When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
The rear jacking points can be a bit tricky to align, as they are a little bit further inboard - be careful you don't try to jack it up on the oil thermostat which is just next to it!
I can't say enough good things about the quickjack system - it's pretty compact, but lifts the car high enough to do quite a lot of under-body work.
Last edited by Megatron-UK; 07-02-2023 at 07:54 AM.
The 3500 quickjack is also just big enough for the 964. I bought it primarily sized for my mk1 Escort, but it had to do the Porsche as well - the next one up, the 5000, was going to be a little on the big size for my purposes, but is probably more suited to the 964 and bigger cars.
Thanks.
i currently only have access to4 tonne axle stands and large hydraulic jack, is it best to then lift all for wheels off the ground, or could i lift the front and have the wheels sitting on wood blocs
Any pics of how you place the wood under the engine to support it correctly
There's not really any need to lift the front if you are only wanting to drop the rear of the engine. But, I would be careful to ensure that the front cannot roll - wheel chocks or something similar.
In your case you would be putting a pair of axle stands under the rear jacking points, and use your jack to support/lift the engine while undoing the engine mounts. Then probably a pair of axle stands either side of the crank case to support while you do the work - my own preference would not be to keep the engine supported by a jack alone whilst doing the work.
I understand, are you using rubber blocks, I have 2x6 wood blocks, im assuming these will be fine
where is best place to put the jack considering i need to leave the crank area free for the axle stands
Rather than using axle stands on the sill area, to hold the car up, could i let the rear wheels sit on a few pieces of 2x6 timber and then drop the engine
Yes, I am using a few rubber blocks which came with the ramp. Wooden blocks should be fine.
If it was me I wouldn't lift it via the wheels. The jacking points in front of the trailing arms are the correct place to lift it (whether on a ramp or via a jack). You don't lift them from the sills.
I have never used the scissor jack, so can't confirm, sorry.
The jacking points are quite clear when viewed from underneath. They are like a small, reinforced box section protruding down from the body with a circular hole in the centre for fitting a dedicated jacking pad.
anyone used titanium studs in the turbo housing, are there advantages to using titanium studs, stronger, will not corrode, I assume titanium nuts would also have to be used
so far have welded three nuts onto the sheared bolt that holds the bracket and no luck, the nut just breaks off and no movement of the broken bolt, it must be along way in, only option now have is try drill it out but im not sure of the total length of the bolt, this is the length of the long tube behind the bracket, the length of the tube on the crank cover and far it goes into the block, dont want to drill into the block
second option is to cut the bracket in half
I was also able to have a good look at the rear of the engine in order ti replace my leaking seal and may do the crank seal as well.
Would I be correct in saying the engine does not have to be dropped but can be supported on axle stands and the rear engine mount cross member removed giving full access to the crank cover and the area below
The by fare better way is still to loosen the supercharger or the manifold so that the supercharger can be pulled backwards with the bracket. Then enough of the broken screw remains that it can be removed without further damage. Drilling out will be a mess and do more harm than good.
I know it's not precise anymore, but it may be that the engine needs to be dropped a few centimeters in order to remove the rear engine mount, this is not critical.
The turbo is not touching the bracket there ia good 10mm gap between the turbo exh outlet and face of the bracket, the problem is the single bolt on the top right of the bracket, its literally just seized/ welded via rust, into the spacer tube, which is welded on the rear of the bracket
Megatron -uk do you have the part numbers for the crank and intermediate shaft.seals please
When removing the crankshaft bolt how do I lock the crank so it does not rotate, i have an impact gun not sure if its good to use this on the crank bolt
07-02-2023, 07:51 AM
