maintenance
06-16-2011, 12:20 PM
#2
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everyone has their own schedule. and there are guys here who probably do a few things better.
but this is the shedule i follow, just pulling this up from a few days ago;
https://rennlist.com/forums/off-topi...-miatas-4.html
engine;
1. ac pump (was a florida car).
2. oil cooler lines.
3. 2nd ps pump which still works ok *i got a leaky hose...
suspension;
4. sway bar bushings, and new caster blocks (rear, lower control arm bushings on the front suspension).
5. 100~120 k mile service included the following: cam chain, cam chain tensioner pads, front seals, H2O pump, (first H2O pump went 114 k), thermostat, all belts, pullies, tensioner, fresh coolant, cap and rotor, spark plugs and wires, gaskets and sp plug grommets.
my maintenance schedule;
fresh oil filter @ 6,000 miles, fresh Mobil 1 every 12 k... @ 20 k miles i do; spark plugs, distributor rotor, transmission oil, pack front wheel bearings, new air and fuel filters...... @ 40 k miles i add; all belts, distributor cap, spark plug wires and radiator flush. i think if you follow a similar schedule, *(i may have left something out), you would be pretty happy with owning one of these cars.
currently, i have 2 repeir issues. 1). i need change the high pressure ps line. i have the hose, but haven't installed it. 2). the car could benefit from installing fresh shocks and struts. i might do that at like 200 k... the car has 143 k miles now.
/
so in addition that stuff maybe periodically check,
ps hoses, caster blocks, front bushings and sway bar bushings that get wet and spoil from the ps fluid, motor mounts, struts, tie rod ends, lower control arm ball joints, uneven rear tire wear (switch rear tires to opposite rims), watch for leaves and sediment in the engine compartment, keep your drain plugs and area along your firewall clean as moisture (and mud) gets trapped here due to rotting leaves, sediment, etc...
i imagine the other poeple will have some good ideas that i left out
but this is the shedule i follow, just pulling this up from a few days ago;
https://rennlist.com/forums/off-topi...-miatas-4.html
engine;
1. ac pump (was a florida car).
2. oil cooler lines.
3. 2nd ps pump which still works ok *i got a leaky hose...
suspension;
4. sway bar bushings, and new caster blocks (rear, lower control arm bushings on the front suspension).
5. 100~120 k mile service included the following: cam chain, cam chain tensioner pads, front seals, H2O pump, (first H2O pump went 114 k), thermostat, all belts, pullies, tensioner, fresh coolant, cap and rotor, spark plugs and wires, gaskets and sp plug grommets.
my maintenance schedule;
fresh oil filter @ 6,000 miles, fresh Mobil 1 every 12 k... @ 20 k miles i do; spark plugs, distributor rotor, transmission oil, pack front wheel bearings, new air and fuel filters...... @ 40 k miles i add; all belts, distributor cap, spark plug wires and radiator flush. i think if you follow a similar schedule, *(i may have left something out), you would be pretty happy with owning one of these cars.
currently, i have 2 repeir issues. 1). i need change the high pressure ps line. i have the hose, but haven't installed it. 2). the car could benefit from installing fresh shocks and struts. i might do that at like 200 k... the car has 143 k miles now.
/
so in addition that stuff maybe periodically check,
ps hoses, caster blocks, front bushings and sway bar bushings that get wet and spoil from the ps fluid, motor mounts, struts, tie rod ends, lower control arm ball joints, uneven rear tire wear (switch rear tires to opposite rims), watch for leaves and sediment in the engine compartment, keep your drain plugs and area along your firewall clean as moisture (and mud) gets trapped here due to rotting leaves, sediment, etc...
i imagine the other poeple will have some good ideas that i left out
06-18-2011, 04:16 AM
#3
RL Community Team
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Well, if "timing belt" includes the balance shaft belt and the water pump...
And all normal car maintenance (like brake pads) aside...
- variocam (the pads at the very least)
- a good gl-4 gear oil
- firewall reinforcement
Basically if I bought a new 968 these are things I'd do even if the car was in "good repair".
How's that gray car doing?
And all normal car maintenance (like brake pads) aside...
- variocam (the pads at the very least)
- a good gl-4 gear oil
- firewall reinforcement
Basically if I bought a new 968 these are things I'd do even if the car was in "good repair".
How's that gray car doing?
06-19-2011, 04:41 AM
#5
RL Community Team
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Rich,
The firewall has been known to crack where the clutch master cylinder mounts, due to stress from pushing the clutch pedal. Using a stiffer pressure plate stresses the firewall even more. By adding a reinforcement, you shore up the firewall so it doesn't strain as much, and prevent it from ever cracking. Just research "cracked firewall" for more info.
Have someone push the clutch while you watch the master cylinder. It will move! It's scary!
This is my brace, it completely stops the movement. I've seen another brace that goes all the way up and connects to a strut bar... it doesn't stop the master cylinder from moving. Here's mine:
The firewall has been known to crack where the clutch master cylinder mounts, due to stress from pushing the clutch pedal. Using a stiffer pressure plate stresses the firewall even more. By adding a reinforcement, you shore up the firewall so it doesn't strain as much, and prevent it from ever cracking. Just research "cracked firewall" for more info.
