968 Lowering Springs
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Anyone use the Hyperco progressive lowering springs that Paragon-Products offers. If so, did you get a before and after measurement? How much lower did you end up with and was the ride different?
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Rich brings up a good point. Its critical to check your ball joints on the control arms if you plan to lower. What also adds to premature ball joint wear is bigger wheels. Anything bigger than 17 inch wheels is not recommended by Porsche. I think it might be ok and safe in street applications but anything that see's heavy track usage should not go too low or too big on wheels. My setup will be used 100% on the street so I am not that concerned.
If that is your intention, you should switch to Charlie or racer's Edge conmtrol arms.
Rich, I agree. We have spent too much time on telephone conversations and emails for us not to meet, especially when we are not that far away. Maybe Damian and I can setup a get together. We can bring the 86 track car and the cab.
Raj
If that is your intention, you should switch to Charlie or racer's Edge conmtrol arms.
Rich, I agree. We have spent too much time on telephone conversations and emails for us not to meet, especially when we are not that far away. Maybe Damian and I can setup a get together. We can bring the 86 track car and the cab.
Raj
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Originally Posted by 968TurboS
Maybe Damian and I can setup a get together. We can bring the 86 track car and the cab.
Raj
Raj
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Also, John Millidge (sp?) sells control arms (not sure if those are his own or if he's selling Charlie A-arms) which look like nice pieces.
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I think Jon Milledge sells Charlie arms. I am a big fan of his work. He has to be by far the most knowledgeable builder for our cars. He is expensive though.
I should be free after the next two weekends to get together. I will check with Damian on his availability.
Raj
I should be free after the next two weekends to get together. I will check with Damian on his availability.
Raj
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Raj, I am currently using the car as a daily driver and several track events at Sebring and Homestead. It is stock non-M030 suspension with the exception of M030 sway bars (BIG improvement). I also use 18" wheels with track rubber. The plan was to lower for looks only, it currently performs at a level I am happy with for combined use. I have mixed measurements that the springs will give me and that is why I checked to see if anyone has used them. If I get 3/4 to 1" I probably will not have an ball joint issue. 1.5" might be too much. At any rate, I have ordered them and should receive them Friday and will have them in over the weekend if everything goes ok. Report back then.
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Hi Raj,
Installed the springs Saturday. It took about 5 hours, most of the time spent on the first one. Couple of things that I did different from the PP instructions.
1. I used a bottle jack to raise the control arm but did not bother trying to use the spring compressor while the strut was on the car.
2. I ended up lowering the control arm to the lowest point and setting the bottle jack to hold it.
3. I tried to scribe the outline of the strut to the mounting point and found it difficult and figured I would have a hard time lining it up again so I used another method, see pictures. Basically I used a straight edge (u-bolt plate) and scribed a mark at the top, next to the camber adjustment.
4. I could not find a place to attach the bungee cord to support the disk so I used a jack stand, see picture. (The disk assembly is HEAVY!)
5. On the first one, I removed the bottom bolt first and found it was a lot easier to get the top bolt out if the top one was removed first.
6. I found I spent more time turning down the spring compressor bolts then any part of the job. My compressor used 15/16s bolts and I did not have a socket to use with the air gun. If I did it again I would make sure I had another way to compress the springs, it took a LOT of turning.
7. It takes a lot to get the strut nut off, make sure you have enough air.
8. My air gun does not have a torque setting so I am not sure how you know when the nut is tight enough???
9. Once I got the spring off, I compared it to the new spring and got worried, the new spring is a lot shorter, maybe 1.5 inches.
10. Do not waste your time putting the compressor on the new spring until you start reassembly, I compressed it down wasting a lot of time and energy when it did not need to be compressed but a small amount (duh, see #9 above)
11. Reinstalling the strut required a pry bar under the strut to line up the bottom bolt. It was easy to line up the mark that I created from the straight edge.
12. Net result, a full 3/4 inch of lowering.
I forgot about the bump stops and used the old ones that were in ok shape. Consider ordering new bump stops when doing this job. Car looks great and for my needs, lowered it just right and the ride is about the same. I will be at Sebring for the Gold Coast DE July 29/30 and will look for a slightly stiffer ride. Pictures of the car to follow.
Thanks, Nick
http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/96..._springs01.jpg
http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/96..._springs03.jpg
http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/96..._springs05.jpg
http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/96..._springs07.jpg
Installed the springs Saturday. It took about 5 hours, most of the time spent on the first one. Couple of things that I did different from the PP instructions.
1. I used a bottle jack to raise the control arm but did not bother trying to use the spring compressor while the strut was on the car.
2. I ended up lowering the control arm to the lowest point and setting the bottle jack to hold it.
3. I tried to scribe the outline of the strut to the mounting point and found it difficult and figured I would have a hard time lining it up again so I used another method, see pictures. Basically I used a straight edge (u-bolt plate) and scribed a mark at the top, next to the camber adjustment.
4. I could not find a place to attach the bungee cord to support the disk so I used a jack stand, see picture. (The disk assembly is HEAVY!)
5. On the first one, I removed the bottom bolt first and found it was a lot easier to get the top bolt out if the top one was removed first.
6. I found I spent more time turning down the spring compressor bolts then any part of the job. My compressor used 15/16s bolts and I did not have a socket to use with the air gun. If I did it again I would make sure I had another way to compress the springs, it took a LOT of turning.
7. It takes a lot to get the strut nut off, make sure you have enough air.
8. My air gun does not have a torque setting so I am not sure how you know when the nut is tight enough???
9. Once I got the spring off, I compared it to the new spring and got worried, the new spring is a lot shorter, maybe 1.5 inches.
10. Do not waste your time putting the compressor on the new spring until you start reassembly, I compressed it down wasting a lot of time and energy when it did not need to be compressed but a small amount (duh, see #9 above)
11. Reinstalling the strut required a pry bar under the strut to line up the bottom bolt. It was easy to line up the mark that I created from the straight edge.
12. Net result, a full 3/4 inch of lowering.
I forgot about the bump stops and used the old ones that were in ok shape. Consider ordering new bump stops when doing this job. Car looks great and for my needs, lowered it just right and the ride is about the same. I will be at Sebring for the Gold Coast DE July 29/30 and will look for a slightly stiffer ride. Pictures of the car to follow.
Thanks, Nick
http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/96..._springs01.jpg
http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/96..._springs03.jpg
http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/96..._springs05.jpg
http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/96..._springs07.jpg