Removing rusted /broken studs in the turbo
#1
Removing rusted /broken studs in the turbo
Removed my exhaust to install a wideband sensor, all I can say is what a nightmare
Due to the heat, the studs around the turbo and the bolts to the bracket that holds the turbo up, were heavily rusted, two studs broke in the turbo and one bolt holding the bracket, the other two bolts holding the bracket had to be cut as the downpipes were in the way, will try to use slightly shorter bolts on assembly.
Is it ok to heat the exhaust studs in the turbo, so they glow red, before I attempt to remove them with an extractor or will this damage the turbo.
Due to the heat, the studs around the turbo and the bolts to the bracket that holds the turbo up, were heavily rusted, two studs broke in the turbo and one bolt holding the bracket, the other two bolts holding the bracket had to be cut as the downpipes were in the way, will try to use slightly shorter bolts on assembly.
Is it ok to heat the exhaust studs in the turbo, so they glow red, before I attempt to remove them with an extractor or will this damage the turbo.
#2
I would not do that. It wouldn't damage the turbo, but it's counterproductiv because the heat expands the broken bolt and makes it sit even tighter in the thread. In addition, it is further weakened by the high temperature.
Try to weld a nut on the rest of it and heat the turbo housing around the torn bolt before unscrewing it (not glowing red!)
Fritz
Try to weld a nut on the rest of it and heat the turbo housing around the torn bolt before unscrewing it (not glowing red!)
Fritz
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urquattro20Vt (07-04-2023)
#3
Burning Brakes
What Fritz said. Try to heat around the mounting face/sides of the turbo, rather than the studs.
Fortunately during my recent exhaust system overhaul all the turbo studs came out okay (and have been replaced with new), but the problem I had was with the waste gate outlet flange, whose studs/nuts looked very similar to those on your turbo, it having never been replaced.
In my case a combination of heat and, in the last case, an extractor on one stubborn stud was needed.
Fortunately during my recent exhaust system overhaul all the turbo studs came out okay (and have been replaced with new), but the problem I had was with the waste gate outlet flange, whose studs/nuts looked very similar to those on your turbo, it having never been replaced.
In my case a combination of heat and, in the last case, an extractor on one stubborn stud was needed.
#5
Burning Brakes
I would always have the battery disconnected, but I have never had to disconnect electronic components before. That's said I've not done or had done any welding on my Turbo.
#6
We have always heated the studs up glowing red and the they come right out with double nuts. Use Copper anti-seize when reinstalling. I built one of these cars in 2000. 23 years later the car came back and everything came apart properly.
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#9
Rennlist Member
Ouch. P-blaster repetitively applied and allowed to soak in for 24+ hours. Could also have to drill those sheared off ones out. Carefully...small to big bits. There are extractor bits also. Or take it to a machinist who does that a lot. One of the first things I do on my old cars is replace all the exhaust nuts and bolts. If/when I get into the turbo will be replacing those studs as well now that I've seen this.
#11
The turbo can come off with keeping the exhaust on the engine. Work the other nuts quarter turn off and on until they come off. Yes use PB-blaster like wicks said.
I machine shop would be a good idea on the broken studs. Even if you drill them, they still will be very difficult to remove. New Turbo is not the end of the world. Just more $
I machine shop would be a good idea on the broken studs. Even if you drill them, they still will be very difficult to remove. New Turbo is not the end of the world. Just more $
#12
All the studs broke despite applying heat for approx 2 mins.
The ends of the studs are removed, why is the L bracket not coming off, is it attached at the rear somewhere, dont want to force it, the top bolt holding it on broke when trying to remove ith
All 4 studs broken
Is this bracket sttached at the rear, as will not move, the third bolt at the top holding it in slso broke
The ends of the studs are removed, why is the L bracket not coming off, is it attached at the rear somewhere, dont want to force it, the top bolt holding it on broke when trying to remove ith
All 4 studs broken
Is this bracket sttached at the rear, as will not move, the third bolt at the top holding it in slso broke
Last edited by 911 2; 06-30-2023 at 07:53 AM. Reason: pic addition
#13
The bracket is simply clamped or blocked between the turbo, engine sword and exhaust pipe. The bolts also block this, as they are still stuck in the holes for a few mm.
The exhaust system seem not to be stock, apparently the exhaust gas is fed to the charger directly from the manifolds. With this constellation, I would first try to separate the turbo from the exhaust pipe. With a bit of luck, the bracket will come out, otherwise you would have to remove the manifold.
Fritz
The exhaust system seem not to be stock, apparently the exhaust gas is fed to the charger directly from the manifolds. With this constellation, I would first try to separate the turbo from the exhaust pipe. With a bit of luck, the bracket will come out, otherwise you would have to remove the manifold.
Fritz
#14
seems the turbo support bracket is mounted to the engine, two of the lower bolts are out but despite breaking off the 3rd bolts head, the bracket will not move
I can see a spacer behind he bracket, behind the top mounting hole, but not sure if the spacer or the beginning part of the hole is threaded in the bracket, if they are not threaded i can try pulling the bracket off with a slide hammer after a little heat
if its threaded then using slide hammer will just damage something, any ideas or anyone have a new bracket they can take a look at please
Hoe di oudg thrģv
Head sheared off despite applying heat
I can see a spacer behind he bracket, behind the top mounting hole, but not sure if the spacer or the beginning part of the hole is threaded in the bracket, if they are not threaded i can try pulling the bracket off with a slide hammer after a little heat
if its threaded then using slide hammer will just damage something, any ideas or anyone have a new bracket they can take a look at please
Hoe di oudg thrģv
Head sheared off despite applying heat
Last edited by 911 2; 06-30-2023 at 12:30 PM.
#15
Ouch, looks like your exhaust leading to the turbo has been modified. They raised it for ground clearance blocking the removal of the bracket. Try a pry bar and also unbolt the turbo.
It's ok to cut the bracket and re-weld it on with your new turbo and new muffler set up.
It's ok to cut the bracket and re-weld it on with your new turbo and new muffler set up.