DIY: Clutch Replacement
#31
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Location: Troy, IL (East of STL)
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Once the plug was remove I had to rotate the engine around to see bolt.
Raj got me a little confused as I'm a stickler for following instruction. He says to "undo the 1XM8 cheesehead bolt" I loosened the bolt and could not get the TT splined shaft to come free of the clutch. I did not want to remove the bolt as I was afraid of not being able to get everything back in right. "Remove the 1XM8 cheesehead bolt" the shaft slid right back!
Remove 2xM6 bolts from guide tube. This will free up the sleeve for the clutch.
Remove 9xM6 triple square bolts around the pressure plate. You will need to turn the crank to get to all of them. Use 24mm deep socket to turn crank clockwise. Remove clutch fork out of the housing and then remove pressure plate and disk as 1 unit.
Inspect flywheel for blueing or grooves. Also check to see there is no oil leak from the main crank seal. If the main seal is leaking, you will need to remove the flywheel using 9xM10 triple square bolts.
I'll try to pick this back up tomorrow!
Cheers,
Last edited by dkdm; 01-15-2010 at 09:51 PM.
#32
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Location: Troy, IL (East of STL)
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Removing the rear main seal was one of the more challenging parts of this job
I tried to pry the seal out from the flat opening where the screwdriver is and it would not budge. I drilled some small holes, installed a few sheet-metal screws and used a claw hammer to start pulling the seal. Once the seal started moving I worked it out with the screwdriver.
Here's the tools -
A Rennlister rented me their RMS instal tool and it worked great!
I installed the tool on the crank and then noticed the crank wasn't quite clean enough. The ridge on the crank came right off with a fine scotch bright (after the above picture was taken)
The seal slid in like BUTTER! The green stuff on there is Curil T.
Earlier I showed a picture of the new and old fork needle.
Fork bearing removal
Install
Here's a picture of my flywheel and the old pilot bearing.
I could not find any hints on how to install the throw-out bearing on the pressure plate. I can't remember exactly how I did it but it involved a lot of large C clamps and at least one extra sets of hands.
Here's old and new pressure plates.
I couldn't find the copper anti-seize I was looking for so I had to settle for a perma seal brand copper anti-seize. I didn't get many pictures going back together. Below is one almost together.
I used all new bolts for both flywheel and pressure plate an I always use some sort of locktite and torque wrench.
The last picture I have is of how I bled the new clutch slave. Someone on here had a video of a guy pushing the air up through the system (since air rises). It really worked great the vacuum pump I used had a rubber nipple that fit the bleeder very well.
Last piece from Raj -
Raj's wriite up help me out a lot and I hope my pictures will help too. This was a fairly simple job. BUT I have access to some pretty descent tools.
Cheers,
I tried to pry the seal out from the flat opening where the screwdriver is and it would not budge. I drilled some small holes, installed a few sheet-metal screws and used a claw hammer to start pulling the seal. Once the seal started moving I worked it out with the screwdriver.
Here's the tools -
A Rennlister rented me their RMS instal tool and it worked great!
I installed the tool on the crank and then noticed the crank wasn't quite clean enough. The ridge on the crank came right off with a fine scotch bright (after the above picture was taken)
The seal slid in like BUTTER! The green stuff on there is Curil T.
Inspect needle for grooves and swap if necessary.
Remove needle bearings from clutch fork by using a hydraulic press or equivalent.
Remove needle bearings from clutch fork by using a hydraulic press or equivalent.
Fork bearing removal
Install
Here's a picture of my flywheel and the old pilot bearing.
I could not find any hints on how to install the throw-out bearing on the pressure plate. I can't remember exactly how I did it but it involved a lot of large C clamps and at least one extra sets of hands.
Here's old and new pressure plates.
Installation is reverse of removal.
Make sure all moving parts like guide sleeve, needle, needle bearings, torque tube clamping sleeve and slave cylinder pin are lubed using quality copper lube.
Make sure all moving parts like guide sleeve, needle, needle bearings, torque tube clamping sleeve and slave cylinder pin are lubed using quality copper lube.
I used all new bolts for both flywheel and pressure plate an I always use some sort of locktite and torque wrench.
