3.6 turbo engine removal pictures
08-08-2011, 08:50 PM
#47
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
E is up
Thanks for the post and I called a german friend of mine to interpret the "E" as well. She confirmed that "intake" in German does start with an E (zulauf auf eingasse) or something like that.
I also got the below from parts guy who knows his stuff ( Gabe at SGS porsche 805 540-3300) Good guy and very knowlegeable.
Thanks to metal guru for helping as well and you guys are making this a lot more enjoyable! Although my wife did want to know if that was the ACTUAL picture of Jerry (Boeing 717)
, so answering that question was not so enjoyable.
I also got the below from parts guy who knows his stuff ( Gabe at SGS porsche 805 540-3300) Good guy and very knowlegeable.
Thanks to metal guru for helping as well and you guys are making this a lot more enjoyable! Although my wife did want to know if that was the ACTUAL picture of Jerry (Boeing 717)
, so answering that question was not so enjoyable.
08-09-2011, 03:15 AM
#49
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Is this pretty, or what?
Thanks again for all your help and check out the picture below. While some guys surf the internet late at night searching to admire other objects of beauty, my wife has actually caught me looking at pictures similar to the one shown below. And yes, that is the truth and I'm sure there may be a couple of you who can relate to this madness
.
.
Last edited by kfitzpat9; 10-28-2011 at 02:40 PM.
08-10-2011, 02:45 AM
#50
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
halfway point
See below my progress and I am preparing to install the p/c's along with the heads and cams.
Last edited by kfitzpat9; 10-28-2011 at 02:40 PM.
08-16-2011, 02:20 AM
#53
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Pistons/cylinders done
A couple pictures of my progess and I'd like to be moving faster, but ultimately want to do it right. Getting the piston circlips in was tricky doing it yourself, so I decided to wait when a good friend could help me. Off on a biz trip this week and happy with the progress thus far.
The bottom picture shows my PC workstation that has all the pictures taken during the dissassembly process. I thought it would be good to have a dedicated computer right next to me whist reassembling.
All for now and more to come.
The bottom picture shows my PC workstation that has all the pictures taken during the dissassembly process. I thought it would be good to have a dedicated computer right next to me whist reassembling.
All for now and more to come.
08-16-2011, 09:22 PM
#54
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Actually, I didnt ask as I suspected they wouldnt be great and was replacing them, but I did call the machine shop today to confirm. He said the intakes were perfect, and the exhausts were just "OK". I took it to mean they were not great and he went on to say that he was in the middle of replacing the exhaust valve guides on a 993 turbo for a famous actor and this was a typical problem. Wouldnt tell me the name but it wasn't seinfeld or jay leno.
....thanks for calling.
08-28-2011, 11:01 PM
#56
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Head and Camshaft Housing Installed
It's been awhile since my last post as I've been spending quality time with the kiddos on the weekend. Father daughter campout followed by a father son camp out, then a soccer (futbol for you non-Americans) tournament in Santa Barbara. Life is rough
I've really been taking my time and being thorough as I wanted to get this step right. On advise of people smarter that me, I decided to bolt the heads to the cam housing prior to attaching them to the cylinders. Why? This helps keep the cam tunnel "true" and also alleviates the time crunch associated with loctite 574 as you are only focusing on the heads to cam housing vs. adding the heads to cylinders in the mix. With that, here is what I did:
1) Cleaned cam housings thoroughly
2) Wire brushed (brass wheel on grinder) the bolts that connect the cam housings to head, including washers.
3) Used loctite 574 on the cam housing surface only (not heads) and torqued the bolts (loctite as well) 3 times same torque, before final torque as they change while the loctite sets up
4) Anti-Seize- Did NOT use anti-seize on the bolts that connect the cam housings to the heads. Some books say to do this but as oil can seep through several of the threaded holes, you do NOT want to do this. Also, from the factory, the bolts had sealant on the tip which indicates they followed a similar process.
5) Heads and Cam towers are now pre-assembled.
6) Using Kim-tech cleanroom wipes (no lint/particles)-removed excess oil from the cylinder walls as this will help the rings seat properly. I did this many times over multiple days by rotating the engine back and forth.
7) Installed head gaskets after cleaning out grooves repeatedly-DONT forget this
Although these were new, cleaned them with brake clean and wipes as well.
