The screw that holds the rotor to the spindle won't give. I was going to heat it up with the torch? Any other ideas?
Thanks

 

Go down to your local Sears and get one of these: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...1&blockType=G1 .

It's a hand held driver that you whack with a hammer. The hammer blow both seats the bit into the screw and turns it out.

 

I got mine from Autozone for $10 - works great. You'll need to thread a bolt into the threaded hole to push the rotor off of the hub, I think it's an M8, but I'm not certain.

 

Jeff, if you chew up the threads on the phillips, you can break the head off by drilling. A little tap on the rotor from the inside won't hurt getting it off the spindle.
Raj

 

The way I did it, for what that's worth, I used PB penetrating oil letting it work for at least 5 mins. Then used a little heat from my MAPP torch and the longest philips head I had for the most torque. I also tapped the screw driver with a hammer and it broke free. The impact drivers as described above will work as well. To get the rotor off make sure the ebrake is off and I also tapped it with a blunt small sledge hammer.
Hope this helps

 

The Craftsman hand impact driver and PB blaster were my weapons of choice when I did the job last week.

Joel

 

Yeah before you get into using any tools other than a normal Phillips driver, soak the screw in PB Blaster, and in my experience it continues to penetrate and loosen beyond the first few minutes, badly stuck things often benefit from an hour or more of soaking (I once had to soak something overnight, but that was an E-Type torsion bar with 40 years of corrosion).

Once that's out, you SHOULD be able to man it off. If not, I hear they've got a 2-for-1 deal on ********* at Sears.



Actually I think the most effective way to get wheels off of rotors, rotors off of hubs, etc, when they don't want to come off, is hitting alternate sides of the face with some kind of hammer (rubber in the case of wheels, maybe sledge in the case of rotors) because the rocking motion exploits leverage to get it off one edge at a time.

 

Once I get that Phillips head screw out, I leave it out. Too much of a PITA!

 

Replace the screws... simply apply some anti-seize!

 

I use that everywhere...hub-to-rotor mating surface, rotor-to-wheel mating surface, Phillips screw threads, wheel stud threads or just the threads of the lug nuts themselves...I'm considering adding it to my pizza...

 

Why? They're only there for assembly. They're not needed.