968 reindexing torsion bars
#1
Burning Brakes
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968 reindexing torsion bars
Well, I have been up and down the archives for information on re-indexing with the bars still on the car. On the 968, there is room for the cap to come out like on the 924s due to the rocker panel cutaway under the rocker panels.
My question is, how do you remove the cap in order to reindex using this method? Any information is appreciated as it is looking more like I will need to drop the torsion tube. Unless the black cap can come off in some matter, I do not see how the cup cars and 924's reindexed with just the hole in the side of the body panels.
TIA - TJ
My question is, how do you remove the cap in order to reindex using this method? Any information is appreciated as it is looking more like I will need to drop the torsion tube. Unless the black cap can come off in some matter, I do not see how the cup cars and 924's reindexed with just the hole in the side of the body panels.
TIA - TJ
#2
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Darth, I dropped the carriers to do mine and its not that bad. If you disconnect the control arms from the carrier and undo the nuts and bolts, you can drop it in approx 2-2.5 hrs.
The end sections are held by those 4 13mm bolts (could be 17mm). Once you have the bolts disconnected, you can then pry the ends off as long as you have the eccentric section disconnected from the rear control arms.
PM me if you need additional help and I will give u my number to call.
Raj
The end sections are held by those 4 13mm bolts (could be 17mm). Once you have the bolts disconnected, you can then pry the ends off as long as you have the eccentric section disconnected from the rear control arms.
PM me if you need additional help and I will give u my number to call.
Raj
#3
Burning Brakes
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Hey Raj,
I am going to look what you said over on the car so I am fresh on what I am looking at. I think I understand what you are talking about though. Sounds like no matter what, the torsion assembly needs to be dropped a little to get this done. What I am trying to avoid right now is disassembling the exhaust and brake lines to move the torsion assembly down. Do you think this is possible based on your experience?
Thanks,
TJ
I will PM you for a number if I get stuck here in the next couple of minutes. Thanks.
I am going to look what you said over on the car so I am fresh on what I am looking at. I think I understand what you are talking about though. Sounds like no matter what, the torsion assembly needs to be dropped a little to get this done. What I am trying to avoid right now is disassembling the exhaust and brake lines to move the torsion assembly down. Do you think this is possible based on your experience?
Thanks,
TJ
I will PM you for a number if I get stuck here in the next couple of minutes. Thanks.
#4
Three Wheelin'
Re: 968 reindexing torsion bars
Originally posted by Darth Coupe
Well, I have been up and down the archives for information on re-indexing with the bars still on the car. On the 968, there is room for the cap to come out like on the 924s due to the rocker panel cutaway under the rocker panels.
Well, I have been up and down the archives for information on re-indexing with the bars still on the car. On the 968, there is room for the cap to come out like on the 924s due to the rocker panel cutaway under the rocker panels.
Thanks!
-Erich
#5
Burning Brakes
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Erich, that is what I have heard based on the fact that some have the hole in the body panel for the end cap to pass through. I heard that the cup cars have this as well, though I have yet to find any information on actually doing this on one of these cars. Even then, I am unsure if it will work on our cars...but there is clearance for the cap to slide out if it can slide out. Though right now it looks like I am going to drop it.
#6
Three Wheelin'
I have seen 924's with the hole in the body for easy adjustment, but i was unsure if you were saying that the adjustment could be done on the 924 w/out dropping everything due to the body style. I think the answer is if you have holes in the side of your car yes But otherwise no you can't...I'll check out my 924S sometime next week when i finally get to drive it again...
Erich
Erich
#7
Rennlist Member
There is no need to remove brake lines. They can be left on as certain parts of them are flexible. You will need to drop the exhaust though. Its not that hard to do.
Raj
Raj
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#8
Speaking of working under the back end, did you get that fuel pump I sent you? Just checking, and your PM box is full...
Regards,
Regards,
#9
Rennlist Member
Thanks, yes I did get it. Will install it today and run the car to see if that fixes the problem. I just hope its not a clogged fuel filter. A new one is on its way.
I will clean the box.
Thanks again.
Raj
I will clean the box.
Thanks again.