8) Oil return tubes- coated the rubber seals in oil after meticulously cleaning and lubricating the housing holes as well. Also cleaned the tubes even though they are brand new.
9) Head nuts- Placed 400 grit sand paper on hard surface and ran the head nuts over it. This was to make sure the washer surface of each nut was completely clean before coating it with the lubro moly copper anti-seize. This is to ensure you get a proper torque setting. Although the heads were done and already clean, made sure I wiped down that surface as well. This was after my friend brass wire brushed every nut to ensure cleanliness.
10) Unveiled the $300 snap-on torque wrench in preparation of its first use
I have a craftsman torque wrench, but don't trust it and with all the money I'm saving.
11) Head studs- thoroughly cleaned the head studs with brake clean and kim-tech wipes before applying a generous amount of copper anti-seize goo.
12) Oil return tubes- ensured they were at 90 degrees and placed a clean wipe inside each of the tubes so nothing fell in there.
13) Cleaned the head surface (3rd time), and double checked the head gasket placement.
14) Attached the head/cam housing assembly on while navigating the oil return tubes into the holes. Perfect fit first time
15) Nuts- after visually inspecting to insure everything was seated properly, put on the nuts-hand tight, then a socket, then up to 12 Nm lbs, then 25 Nm, then final 90 degree turn. All in a star pattern.
16) Cam installation-Checked that the cam slides in and it does effortlessly!! Thanked God first, then had a beer to celebrate. Below are a couple pictures.
I've really been taking my time and being thorough as I wanted to get this step right. On advise of people smarter that me, I decided to bolt the heads to the cam housing prior to attaching them to the cylinders. Why? This helps keep the cam tunnel "true" and also alleviates the time crunch associated with loctite 574 as you are only focusing on the heads to cam housing vs. adding the heads to cylinders in the mix. With that, here is what I did:
1) Cleaned cam housings thoroughly
2) Wire brushed (brass wheel on grinder) the bolts that connect the cam housings to head, including washers.
3) Used loctite 574 on the cam housing surface only (not heads) and torqued the bolts (loctite as well) 3 times same torque, before final torque as they change while the loctite sets up
4) Anti-Seize- Did NOT use anti-seize on the bolts that connect the cam housings to the heads. Some books say to do this but as oil can seep through several of the threaded holes, you do NOT want to do this. Also, from the factory, the bolts had sealant on the tip which indicates they followed a similar process.
5) Heads and Cam towers are now pre-assembled.
6) Using Kim-tech cleanroom wipes (no lint/particles)-removed excess oil from the cylinder walls as this will help the rings seat properly. I did this many times over multiple days by rotating the engine back and forth.
7) Installed head gaskets after cleaning out grooves repeatedly-DONT forget this
Although these were new, cleaned them with brake clean and wipes as well.8) Oil return tubes- coated the rubber seals in oil after meticulously cleaning and lubricating the housing holes as well. Also cleaned the tubes even though they are brand new.
9) Head nuts- Placed 400 grit sand paper on hard surface and ran the head nuts over it. This was to make sure the washer surface of each nut was completely clean before coating it with the lubro moly copper anti-seize. This is to ensure you get a proper torque setting. Although the heads were done and already clean, made sure I wiped down that surface as well. This was after my friend brass wire brushed every nut to ensure cleanliness.
10) Unveiled the $300 snap-on torque wrench in preparation of its first use
I have a craftsman torque wrench, but don't trust it and with all the money I'm saving.11) Head studs- thoroughly cleaned the head studs with brake clean and kim-tech wipes before applying a generous amount of copper anti-seize goo.
12) Oil return tubes- ensured they were at 90 degrees and placed a clean wipe inside each of the tubes so nothing fell in there.
13) Cleaned the head surface (3rd time), and double checked the head gasket placement.
14) Attached the head/cam housing assembly on while navigating the oil return tubes into the holes. Perfect fit first time
15) Nuts- after visually inspecting to insure everything was seated properly, put on the nuts-hand tight, then a socket, then up to 12 Nm lbs, then 25 Nm, then final 90 degree turn. All in a star pattern.
16) Cam installation-Checked that the cam slides in and it does effortlessly!! Thanked God first, then had a beer to celebrate. Below are a couple pictures.
Last edited by kfitzpat9; 06-06-2012 at 11:26 PM.
