Any tips on changing the oil?
#1
Any tips on changing the oil?
I know this is like asking how to boil and egg but, how do I change the oil?
Ive got a Mahle filter, a filter wrench (socket type) and 8 quarts of Mobil 1 15/50 and planning to get in that first oil change tomorrow. What I understand so far is to remove the rear drip pan and use a sock on the filter. Also the drain plug should be torqued to 37 foot pounds per the dealer service manual.
Any other tips or tricks? Can anyone point me to step by directions?
Ive got a Mahle filter, a filter wrench (socket type) and 8 quarts of Mobil 1 15/50 and planning to get in that first oil change tomorrow. What I understand so far is to remove the rear drip pan and use a sock on the filter. Also the drain plug should be torqued to 37 foot pounds per the dealer service manual.
Any other tips or tricks? Can anyone point me to step by directions?
#3
Bruce, this is the process I use.
Warm your car up for a few.
Raise it safely on all fours as it helps to get under it if its on all fours.
Install jack stands.
Remove oil pan plastic cover by removing 10mm bolts.
Remove drain plug and drain all the oil.
Check the drain plug to see if it caught any metal particles on the inside on its magnet. Wipe it clean.
Cover the area around the oil filter with rags and remove the oil filter. I have not had luck with puncturing the oil filter so I don't do that.
Apply a small film of oil on the new filter gasket and tighten to specs.
Install drain plug back on with a new washer.
Install the plastic cover back on again.
Lower the car and remove filler cap.
Fill it with 6 quart of your favorite brand oil and check the level.
I like to run 1/2 quart over the high mark.
Start car and check for leaks.
Drive the car and next time it sits, check level to make sure its accurate.
That simple.
Warm your car up for a few.
Raise it safely on all fours as it helps to get under it if its on all fours.
Install jack stands.
Remove oil pan plastic cover by removing 10mm bolts.
Remove drain plug and drain all the oil.
Check the drain plug to see if it caught any metal particles on the inside on its magnet. Wipe it clean.
Cover the area around the oil filter with rags and remove the oil filter. I have not had luck with puncturing the oil filter so I don't do that.
Apply a small film of oil on the new filter gasket and tighten to specs.
Install drain plug back on with a new washer.
Install the plastic cover back on again.
Lower the car and remove filler cap.
Fill it with 6 quart of your favorite brand oil and check the level.
I like to run 1/2 quart over the high mark.
Start car and check for leaks.
Drive the car and next time it sits, check level to make sure its accurate.
That simple.
#4
*Excellent* description of the oil changing process Raj. A couple of comments from my experience...
My early '92 has a metal cover to remove to get at the drain bolt, while my '94 has no cover at all. When I first got the '94 after changing the oil on the '92 countless times, I assumed that the PO simply forgot to re-install the cover. Further inspection revealed no attachment points for a cover. I can only conclude that it never had one to begin with. Anyone else with a '94 care to comment?
Every other oil change I like to install a new crush washer on the drain bolt. The old ones always look pretty good, but for a few cents I figure why not?
I also like to run a bit overfull, especially on the race car. I find that filling with exactly 7 quarts gets me right where I need to be. I also jack the left side up a few inches higer than the right side, so I may be draining a bit more out of the car.
Jim Child
'94 968 Race Car
'92 968 Street Car
My early '92 has a metal cover to remove to get at the drain bolt, while my '94 has no cover at all. When I first got the '94 after changing the oil on the '92 countless times, I assumed that the PO simply forgot to re-install the cover. Further inspection revealed no attachment points for a cover. I can only conclude that it never had one to begin with. Anyone else with a '94 care to comment?
Every other oil change I like to install a new crush washer on the drain bolt. The old ones always look pretty good, but for a few cents I figure why not?
I also like to run a bit overfull, especially on the race car. I find that filling with exactly 7 quarts gets me right where I need to be. I also jack the left side up a few inches higer than the right side, so I may be draining a bit more out of the car.
Jim Child
'94 968 Race Car
'92 968 Street Car
#5
Great feedback Jim, as always its greatly appreciated. Always good to hear from guys with hands on experience.