Raj
#11
Burning Brakes
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Hey Raj, I am looking at just getting the right torx head socket now for the CV's as it looks like now I will need to get them off to finish up. I have the drivers side down and I think I do not need to do the brake line. I have the exhaust disconnected for the most part hanging lower as the flange bolts are pretty rusted and it is low enough now (disconnected from all rubber hangers) to give me clearance for the torsion bars.
The thing I am struggling with is moving the axle/rotor assembly away from the torsion assembly right now. The parking brake cable is keeping the two tied together pretty well, I am having issues getting it far enough away to get the spring plate away from the axle/rotor assembly. Once that is complete, indexing would be really easy. I am looking at disconnecting the CV's to give me extra play right now, though I still need to disconnect the passenger spring plate, that may give a little more play.
I tried to get around CV's and the brake line, not fully understanding what the cap assembly fully looked like before hand. Now that I can see what the cap assembly looks like with the spring plates basically one with the cap, I can see the need for dropping the torsion bars. I thought with the extra cutout we could just pull the cap straight out, but we can't. I will keep you updated of the progress. Thanks for all of the input.
The thing I am struggling with is moving the axle/rotor assembly away from the torsion assembly right now. The parking brake cable is keeping the two tied together pretty well, I am having issues getting it far enough away to get the spring plate away from the axle/rotor assembly. Once that is complete, indexing would be really easy. I am looking at disconnecting the CV's to give me extra play right now, though I still need to disconnect the passenger spring plate, that may give a little more play.
I tried to get around CV's and the brake line, not fully understanding what the cap assembly fully looked like before hand. Now that I can see what the cap assembly looks like with the spring plates basically one with the cap, I can see the need for dropping the torsion bars. I thought with the extra cutout we could just pull the cap straight out, but we can't. I will keep you updated of the progress. Thanks for all of the input.
#12
Rennlist Member
Darth, there are clips that hold the handbrake cables to the torsionbar carriers. Remove the clips, and you should be able to move the cables out of the way and free them up. At that point, all you need to do is remove the lower shock bolt and undo the nut and bolt holding the trailing arm. Once the trailing arm is disconnected, you can set it free on its wheel studs with the brake connections still in place. You can always disconnect the abs and brake sensors to get additional space.
Hope it helps.
BTW, its not torx but triple-square for the cv-shafts. Makes a big difference and chances are you will not strip it.
Raj
Hope it helps.
BTW, its not torx but triple-square for the cv-shafts. Makes a big difference and chances are you will not strip it.
Raj
#13
Burning Brakes
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Raj, you are a lifesaver, I saw the connection of the ebrake cable but did not think they were clipped as I did not investigate it too much at that point(at that point getting a little frustrated and thinking I had to go the 944 route of complete disassembly). I would have pm'ed for that phone number Saturday and maybe I should have now, but at that point I think it was after midnight. Thanks for the offer, might have to just talk it through next time with ya and save me some time. I had to stop that night anyways, I could not lift my arms anymore Sunday....
Thanks for the help man, hopefully I can get it buttoned up tonight or tomorrow night depending on how much longer it takes to reassemble and how much time I am "allowed" to work on it tonight...
Thanks for the help man, hopefully I can get it buttoned up tonight or tomorrow night depending on how much longer it takes to reassemble and how much time I am "allowed" to work on it tonight...
#14
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Awesome!
Little piece of advise. I only work on my car when I am feeling 100%. It helps me avoid making any expensive mistakes. As the hrs start piling up, we lose our level of concentration and its usually in these hrs when I made the mistakes. Now, I just walk away while I am ahead and its saved me a few times.
Also, our brain is a funny thing. I have been able to figure problems out in my sleep as the brain never shuts down. Its funny how it all works. If I can't figure how to make something work, I just "sleep" on it .
Glad I was able to help. Good luck and take care.
Raj
Little piece of advise. I only work on my car when I am feeling 100%. It helps me avoid making any expensive mistakes. As the hrs start piling up, we lose our level of concentration and its usually in these hrs when I made the mistakes. Now, I just walk away while I am ahead and its saved me a few times.
Also, our brain is a funny thing. I have been able to figure problems out in my sleep as the brain never shuts down. Its funny how it all works. If I can't figure how to make something work, I just "sleep" on it .
Glad I was able to help. Good luck and take care.
Raj