DIY: Clutch Replacement
#17
RL Community Team
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Thanks Raj .
Miles, I'm using a Porsche 944S2 flywheel, clutch, PP, fork, and starter, and a 951 TT and bellhousing. Luckily the 968 clutch hydraulics could all be retained. So my clutch changes aren't this easy anymore! But I won't need to change it for several years.
Miles, I'm using a Porsche 944S2 flywheel, clutch, PP, fork, and starter, and a 951 TT and bellhousing. Luckily the 968 clutch hydraulics could all be retained. So my clutch changes aren't this easy anymore! But I won't need to change it for several years.
#19
On the Radar
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"Most" places will not resurface a DMF.
Also the rubber inside the DMF deteriorates over time
causing viberations. Depending on mileage, it should
be replaced as it is a wear item.
I saw a write up somewhere long ago on how to check
the deflection of the DMF, but have no idea where it was posted.
Also the rubber inside the DMF deteriorates over time
causing viberations. Depending on mileage, it should
be replaced as it is a wear item.
I saw a write up somewhere long ago on how to check
the deflection of the DMF, but have no idea where it was posted.
#20
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Essentially, if you twist the mating surface of the DMF against the back side of the DMF, it should deflect back right away. It it doesn't, its shot.
Pretty easy to see when you do the test.
Raj
Pretty easy to see when you do the test.
Raj
#21
RL Community Team
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There are places that will resurface DMFs. Just call around, and tell them you want a "dual-mass "cup" style flywheel" resurfaced and see what they say. "Cup" style just means that there is a friction surface and a raised lip surface, so the flywheel is like a cup.
If nobody will resurface it for you, just take a disc sander with a standard pad and hit it nice and steady all the way around. Get the scorch marks to mostly disappear and you're good. You can also sand by hand but don't get carpel-tunnel. Don't use a sand blaster - the sand could get into the DMF and cause problems.
If nobody will resurface it for you, just take a disc sander with a standard pad and hit it nice and steady all the way around. Get the scorch marks to mostly disappear and you're good. You can also sand by hand but don't get carpel-tunnel. Don't use a sand blaster - the sand could get into the DMF and cause problems.
#26
Addict
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1. No mention of a hammer ?
#29
Instructor
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Troy, IL (East of STL)
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Hi,
I did a clutch job a month ago and found Raj's write up very helpful.
I want to add pictures and my two cents to his instructions.
No problems here just do this before you get the car in the air.
My exhaust came out in 1 piece without any trouble. Those pictures were too blurry to post. I guess I was moving fast at that point!
I left the wires attached and used a metal hanger to keep it out of the way. My son did bump his head on it - learning can be fun!
I'm going to break this into several replies. I already had to redo once after closing it by mistake
I did a clutch job a month ago and found Raj's write up very helpful.
I want to add pictures and my two cents to his instructions.
Disconnect Battery
Remove the exhaust with the O2 sensor still connected. You can disconnect the O2 sensor from behind the intake manifold. Break off the tiewrap that ties it to the oil filler neck.
No problems here just do this before you get the car in the air.
Chance are the exhaust nuts/bolts that tie catalytic section to catback are corroded. In this case, you might be best off dropping the entire exhaust as 1 piece. Its much easier to break/cut nuts and bolts when the exhaust is off the car.
Remove starter by removing 2xM10 bolts holding starter to bell housing.
I left the wires attached and used a metal hanger to keep it out of the way. My son did bump his head on it - learning can be fun!
Install flywheel lock by inserting it in place of existing starter and reusing M10 bolts. Disconnect clutch slave cylinder by removing 2xM8 bolts, do not disconnect the fluid line, keep it connected or else you will need to bleed the fluid.
Remove 9xM8 bolts/washers from the exhaust side of the bell housing. Remove additional M10 bolts holding clutch cover to bell housing. Once all bolts are removed, the cover should be free of bell housing.
I'm going to break this into several replies. I already had to redo once after closing it by mistake
Last edited by dkdm; 01-15-2010 at 08:41 AM.
#30
Instructor
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Troy, IL (East of STL)
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You may notice on the last picture a bolt and nut on the flywheel lock. Someone has been here before The threads on that side of the starter were gone and they put a longer bolt and nut. Not sure if this a common issue.
You can see the bolt with the locking nut above the flywheel lock (you can see I sprayed penetrating oil around that area). I used a fairly short bolt screwed into the open threads on the end and then with some vise grips pulled the needle out. It really is more of a shaft than a needle. Below is a better picture of the bolt and then the needle.
The rubber cap there on the torque tube pops right off.
Next Page.........
Remove M6 bolt that locks the needle in place by 1st loosening the nut, Install cheesehead M8 bolt on to the needle and pull the needle out.
You can see the bolt with the locking nut above the flywheel lock (you can see I sprayed penetrating oil around that area). I used a fairly short bolt screwed into the open threads on the end and then with some vise grips pulled the needle out. It really is more of a shaft than a needle. Below is a better picture of the bolt and then the needle.
Remove rubber plug on torque tube, undo 1xM8 cheesehead bolt for clamping sleeve and push it back towards transmission. This should free up your torque tube to clutch setup.
The rubber cap there on the torque tube pops right off.
Next Page.........
Last edited by dkdm; 01-15-2010 at 09:33 PM.