Have someone push the clutch while you watch the master cylinder. It will move! It's scary!
This is my brace, it completely stops the movement. I've seen another brace that goes all the way up and connects to a strut bar... it doesn't stop the master cylinder from moving. Here's mine:
06-19-2011, 10:42 PM
#6
Bannana Shine
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My clutch cracked my firewall as well, very confusing at first.
With all due respect to Alan, I'd strongly advise against 12,000 mile oil changes, and I consider filter changes between oil changes to be useless. I'd suggest strict 5,000 mile oil and filter changes, and preferably with an all-PAO synthetic or ester oil.
As for transaxle oil, I use only Mobil Delvac 75W-90 (previously sold as Mobil 1 SHC), which is not the same as the Mobil 1 75W-90 you get at the auto parts store.
I'd suggest you e-mail Mike Miller with the BMWCCA for the latest edition of his Old School Maintenance manual. It was developed for BMWs but applies equally well to Porsches.
Something else you might want to check...maybe once a year, when you have some reason to take the rear wheels off anyway, check the hub nuts and make sure they're not backing out. You do NOT want them to loosen and back out without you knowing. This comes from personal experience!
With all due respect to Alan, I'd strongly advise against 12,000 mile oil changes, and I consider filter changes between oil changes to be useless. I'd suggest strict 5,000 mile oil and filter changes, and preferably with an all-PAO synthetic or ester oil.
As for transaxle oil, I use only Mobil Delvac 75W-90 (previously sold as Mobil 1 SHC), which is not the same as the Mobil 1 75W-90 you get at the auto parts store.
I'd suggest you e-mail Mike Miller with the BMWCCA for the latest edition of his Old School Maintenance manual. It was developed for BMWs but applies equally well to Porsches.
Something else you might want to check...maybe once a year, when you have some reason to take the rear wheels off anyway, check the hub nuts and make sure they're not backing out. You do NOT want them to loosen and back out without you knowing. This comes from personal experience!
06-20-2011, 07:00 PM
#7
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thanks,
-kbarber
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06-20-2011, 07:56 PM
#8
RL Community Team
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I like the standard mobil 1 75-90, it's pretty good compared to other things I've tried, but never tried the delvac variety. The only thing I like more (way more) is swepco 201 which is what I use now.
06-21-2011, 09:06 AM
#9
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WHat else could I change for the Vario Cam, you said "the pads at the very least"?
and for the firewall reinforcement, it's kind of home made, you dont really have to buy anything custom, right?
As for my paint, it's pretty much done... just some touch up here and there, i'll try to post pics before next week-end...
and for the firewall reinforcement, it's kind of home made, you dont really have to buy anything custom, right?
As for my paint, it's pretty much done... just some touch up here and there, i'll try to post pics before next week-end...
Well, if "timing belt" includes the balance shaft belt and the water pump...
And all normal car maintenance (like brake pads) aside...
- variocam (the pads at the very least)
- a good gl-4 gear oil
- firewall reinforcement
Basically if I bought a new 968 these are things I'd do even if the car was in "good repair".
How's that gray car doing?
And all normal car maintenance (like brake pads) aside...
- variocam (the pads at the very least)
- a good gl-4 gear oil
- firewall reinforcement
Basically if I bought a new 968 these are things I'd do even if the car was in "good repair".
How's that gray car doing?
06-22-2011, 04:11 AM
#11
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
tek, there is a thread called "variocam DIY" or something like that in this forum, if you skim through the first post you can see all the things that can be changed/serviced. In a nutshell, the pads, the chain, some oil o-rings and crush rings, and properly setting the valve timing (which is actually pretty easy if you have a brand new chain, but complicated if you keep the old chain - see the DIY).
The firewall reinforcement is home made. I bought a 4-foot long L-beam, and cut a little piece off. It's way stronger than, say, an angle bracket like this: (Not Recommended)
because this is a piece of metal which was bent. The solid L-beam is forged in the L shape. Also, the outside of the corner is not rounded off, it's "filled in", so it's a way stronger joint........... Not to go on about it, but I like to overthink everything to ensure good results.
I still have like 47 inches of it. I can send you a piece, just shoot me a PM. I can give you "instructions" too.
Rich, I have never seen a RHD car so I don't know. I think it's the same, with both MC's on the left side. Wherever your MC is located, it's the same general principle. I'll try to write a DIY and post it up if I can.
The firewall reinforcement is home made. I bought a 4-foot long L-beam, and cut a little piece off. It's way stronger than, say, an angle bracket like this: (Not Recommended)
because this is a piece of metal which was bent. The solid L-beam is forged in the L shape. Also, the outside of the corner is not rounded off, it's "filled in", so it's a way stronger joint........... Not to go on about it, but I like to overthink everything to ensure good results.
I still have like 47 inches of it. I can send you a piece, just shoot me a PM. I can give you "instructions" too.
Rich, I have never seen a RHD car so I don't know. I think it's the same, with both MC's on the left side. Wherever your MC is located, it's the same general principle. I'll try to write a DIY and post it up if I can.