Gummy Starter Syndrome ( GSS ) Repair
#1
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Gummy Starter Syndrome ( GSS ) Repair
Its is going to be a few days before I test it out but I followed Dave Greimann's instructions and took some photos. I will add a little to what he posted previously.
1. Remove the starter from the car by following the appropriate procedures to disconnect the battery, and using jackstands yadda, yadda, yadda. You need a 17mm socket, 17mm wrench, ratchet and 6 inches of extensions to remove the remove the starter bolts. I tried a 9" extension which is too long so I used a 4" and a 6" which worked out just right. Then you need a 13mm and 10mm wrench to remove the bolts that hold the wires. I had to remount the starter upside down to break loose the 13mm nut that holds the main powerline.
2. On the very nose of the shaft, there is a collar held in place by a split ring. Drive the collar back toward the gear and expose the split ring. I took a deep 15mm socket and mated it against the collar and tapped with a hammer. This pushed the collar free.
3. Wrestle the split ring out of the groove and and remove the collar, This is the toughest part. A small screwdriver popped it out easily.
4. Remove the braided ground strap nut from the terminal. This one is 13mm again, I found it easy to remove.
5. On the end of the starter opposite the gear, remove the two small nuts that are on long threaded rods. It is quite possible that you will unscrew the rod from the casting instead of actually backing the nut off. That is OK. I let some oil soak in on these but both came out with the rods attached. I used a deep 9/32" socket to reach the nuts.
6. The bendix and its casting should be in your hands now. Spray a solvent cleaner like Brakekleen all over it to remove the dirt and grime. Pay special attention to the tube where the driveshaft goes.
Before
7. After it is clean, lube the shaft and tube with some light oil. I wouldn't use grease, it may be too goopy to keep the action light and snappy.
After
I could not contstrain myself and did use grease on the internal gearing behind the shaft. I used a light coat of mobil one 15W50 on the remaining parts.
Before I started the bendix would stay extracted after release. Now it pops back in as soon as I release it.
8. Reassemble. The only part of reassembly that I found diffucult was the ring and collar. First slide the collar to the bottom of the shaft. It is pretty easy to get the ring in place. It should be strethced enough that you can line it up with the groove and use a hammer to tap it into place. But sliding the collar back over it will be the most difficult part of the process. I used a pair of pliers to squeeze the ring in different positions closing it as much as possible. Then I turned the starter upside down and placed a 12mm open ended wrench above collar with a block of wood supporting the other end. Then I tapped the wrench with a hammer. That forced the collar over the closed end of the ring. I rotated the shaft and a few more taps had the whole ring under the collar.
I plan to make an under car external cleaning and light oiling an annual service item.
What do you guys think about this bushing? I have no idea what it should look like.
There is more info on the bushing at http://65.61.16.109/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=4414
1. Remove the starter from the car by following the appropriate procedures to disconnect the battery, and using jackstands yadda, yadda, yadda. You need a 17mm socket, 17mm wrench, ratchet and 6 inches of extensions to remove the remove the starter bolts. I tried a 9" extension which is too long so I used a 4" and a 6" which worked out just right. Then you need a 13mm and 10mm wrench to remove the bolts that hold the wires. I had to remount the starter upside down to break loose the 13mm nut that holds the main powerline.
2. On the very nose of the shaft, there is a collar held in place by a split ring. Drive the collar back toward the gear and expose the split ring. I took a deep 15mm socket and mated it against the collar and tapped with a hammer. This pushed the collar free.
3. Wrestle the split ring out of the groove and and remove the collar, This is the toughest part. A small screwdriver popped it out easily.
4. Remove the braided ground strap nut from the terminal. This one is 13mm again, I found it easy to remove.
5. On the end of the starter opposite the gear, remove the two small nuts that are on long threaded rods. It is quite possible that you will unscrew the rod from the casting instead of actually backing the nut off. That is OK. I let some oil soak in on these but both came out with the rods attached. I used a deep 9/32" socket to reach the nuts.
6. The bendix and its casting should be in your hands now. Spray a solvent cleaner like Brakekleen all over it to remove the dirt and grime. Pay special attention to the tube where the driveshaft goes.
Before
7. After it is clean, lube the shaft and tube with some light oil. I wouldn't use grease, it may be too goopy to keep the action light and snappy.
After
I could not contstrain myself and did use grease on the internal gearing behind the shaft. I used a light coat of mobil one 15W50 on the remaining parts.
Before I started the bendix would stay extracted after release. Now it pops back in as soon as I release it.