I noticed the same thing that the mounting points for the rear aluminum shield are not preset on the later cars even though PET lists them. I remember once working on a 1992 car where it did have it just like all 951's. Also earlier car had a few extra screws on the bumper cover lowerlip in the middle which were later deleted.
I noticed the same thing that the mounting points for the rear aluminum shield are not preset on the later cars even though PET lists them. I remember once working on a 1992 car where it did have it just like all 951's. Also earlier car had a few extra screws on the bumper cover lowerlip in the middle which were later deleted.
#7
I was wondering about that rear metal cover. I do not remember seeing it in all the time I spent down there for the T-Belt and Clutch! So I was planning on ordering one to complete my 94. Guess I can drop that off the list now.
Thanks for all the tips and the step by step.
Thanks for all the tips and the step by step.
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#8
The change went well, seven quarts of Mobil 1 15w50 are in there now with the reading just a little over full.
For future reference the torque spec for the oil filter is 20nm / 15 foot pounds.
By the way dont buy the filter socket wrench thing at WalMart, its made of plastic and spun on my old Mahle filter until I put some tape on the inside lip of the wrench to decrease its diameter. I may get a metal one before next years oil change.
For future reference the torque spec for the oil filter is 20nm / 15 foot pounds.
By the way dont buy the filter socket wrench thing at WalMart, its made of plastic and spun on my old Mahle filter until I put some tape on the inside lip of the wrench to decrease its diameter. I may get a metal one before next years oil change.
#9
Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Expat Scouser living in Dubai, United Arab Emirates
A trick we use here when changing the oil. To ensure you get as much of the old oil out of the sump. First you need acces to compressor and air hose. Wrap a rag around the end of the hose but not covering the nozzle. jam the rag into the oil filler port. Squeze the trigger on your air gun or just turn on the air if you use an open hose. Unless you have a big drip tray it could get a little messy but youll be surprised just how much more oil you will blow out. Oil filter should be off at this time and some rags placed around the filter port to catch the residue also.
#10
Did mine last night (AGAIN !!) and to remove the filter I used the blunt end of a cold chisel to make a slight indent in the top edge and then tapped it round anticlockwise with the palm of my hand until I could unscrew it.
Tightened it with my hand and a dry rag, I was always told in my apprenticeship days the oil filters should only be hand tight and its always worked for me. Certainly got no leaks on the 968
Mike
Tightened it with my hand and a dry rag, I was always told in my apprenticeship days the oil filters should only be hand tight and its always worked for me. Certainly got no leaks on the 968
Mike
#11
Mike, it sounds like you really need a filter wrench socket thingy. They cost less than three quid over here so Im sure you can find a good deal at your local Halfords. With it and a longer than six inch extension you can easily remove the filter than then correctly torque it when you are done. I suggest a metal tool instead of a plastic one. The plastic one I bought spins when I try to remove or correctly torque the filter, for the short term I fixed this by putting a coat of tape inside to reduce the inner diameter, but I plan to buy a metal one.
I found that the wifes 2003 Jetta turbo uses the same filter socket thingy so if you need to specify the filter size you might tell them is a 2003 VW Jetta 1.8t and see if you get a better price. I should stress, get a Mahle filter but the VW tool is ok.
I found that the wifes 2003 Jetta turbo uses the same filter socket thingy so if you need to specify the filter size you might tell them is a 2003 VW Jetta 1.8t and see if you get a better price. I should stress, get a Mahle filter but the VW tool is ok.
#12
Bruce,
Just one other "trick" I learned from my small block Ford days (don't laugh).
I just did an oil change in my 93" 968 and I used a "Zip-lok" bag around the oil filter once I loosened it. Dropped the oil filter into the bag before removing it from the engine compartment with only a couple of drops spilled.
My 2 cents . . .
Just one other "trick" I learned from my small block Ford days (don't laugh).
I just did an oil change in my 93" 968 and I used a "Zip-lok" bag around the oil filter once I loosened it. Dropped the oil filter into the bag before removing it from the engine compartment with only a couple of drops spilled.
My 2 cents . . .
#15
Also, if your car has both pans, I recently learned that they can easily come off together as one assembly saving you some time over removing them separately. Just leave the middle bolts on and remove the ones that attach to the chassis.