New to me Forest Green 964T
02-17-2024, 11:31 PM
#47
Burning Brakes
02-19-2024, 12:28 PM
#48
Rennlist Member
My understanding is it is the same part for both. PET doesn't differentiate models so that usually means applies to all.
02-20-2024, 08:01 PM
#49
Burning Brakes
I would also clean/inspect the metal oil line that the above rubber connects to; the one running around the wheel well to the tank.
In my case it had very tiny pin holes that were hidden from view and was weeping. It would only have been a matter of time until it let go. Replaced both the hard line and the rubber section on the end.
Btw, that bloomin short section at the bottom of the oil tank, above, what a swine that is to replace!
So many joins and fasteners on the oil system on these cars, it's no wonder they like to pee on our garage floors!
In my case it had very tiny pin holes that were hidden from view and was weeping. It would only have been a matter of time until it let go. Replaced both the hard line and the rubber section on the end.
Btw, that bloomin short section at the bottom of the oil tank, above, what a swine that is to replace!
So many joins and fasteners on the oil system on these cars, it's no wonder they like to pee on our garage floors!
03-16-2024, 08:13 PM
#53
Looks like your car is the one at Olson Motorsport. I just finished reading the Sh*& show of comments from their Instagram pricing post.
https://www.instagram.com/olsenmotorsport/?hl=en
https://www.instagram.com/olsenmotorsport/?hl=en
It is and yeah, I read those comments as well lol.
03-28-2024, 08:50 AM
#56
Rennlist Member
04-16-2024, 09:21 AM
#59
Rennlist Member
I will need to check but I believe one is the frunk light.
04-23-2024, 03:08 PM
#60
Rennlist Member
This looks like the frunk, passenger side. My car (3.6) has the same connector with a green dot painted not connected to anything. There a couple/few these around the car, if everything is working right then ignore em.
ps looks like you're doing a proper job getting the car sorted. Might want to go ahead and replace all the oil lines, I just did mine last year as they started weeping at the crimped end fittings (if your are original). The big ones coming through the wheel wells (I remember part #46 being the most fun hah) and along the rocker to the front oil cooler. Also refreshed oil thermostat while all the hoses were off of it. When you're in there up front it's a good time to replace the temp sensor and ballast resistor (not fun but you feel immune to failure once it's done). There's a little debate on how to secure the metal to metal hose joints, I used the slightest amount of moly on them (and locktite only on the threads) to allow the joint to get properly sealed while turning the giant nuts to a quite snug but not too tight torque. Will need to have all the clips and clamps as re-using the ones on the rocker plastics would be a bad idea once they've been yanked out. Can replace the rubber trim gaskets at this time also. Also need a good plastic trim removal set so as to find the right tool to separate the clamps without bending any plastics taking it all apart. And also the foam oil line insulator piece, etc. etc. I just replaced everything as it was all aged out. After the job it was nice to see the oil temp staying lower with everything working correctly as factory set. Temp sensors and ballast and thermostat working together to signal flow to the front oil cooler and fan on/off etc.
** Be careful to avoid even the tiniest piece of loose metal getting inside the oil system as it will end up wedged in a cylinder or a bearing. The filter is before the tank not after. **
ps looks like you're doing a proper job getting the car sorted. Might want to go ahead and replace all the oil lines, I just did mine last year as they started weeping at the crimped end fittings (if your are original). The big ones coming through the wheel wells (I remember part #46 being the most fun hah) and along the rocker to the front oil cooler. Also refreshed oil thermostat while all the hoses were off of it. When you're in there up front it's a good time to replace the temp sensor and ballast resistor (not fun but you feel immune to failure once it's done). There's a little debate on how to secure the metal to metal hose joints, I used the slightest amount of moly on them (and locktite only on the threads) to allow the joint to get properly sealed while turning the giant nuts to a quite snug but not too tight torque. Will need to have all the clips and clamps as re-using the ones on the rocker plastics would be a bad idea once they've been yanked out. Can replace the rubber trim gaskets at this time also. Also need a good plastic trim removal set so as to find the right tool to separate the clamps without bending any plastics taking it all apart. And also the foam oil line insulator piece, etc. etc. I just replaced everything as it was all aged out. After the job it was nice to see the oil temp staying lower with everything working correctly as factory set. Temp sensors and ballast and thermostat working together to signal flow to the front oil cooler and fan on/off etc.
** Be careful to avoid even the tiniest piece of loose metal getting inside the oil system as it will end up wedged in a cylinder or a bearing. The filter is before the tank not after. **
Last edited by wicks; 04-23-2024 at 03:48 PM.
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