luckett

Mark the chassis metal with a paint mark at the perimeter of the caster block on all sides or at the corners so you know where to set it back. Also make a record of the direction the tab on the eccentric bolt is pointing. Put it back just like it came out and it should be close enough to not worry about.

Gentleman Driver

OK, so I replaced the steering rack bushings and that appears to have been the problem as they were quite worn and there was no steering fluid present underneath the boots. One thing that surprised me was that a hose that went from one side of the rack to the other, right behind the boots, was disconnected. I don't know its purpose (air pressure regulator?), but we reconnected it so that may help as well.

Once I got the swaybar off I inspected the Castor block and have decided to replace that too while I am at it. I have a question though, should I replace the other side as well even if it looks OK? It is definitely original, but shows no visible wear. I was just thinking it might be good to replace them both at the same time...

Oh, and my undercarriage is covered in fluid... makes it so much more difficult to work on. Once I am done I am going to de-grease and pressure spray the whole thing and then identify if there are any additional leaks apart from the Steering fluid reservoir hose.

Cheers

RajDatta

Absolutely swap them as a pair. Its only a matter of time or else you will need to realign again.
Raj

Gentleman Driver

OK, thanks Raj. Ordered all the parts, will have a majority of the front-end bushings brand-new by this weekend. Hopefully I will get some steering feel and accuracy back.

Any idea on the hose though? I wonder if that was causing any of the symptoms I was experiencing...

968workaholic

If you are talking about the small black plastic hose its only purpose is to even out the pressure inside the boots. If the hose was off it won't do any real harm, but it should be connected. Glad to hear everything is working out with your front end.

Gentleman Driver

Another Question: do the Castor blocks or the wheel lug nuts have a specific torque spec? The wheels were torqued pretty well when we removed them...

Thanks

968workaholic

The castor block to the body is 34 ft/lbs. The 19mm nut that holds the A-arm to the castor block is 63 ft/lbs. The lugs for the wheels are 93 ft/lbs. Be sure to tighten the 19mm nut with the car on the ground or else you will rip the rubber out from the new blocks.

RajDatta

Lugnuts should be torqued to 96lbs/ft.
Castors are 74lbs/ft to the castors itself and 34 lbs/ft to the body as stated.
Raj

Gentleman Driver

Great, thanks! Just out of curiosity, is there a quick resource for this info? Or do I just need to purchase a shop manual...

RajDatta

I can burn you a copy of the CD. Send me a PM with your address.
Raj

Gentleman Driver

Gents,

I purchased all of the bushings for the front swaybar and plan on replacing all four. The middle ones appear easy to remove and replace, but the end bushings looked difficult to work with.
Does anyone have any suggestions on technique? Current plan is to use a c-clamp or vice to get them in, but I don't want to damage the new bushings...

Appreciate the help.

Gentleman Driver

Bump for info on the bushings...

Plus I need to find out where I can find the Dextron II ATF fluid required for my PS system. Searched here extensively and google without result.

Cheers

PorscheDude1

You should be able to get Dextron II ATF at any auto parts store. It is nothing out of the ordinary.

PorscheDude1

GD,
You have PM on where to down load the manuals.

luckett

Good luck finding Dexron II. Any of the most recent iterations of Dexron is fine. Any gas station or auto parts sill have it.