RajDatta

Jason, once you O'ring the head, you will be using its additional clamping ability even if you use a stock head gasket. The O'rings provide additional sealing for each bore and that can "remove" the head gasket as the weakest link in the chain. I wouldn't worry too much in your case as your car is running stand alone Haltech and your car has been dyno tuned. This is something for people that are running stock electronics and plan to dyno tune their car and could be off before they get on a wideband. I think its safe to assume most of the people on this thread have enough common sense not go go WOT unless they have their car properly tuned. The 3.0 and stroker motors are very sensitive to a/f ratios and should hence be dyno-tuned for proper mixtures.
Raj

Jason Judd

Raj,

Thanks for the info.

Jason

Tom M'Guinn

On another point, does anyone have a picture that shows clearly where the oil return banjo bolt screws into the oil pan. I forgot to mark the pan when I gave it to the shop, and a good picture would save me a trip to the machine shop tomorrow. Thanks.

and p.s., who said I did not want to run insane amounts of boost? I'm still leaning toward stock or widefire gasket with raceware studs, without O-ringing it.

PorscheG96

You shouldn't have to tap the oil pan...on my 968 it was already there. Just remove the bolt and replace it with the banjo and return line from a 951.

Tom M'Guinn

Really? I didn't even look for that. I thought you had to tap it?

Tom M'Guinn

On further review, I guess you are right. I seem to recall seeing that a long time ago, but forgot. Must be getting old. Thanks.

Konstantin

for all hese 3L Turbos outthere:
What kind of clutch do you use.
The stock 951 clutch or the 968 one do NOT hadle all this torque.
You will need another better clutch.

Konstantin
PS: if everything is ok in 2 days my other 3 L Turbo engine will be ready. after bought a real 968 Turbo S, I couldn't be happy with the 2.5L engine in my 951.

RajDatta

Trevor, the plug was only there in the early cars. I think they have them in the 1992 model year cause until that point, all they were building were turbo's and S2's. Once they moved completely to a 968, they used a different oil pan which no longer was plugged. The hole was cast shut and you need to tap it.
Tom, you will need to tap the hole as yours is from a later model year. You will see what I mean.
I am using a factory 968 turbo S clutch setup now. Boy this baby is stiff!
Raj

Tom M'Guinn

Thanks guys. I ended up going down to the machine shop today. The pan had the boss, but it was cast shut, with no threads, as Raj said. The search is now on at the shop for an M26 x 1.5 tap. ...

Pauerman

Couple of questions:

I've got a 2.7 head for my 3.0L project and I'm wondering if anyone has explored using different valves other than the 951 exhaust and stock 2.7 intake. Seems like smaller stemed valves are a common upgrade for improving flow on 951 heads - wonder if anyone has played with the valves in the 2.7 head.

Ferrera makes a 7mm (stem) / 48mm intake valve. The stock 2.7 intake valve is 8.93mm(stem) / 48mm. The base (where stem meets valve face) on these valves are much flatter which probably helps with the flow characteristics of the intake charge.

I know some tuners have used different (smaller stem) exhaust valves in the 951 head, but I'm not really a fan of replacing the sodium filled valves with solid stem valves. I imagine this option is more attractive for increasing flow in the ceramic port 951 head, but I'm guessing that the larger exhaust port of the 2.7 head offers enough of a flow increase.

Also, I will be upgrading my head studs with ARP fasteners, but I'm wondering what to do about the girdle studs & nuts. Is the bottom end studs up to the task or should they be upgraded as well?

Great post keep it rollin'

Vic

Tom M'Guinn

Vic,

FYI, Lindsey Racing lists a set of Raceware main bearing studs. I have never viewed those studs as "must replace" items like the head studs, however. Curious to hear what others think. When Garrity was in business, he re-used the bottom studs I believe, but replaced the small girdle bolts with small studs he made by hand from metric threaded rod.

RajDatta

I did not put my engine or head together, so I will not be able to add anything here. All the work was performed by Chris Cervalli from Technodyne and was setup to be used on his race car. I am sure as more of you guys try to do this yourself, it will become clear what is the better alternative to the DIYers.
Raj

Tom M'Guinn

So, on another point, is there collective wisdon on the best fuel pump to use?

I want one that can support over 400rwhp, for those race gas glory dyno runs.

TurboCab

I replaced my head studs with Raceware ones. Personally I believe that unless your engine will be used for track use and a "lot" of boost, it will not be necessary to replace the mains. However, removing the factory studs its not an easy task. Porsche use a thread locker, and belive me, this stuff is really good at its job. Some of the studs are very hard to remove. I heat them and used double nuts with no results. I finnally remove them by drilling both nuts and put a pin accross the stud. Then the block thread have to be cleared with a tap.

Tom Carson

here it is...and at a fair price too.

you may save a few bux on eBay if you think the hassle is worth it.

http://www.lindseyracing.com/Merchan...944BOSCHHVPUMP