Has anyone successfully repaired the hatch side trim pieces? It looks like there was an attempt to reattach the metal stud plates at one point and it's failed. The one on the driver's side is now barely hanging on and I was going to remove it this weekend before it completely breaks off.

If you have had success in repairing it, what did you use? I'm heading towards Lord Fusor 116.

 

Ideally you want to use something with a little flex, like the glue they use to install windshields. Works like a charm.
Raj

 

Interesting idea. I hadn't even thought about using urethane. I just ordered Lord Fusor 310A/B from McMaster. From what I was finding through various searches was failed attempts using epoxies from the local parts stores, including JB Weld.

 

We use it all the time for this repair ... nice quick and easy job, just make sure you buy black urethane otherwise it will look like a DIY bathroom job

 

I did the repair on Tuesday. The factory used urethane, not epoxy. At least that's what was on mine. I didn't think urethane had enough strength in tension when applied to such a small area as the stud mounts, so I opted for the Lord 310. I removed all the old urethane (and epoxy from the PO), cleaned the mating surfaces and wiped everything down with DX. I also removed the rubber trim while working on them. I did leave a couple of the studs alone so it would line up correctly on the car while I set the other ones. Once they set, I removed excess so the trim would sit flush agains the glass and painted the back side of the trim with Blitz Black. Once the paint dried, I used weatherstrip adhesive to reattach the rubber trim and installed. I haven't painted the outside surfaces yet. I wanted to make sure the repairs hold, then I'll remove everything, strip off the rubber trim again, prep and paint.

 

Curt - How did this hold up for you?

I need to fix mine and it looks like from reading this that epoxy is not going to do it.

 

So-so. They're all holding except for the studs at the top of the trim piece (the ones that only have half of the backing plate). I don't know if my prep was inadequate or if I tightened them too much. I'll be pulling them back off soon, but this time I'm going to use cold-set urethane.

 

I talked to a body shop supply store about this and they recommended a certain type of urethane as well. When I asked if it would be strong enough he said that they use the same stuff to glue their paint mixers to the floor of the shop to keep them from moving.

 

Okay 'mates let's keep going and why not ressurect a 2011 thread in 2025?

Short history - the hockey sticks that came with the car kept failing. So I bought new ones. They failed too!

@odurandina has in the past said no ifs ands or buts you need to use Dow U-428+ to glue the studs back on those trims. Urethane. But primer needed? A new caulking gun? That stuff might be right but the form factor is off. Too much. Too much waste. But if this is the only answer I will.

Regular JB Weld seems a failure by my own experience over the years and posts here.

But what about JB Weld Plastic Bonder? Urethane. 3770 psi "strength" (but what sort of "strength" compression? tension? ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ ) Worth a shot?

What about e6000 Premium Automotive Industrial Strength Contact Adhesive?? "...will not crack or break under stress..." ??

I looked up the Lord 310 on McMaster-Carr per upthread. But again... I like McMaster but I'll need to buy a dispensing gun and maybe a mixer nozzle, and @CurtP said maybe Lord 310 didn't necessarily work all that well.

Wondering if anyone has any updates about this perennial problem. The teilecar re-engineered sticks seem like the right idea but a bridge too far as of today—tariffs and etc—and besides I already bought new once ! I've put enough into these trims, yes? FWIW the failed "new" sticks I bought used a black, flexible, rubbery, adhesive that I could peel off the separated stud plates.

Absent any new info I'll give either Plastic Bonder or the E6000 contact stuff a try and report back. The sticks have been off the car for two years now... I kinda liked the mad max look without the trims but time to honor the car and put it back right. 🤣

 

Two things I have used with success. 3M panel bond epoxy and the DOW primer less urethane. I like the primer less urethane the best and it can be bought on Amazon. The durometer on the panel bond is better than other epoxies but in the end not as flexible as the urethane. Clean the tabs up good with wire wheel and get off all old glue and rust. Clean up hockey stick too. You can sort of wrap the tab in the urethan under and over. Have had good results with this method. Buy some "hobby store popsicle sticks" to move the stuff around effectively and so you dont have to clean the stuff off your tools. Good luck.

 

Thanks! Dow U-418? Which Amazon weirdly calls "primer less" but includes with a "single application primer" ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

 

I would verify all Amazon information on Dow's website. They usually have great info on the pdf. downloads...

-Yogii
AKA 968 Novice

 

I did a test of JB Weld Plastic Bonder, JB Plastic Weld, and the off the shelf "standard" JB Weld. I cut a piece of plastic and tried to bond it back together. None of them worked, but, the "standard" JB Weld resisted my attempt to pull them back apart much more that either of the other two.

I need to do this same repair but have not yet decided to attempt disassembling the "hockey stick" parts. I guess I am a bit afraid I'll do more damage than good trying to take it apart without knowing all the hidden mount points I don't already know about!.