Hi folks.
I replaced the heater control valve + rubber pipes on my recently.[ preventative maintenace]
Bled the system out,from the bleed screw on the top of the alloy pipe...
BUT i now have no heat coming from my interior heater.
There was before.
Can anybody help me , tell me the BEST way of bleeding the sytem out.
I have heard it can be a pig of a job...
The car doesnt seem to run any hotter, just no heat from the heater.....

I have done this b4 with no probs on another 68, but this is a challenge.....

 

Did you reinstall the vacuum line to the HCV?

 

I would check the vacuum line all the way to the firewall to make sure its not broken somewhere. Vacuum lines get old and brittle. Also, did you install the heater control valve facing the right direction?
Raj

 

Did you use an aftermarket HCV (like the Audi one)? If it's an aftermarket HCV the vacuum line will need a little zip-tie or clamp on it because the hose will fit loosely, and therefore not pull a vacuum.

Could also be the heater core has air in it. Try parking steeply uphill and bleeding it again, so the air can leave the heater core.

 

Ta folks.
The HCV is a Porsche item.
It is on the correct way round.
The vaccuum pipe is connected + is all ok..

I have tried to park the car with the front up in the air. But will try again with it higher.... I had heard about that b4...

Still no joy as yet.... But ill keep trying...

 

This is something that has worked for me in the past.
If you have access to compressed air,
With the engine cold Insert the air nozzle in the water fill neck
and try and seal the nozzle as good as you can using a shop rag.
Use the compressed air to force the air pockets thru the system.

Then use the usual bleeding procedure.

 

Any luck?

 

If nothing else get a hand vacuum pump and pull a vacuum on the HCV with the car running and see if you get heat. If you do, trace the vacuum line back to the source to find why it isn't getting vacuum. It could be the supply to the heater controls or a break in the line to the valve.

 

Easy to do if you blow into the overflow tube with your hand over the filler neck instead of the cap.
open the bleed screw, blow, close, inhale, open, blow, close...

then go for a drive and bleed it once more with the heat on as normal. Works great. Don't swallow coolant.

-Joel.

 

Good advice

 

Ok chaps.
For those who gave advice,, a HUGE thanks....
Ive now fixed the problem
The valve + assosiated pipework was fitted by my mech.
The 2 small rubber pipes either side of the valve were replaced at the same time as the valve....
BUT,,
Porsche in there wisdome fitted a pair of CLEAR bungs into each end of one pipes. This pipe was about 2-4 inches long....
My mech saw one of the bungs b4 fitting + flicked it out, looked down the pipe ,, clear,,, fitted the kit + off i went.
Then no heat....
I called him. Then went back to see him, at which point he " after messing about bleeding, back flowing etc etc etc ",, removed the new pipework, to find another bung, Now it WAS clear when fitted so he looked straight through it,, it had now become opaque after getting hot...
So.. The moral of this story, is make sure the pipes ARE empty + NO clear bungs are present....
I can understand Porsche fitting bungs in a pipe 2ft long,, BUT not 4 inches long..?????
Ive now got heat back into my heater core....

 

Thats good news. Glad to hear is wasn't a mojor issue

 

Gotta love simple fixes.
Raj