8. Reassemble. The only part of reassembly that I found diffucult was the ring and collar. First slide the collar to the bottom of the shaft. It is pretty easy to get the ring in place. It should be strethced enough that you can line it up with the groove and use a hammer to tap it into place. But sliding the collar back over it will be the most difficult part of the process. I used a pair of pliers to squeeze the ring in different positions closing it as much as possible. Then I turned the starter upside down and placed a 12mm open ended wrench above collar with a block of wood supporting the other end. Then I tapped the wrench with a hammer. That forced the collar over the closed end of the ring. I rotated the shaft and a few more taps had the whole ring under the collar.
I plan to make an under car external cleaning and light oiling an annual service item.
What do you guys think about this bushing? I have no idea what it should look like.
There is more info on the bushing at http://65.61.16.109/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=4414
#3
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Raj, I guess you have three or four starters in your garage now. I wonder if any of them would benefit from this treatment? With what you and Jim paid for the new ones there may not be much point in testing them.
Anyway, how does my bushing look compared to the new one? I do not see much in the starter hole so I am wondering what it should look like.
I believe this is the tool needed to pull out the old bushing
http://www.etoolcart.com/browseprodu...ller-P239.HTML
Anyway, how does my bushing look compared to the new one? I do not see much in the starter hole so I am wondering what it should look like.
I believe this is the tool needed to pull out the old bushing
http://www.etoolcart.com/browseprodu...ller-P239.HTML
#5
Rennlist Member
Bruce, that is exactly it. Only problem is trying to get the old one out. They are usually sitting tight inside the bell-housing and very hard to get out. Let me know if you have any luck with it.
Raj
Raj
#6
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
I may try a hardware store solution to changing the bushing. I am thinking about buying a number of 6" or longer bolts that are larger in diameter than the starter shaft. Get a number of sizes and then find the largest one that I can thread into the old bushing. Then attach a pair of vice grips and pound on them, similar to removing the needle from the clutch fork. The bushing appears to be made of soft metal that could be screwd into. What do you think?
#7
Rennlist Member
The only problem is, pounding it will do you no good. It has to be pulled back out and cannot be pushed out. The hole has a neck that will stop it from getting pushed further. I think the screwing the bolt is a great idea and maybe keep tightening it until it makes the bushing spin and then you should be able to pull the screw out. I guess some WD40 might help as well.
Raj
Raj
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#8
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Guess I should have said "pound outward".
I will check on availability tomorrow. If I can get a new bushing from stock somewhere I will go ahead and start pulling the old one out.
I will check on availability tomorrow. If I can get a new bushing from stock somewhere I will go ahead and start pulling the old one out.
#9
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Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Auburn, Washington & San Diego ............................. Terry
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Just a possibility here. But, if there's enough thickness remaining in the bushing you may be able to use a tap followed by threading a bolt into the bushing.
#10
As for pulling the bushing, here is a technique I have used on similar parts with some success:
Clamp a large nail with locking pliers;
Hook the nail head behind the bushing;
CAREFULLY tap or pry on the locking pliers, alternating sides of the bushing to evenly "walk" it out.
If you can find a big enough nail, it should reach behind that bushing.
Clamp a large nail with locking pliers;
Hook the nail head behind the bushing;
CAREFULLY tap or pry on the locking pliers, alternating sides of the bushing to evenly "walk" it out.
If you can find a big enough nail, it should reach behind that bushing.
#13
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Orange County, CA
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One trick that is used to remove the pilot bearing in Chevy flywheels is to pack the cavity with grease and then drive a close fitting shaft into the bore. The hydraulic action of the grease unpresses the bearing from the backside. Don't know if it will work for this small starter bearing, but it might be worth a try.
#14
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
I started the car up for the first 5 times after cleaning the starter a few minutes ago. It starts and run so smooth!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Not sure if it was the starter, the fuel check valve or the balance belt retension. Guess it was a combination of all three.
Not sure if it was the starter, the fuel check valve or the balance belt retension. Guess it was a combination of all three.
#15
Rennlist Member
Say, the starter is wisper quiet and has a very short turbine like whine when it disengages. Sounds a heck lot better than any I have heard. I guess they get raspy over time. I would seriously consider getting a new one if yours sounds raspy. It might be just a matter of time before it gives and at under $100 with exchange its worth every $$. I got mine from Sunset Porsche in OR and it comes with a 2 year warranty from Porsche. Much cheaper than getting one rebuilt.
Raj
Raj