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I'm finally getting around to replacing the wastegate pipe (and a new stud) on my turbo (muffler side was replaced with fabspeed). I have B&B headers. When I try and put in my fabspeed wastegate and tip it runs into the black pipe.
I've seen a few of you guys running aftermarket oil catch cans and a flexible hose vs a rigid pipe like I have.
Which catch can / hose did you use? I can probably get one from Fabspeed but thought I would see if there are any other options.
Edit: i guess i could just replace the pipe with Aeroquip or similar? That's what it looks like Anthony has? Are you using hose for the entire length or just for the bends and then it fastens to the rigid pipe?
It would appear Colin used a 993 oil line from the oil pump over to the oil tank but it terminates and might have had some additional piping made to complete the job. AFAIK the factory line will not work with any aftermarket catch can. My car came as pictured and was done just prior to my purchasing it. IIRC the factory line goes straight up from there so what you have was made for the job as well. I repalced a GHL exhaust on a turbo once and I had to source a new oil line but that was eons ago. They all interfere
I would consider having something custom made to fit. Is there a reason why you went with fabspeed?
I ended up making a low profile tank to get more ground clearance since I run Turbo S height.
Bought braided line and fittings from Bat Inc to hook it up to the brass line.
Make sure whatever catch tank you choose will hold 8 ounces of fluid (the amount of drain-back from the turbo and the line on top of the engine).
I have a spare GoingSuperFast tank should you need it.
Last edited by Metal Guru; 12-15-2022 at 01:44 PM.
Is your oil line all flexible hose all the way to where it fixes part on the engine/pump or is in only the rear part of the line which is flexible (aeroquip style) and then it fixes to a rigid line? I suppose I can just keep the rigid pipe for the front section and then go to a hydraulic shop and get a ~2ft aeroquip style line made up that would mount to the rigid pipe, handle the bend i need and then join at the catch can.
Question: if I remove my entire solid line will this drain a lot of oil constantly or am i safe to remove it to take it to a shop to get a new one made up with a piece of flex line and then i can reinstall it. Note that when I do this i'll have the rear of the car on ramps since I don't have a lift (sigh)
There were a few reasons i went with Fabspeed:
1. I spoke with the guy at Rarly8 several times as that was my preference based on what many here on RL had said. However i would have needed to supply exhaust tips \and he doesn't have the tooling anymore which makes the "ball joint" part which then uses the donut sealing ring. Given my low expertise with this car (i'm very new - but learning and having fun) I didn't want to get way out of my league and deal with too much custom work. This ads cost and being in Canada even more due to extra shipping, customs fees, duties etc. and then if something didn't fit right it would be even more headache.
2. The drone of my old system was terrible and finding something in a short time frame was ideal
3. in the RL marketplace a previous 964T owner was selling a brand new, sealed in the box, Fabspeed muffler kit with the 2 tips for a great price. I just needed to buy the wastegate pipe brand new from Fabspeed. I had the muffler section installed by a Porsche indie in the summer and it's been great. The wastegate pipe took a little while from fabspeed but I didn't mind - my main drone problem was gone; the car sounds awesome. So now that it's winter I'm getting to wastegate side install and both tips will match.
(In the end i guess it could have worked with a Rarly8 as a straight connection between the tip and the wastegate pipe without the ball joint style but I didn't know as much then as I do now since that ball joint is only on the wastegate side on the Fabspeed anyways - live and learn as they say - i also didn't realize (it's hard to tell from the pics) that the Fabspeed tips are just straight clamped on to the piece of pipe that has the ball joint/donut fitting which then mounts to the wastegate).
I think just getting a new line is the easiest. I can probably even leave my catch can in place. However I don't know if it holds 8oz - it looks smaller than that to be honest - since 8oz is the size of a can of RedBull. What's the impact if it's less than 8oz?
Part of me doesn't want to remove it and potentially break a stud or two! I love how the potential of a small project can just turn into a never ending saga of breaking/replacing parts!
That said I will message you about your GSF oil can!
I think the best course of action is going to be to:
1. remove the current solid line
2. install the wastegate/tip
3. then figure out where to route the flexible pipe back and then trim the rigid pipe and assemble.
Thanks a million. While i thought it would be a simple 1hr job to put on the wastegate and tip it became apparent that this would be a bit more involved than what I was planning - but i've learned something new and that's part of the fun. Fortunately this isn't mission critical and I can still drive the car while I sort this out (i've been driving with 2 diff tips for a few months anyways).
It's a nice and sunny Pac North West day - time to go for a lunch o'clock rip!
If the catch can doesn't hold 8 oz, the oil backs up in the turbo after shutdown, creating all sorts of havoc with coking and smoking.
If you buy Aeroquip braided hose and the correct -AN fittings, it should be a simple matter to route the new line to the brass line. At the brass line, you will need a male to male adaptor the make that connection. It's not a big job; just requires a little planning. You don't want the oil line rubbing on anything. If you can do that, you'll be fine.
I also need one of these lines. I'm running from the Clewett Oil Pump to the B&B Catch Can. I have zero fittings. i deleted the Factory Oil pump with it's air pump drive and Sealed that area off with Lead panning. Is there a post on these fittings? Paul is Going fast still around? I would assume someone sells that line with a quick order? Thank you.
FWIW: Most Parker Hannifin distributors can custom fabricate any sort of soft line hydraulic hose for you. They often stock the various lines (stainless braided/cloth braided/rubber), fittings (stainless/colored/..., Metric/Standard), and for various temperatures, requirements, etc. My local guy can also bend hardlines, flare, and add the appropriate hydraulic fittings for you.
The only thing that they no longer make are brake lines.
I finally got around to this project this week along with a new Rothsport SSK, FD Goldenrod and my new wastegate pipe.
After much messing around trying to figure out the best path for a flex line to join the solid copper line I finally asked myself: what if I can get the old line to fit! Nothing to loose at this point. A little gentle bending here and there and voila! I was able to run it between the wastegate pipe and heater tube.
Then a quick trip to my local hydraulic shop for a 90deg elbow for $3 and it's done. I got them to pressure test it to 100psi just incase but it passed. Thanks @Metal Guru for the new catch can. It's all cleaned up and painted. New gasket and nuts, and she's ready to go. A short drive in the 'hood and no leaks..... so far!
However now that my new wastegate pipe is installed guess what!? I need a longer heater duct. See pics below. My question is: there is a chance the heater duct touches the wastegate pipe. Is that an issue? I'm guessing not, but i prefer parts not to touch if they don't need to! I've seen some car pics where the metal heater tube runs much higher and then transitions to the orange ducting.
12-14-2022, 04:19 PM
oil catch can / line recommendations
