rwodabek

I've noticed a small leak coming from the oil pan gasket. It's travelling along the exhaust and stinking things up a bit. My mech has told me what's involved in replacing it but I'd like to hear from some of you folks that my have either done it before or know what's involved.

Thanks!

Richard.

Dave in Chicago

You get to drop the front cross-member (not for the faint of heart). While in there, should probably replace the rod bearings and nuts as preventative maintenance (especially north of 100k miles).

I have heard of folks trying it without the cross-member out, but I don't really see how one can. Also, the gasket is not cheap... will cost just a bit more than the bearings.

By the way, I thought I had a pan gasket leak too. It turned out to be the front crank seal and the lower balance shaft seal. Look REALLY closely, clean the area well, and watch for the source. Easy to get fooled in this area.

rwodabek

Thanks Dave, you make a good point with the front crank seal and the lower balance shaft seal. I just recently had the cams replaced and with that the balance shafts realigned.

My mech was saying that not only do they have to drop the front cross-member but they also have to support the engine from above (since its not sitting on the cross member I suppose). Pretty time intensive by the sounds of it.

Richard.

RajDatta

Yes, the engine needs to be suspended by something. An engine hoist would be perfect. Once the engine is suspended the easiest way is to disconnect the 4 nuts holding the shock tower on each end, disconnecting the rear control arms, disconnected the steering rod and letting the complete front suspension drop all together. This would be the easiet way to do it.
Raj

flash968

lindsey racing makes a 3 piece cross member - if i ever have to drop my pan or have any other reason to drop my cross member, i'm putting it in for sure

don't forget that you will need an alignment after doing the oil pan if you end up dropping the crossmember

mike_hammond

When I dropped mine I put paint marks on the castor blocks and unbolted them from the chassis rails. That way you don't have to disturb the eccentrics and simply line the blocks back up with the paint marks on reassembly, and if as Raj suggests you drop the struts from the top then the camber settings will also be retained. The engine mounts are a PITA to get to and don't forget to release the steering column joint. To support the engine I placed a Scaffold tower section either side with a couple of bars between them then with a block of wood on a jack lifted the engine slightly and roped it to the scafford before releasing the crossmember.

It would also be worth checking to see where its leaking from, a little sealant on the outside might be enough to stop it.

Mike

flash968

i would be interested to see just how close the alignment really was - those holes all have a slight amount of clearance in them - this could easily lead to alignment changes - that's why the dealerships insist on doing an alignment afterward

Dave in Chicago

I did an oil pan gasket and rod bearing job on my 944 and scribed everything. Took it straight to the track after that. Didn't align it again for another year or so. It was surprisingly close to where we had left it.

flash968

hmmm - i was nto so lucky on the rear suspension - scribed everything and still was off a half degree