff for the response. I'll give it a shot. Do you know what the special solution was called and where I can purchase some? Not sure if it's from the delear...
Thank you!
Calguy
'80 924 N/A
'92 968 Cabriolet
Thank you!
Calguy
'80 924 N/A
'92 968 Cabriolet