09-01-2011, 03:09 PM
#57
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Chain box
Just a quick update and hope to be ready to set the cam timing early next week. It's taking a lot longer than I would have anticipated but I refuse to rush this as I want to get it right the first time. Little things like polishing the rocker shafts, determining their exact position in the cam towers (1.5 mm off of the grove), figuring out what torque setting (20 Nm) they require, cleaning the main pully bolt with acetone or equivalent before torquing to 235 Nm all take TIME!
Anyway, below is the latest picture.
Anyway, below is the latest picture.
09-01-2011, 04:22 PM
#58
Rennlist Member
Kevin - please let me know when you are ready for a helping hand going up and in. Jim jdorociak@gmail.com
10-31-2011, 02:24 AM
#59
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Getting close!
Hey,
I've pretty much wrapped up with the engine at this point and will hopefully be marrying the transaxle with it this week. I replaced all the oil tank hoses, hood struts, fuel filter, turbo oil feed line, and a myriad of other "while you're in there" items.
Sandblasted and powder coated all the metal parts and even did the fan in its original color and taped the edges as clearance is tight. Also wet sanded (wd 40) with 600 grit paper many of the anodized bits and other metal pieces. I actually used a 3 step polishing process on the airbox to remove some minor scratches and bring it back to its original sheen. Yes, I'm insane
Cam timing came out dead perfect and although the quality of the B&B exhaust (rarly l8 not done) is suspect by several folks, it does look beautiful and I wanted to reward myself with extra bolt on HP after all the hours I've spent on this puppy. Anyway, some recent pictures below.
I've pretty much wrapped up with the engine at this point and will hopefully be marrying the transaxle with it this week. I replaced all the oil tank hoses, hood struts, fuel filter, turbo oil feed line, and a myriad of other "while you're in there" items.
Sandblasted and powder coated all the metal parts and even did the fan in its original color and taped the edges as clearance is tight. Also wet sanded (wd 40) with 600 grit paper many of the anodized bits and other metal pieces. I actually used a 3 step polishing process on the airbox to remove some minor scratches and bring it back to its original sheen. Yes, I'm insane
Cam timing came out dead perfect and although the quality of the B&B exhaust (rarly l8 not done) is suspect by several folks, it does look beautiful and I wanted to reward myself with extra bolt on HP after all the hours I've spent on this puppy. Anyway, some recent pictures below.
Last edited by kfitzpat9; 06-06-2012 at 11:35 PM.
11-11-2011, 10:23 PM
#60
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
HELP!- It's in, and running...but
Hi,
I got the engine in and it started after several cranks and only after I built up oil pressure! My 8 year old daughter got to turn the key as she has helped out significantly! Zero leaks thus far and it is running and idling well, but the B&B exhaust is glowing orange after 10 minutes of idle which I suspect means its running rich.
I have done the following, but please let me know your thoughts on what might be wrong:
1) Disconnected O2 sensor after running a couple minutes to see if it would eliminate the glowing fuel richness issue. The idle did change, but exhaust still turned orange.
2) Took apart engine ground strap and cleaned thoroughly to ensure proper grounding.
3) Sprayed brake clean around "Intercooler to Throttle body housing O-ring" and other areas while the engine was running to see if the idle changed to ID any leaks.
Also, it doesn't start very well and I'm concerned the IC o-ring is not seated properly. But, if this were the case, it should run lean, right?
Anyway, I hope you can help and not bad suggestions here!
I got the engine in and it started after several cranks and only after I built up oil pressure! My 8 year old daughter got to turn the key as she has helped out significantly! Zero leaks thus far and it is running and idling well, but the B&B exhaust is glowing orange after 10 minutes of idle which I suspect means its running rich.
I have done the following, but please let me know your thoughts on what might be wrong:
1) Disconnected O2 sensor after running a couple minutes to see if it would eliminate the glowing fuel richness issue. The idle did change, but exhaust still turned orange.
2) Took apart engine ground strap and cleaned thoroughly to ensure proper grounding.
3) Sprayed brake clean around "Intercooler to Throttle body housing O-ring" and other areas while the engine was running to see if the idle changed to ID any leaks.
Also, it doesn't start very well and I'm concerned the IC o-ring is not seated properly. But, if this were the case, it should run lean, right?
Anyway, I hope you can help and not bad suggestions here!