The last picture I have is of how I bled the new clutch slave. Someone on here had a video of a guy pushing the air up through the system (since air rises). It really worked great the vacuum pump I used had a rubber nipple that fit the bleeder very well.
Last piece from Raj -
It is work in progress and hopefully i will add pics as we go. Feel free to add anything if you have valuable experience that might help others.
Cheers,
Last edited by dkdm; 01-15-2010 at 10:11 PM.
#34
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Troy, IL (East of STL)
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John,
I'm not sure why you can't see them.
Is there anyone else out there who CAN see them???
I uploaded them and I can see them whether I'm logged in or not. I'm sort of new to this part of forums.
I'm not sure why you can't see them.
Is there anyone else out there who CAN see them???
I uploaded them and I can see them whether I'm logged in or not. I'm sort of new to this part of forums.
#36
Rennlist Member
I now see images in the post which contains the words "I'm going to break this into several replies. I already had to redo once after closing it by mistake"
#38
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Troy, IL (East of STL)
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So do you guys see the images on my first post (page two) embedded within the messege or at the end under attached email or both (like I do)?
I'm sure this is a rookie mistake - I briefly read over how to attach images but there wasn't much to what I found.
I'll be working on it some more.
I'm sure this is a rookie mistake - I briefly read over how to attach images but there wasn't much to what I found.
I'll be working on it some more.
#39
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
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I can see the pics.
Damn, that is one sexy rear main seal installation tool! Where can I get one? I remove my RMS the same way with drilling holes and using screws, I thought people would call me ghetto but it does work, lol.
Does that method of bleeding the clutch (mitivac) work well for you? I have a mitivac but I've never used it for bleeding anything - I read many times that it doesn't do that very well.
Damn, that is one sexy rear main seal installation tool! Where can I get one? I remove my RMS the same way with drilling holes and using screws, I thought people would call me ghetto but it does work, lol.
Does that method of bleeding the clutch (mitivac) work well for you? I have a mitivac but I've never used it for bleeding anything - I read many times that it doesn't do that very well.
#41
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Location: Troy, IL (East of STL)
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FR, the tool is a P234 and cost about $150. I was able to "borrow" it for $20 plus some shipping.
Using the mitivac, the way I did, doesn't bled the clutch hydraulics it pushes air up the system and out the master cylinder.
Someone here posted a cool utube video that showed how it works. I kind of bench bled the slave, installed it, and and then push fluid through the mitivac up to the rubber nipple before opening the bleeder screw. I had my son watch the master; he said he only saw a few air burps and then the level started increasing. When my son told me the master cylinder was topped off I closed the bleeder and that was it. Very little mesh and NO pumping!
John,
I think I need to host the pictures some where else then I'll re-embed them into the text.
Using the mitivac, the way I did, doesn't bled the clutch hydraulics it pushes air up the system and out the master cylinder.
Someone here posted a cool utube video that showed how it works. I kind of bench bled the slave, installed it, and and then push fluid through the mitivac up to the rubber nipple before opening the bleeder screw. I had my son watch the master; he said he only saw a few air burps and then the level started increasing. When my son told me the master cylinder was topped off I closed the bleeder and that was it. Very little mesh and NO pumping!
John,
I think I need to host the pictures some where else then I'll re-embed them into the text.
#42
Addict
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Thanks, Very Much! My clutch it great but just in case I ever need this info, I'm book marking it! Great write up. Gracias, gracias, gracias!
Dwayne on the 928 Forum who's done a bunch of write-ups with closeup fotos like these. While the 928 is quite different, some of the info still applies. Pictures really make a difference. http://dwaynesgarage.norcal928.org/
H2
Dwayne on the 928 Forum who's done a bunch of write-ups with closeup fotos like these. While the 928 is quite different, some of the info still applies. Pictures really make a difference. http://dwaynesgarage.norcal928.org/
H2
#43
Can anyone tell me what the part number is for the plug that you take out to access the sliding spline by the clutch. The parts list indicates part 477-521-177. But when I got one of these from Sunset, it didn't look like the one shown in the pics above (which is the same as what mine looked like before I noticed it missing recently).