911 2

My 964 turbo is struggling to get in gear, clutch pedal is slightly lower than the brake so i suspect air may be present as the low light came on when the car was at an angle on the drive
what is the procedure please for bleeding the system and in what order, is it brakes, then slave cylinder found under the pedal then the clutch

I am using an eazi bleed pressurised kit,
Do i fill the bottle attach it to pressure from a spare tyre and crack the nipples open.
what is the procss for bleeding brakes as brakes have two nipples each and the process for slave and clutch bleeding

how much fluid will i need as i currently have a new bottle of ate gold 1 litre

heliolps2

Hello there Porsche friend, here's the link, you don't need to do the last step only for the Carrera 4, and no need for the Hammer OBD 1 good luck

https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...procedure.html

911 2

Thanks for the info
i had a read prior to putting up this thread but confused on a few points

is this the order the system should be bled

(8) Brakes - 4 brakes x 2 nipples each = 8 bleeds
(1) Clutch - 1 slave cylinder left rear wheel area
(1) Accumulator - 1 in front trunk; bleed via onboard hydraulic pump
(1) Dual solenoid valve block - 1 in front trunk

does the accumulator and dual solenoid valve have to be bled and what are these used for
a little onfused on how to bleed the accumulator and the solenoid valve is it just pressurise the system with the bleeding kit and open nipple

heliolps2

Hey there

964 Turbo does not have Dual solenoid valve block - 1 in front trunk just the 964 C4. and I would have 3 or 4 liters of fluid on hand,

Helio

911 2

thanks so the 964 turbo needs
brakes bleeding, uk vehicle passenger rear, driver rear, passenger front and driver front=
Clutch
Finally accumulator
I have ordered 4 litres of ate gold and a new sealy pump action brake bleeder

heliolps2

Yes sir

You will have to do it a few times to get all the old fluid out, The clutch bleeder has must of the old yuky fluid, Just bleed until it runs clean, Just keep you the bottle full with fluid, And must important is make sure you clamp the the breather hose to the fluid reservoir. And when bleeding the round ball accumulator, REALLY hold the bleeding hose really tight with your fringes when you break lose the bleeder. There's lot of pressure !!

911 2

main problem I a having is the gears are very hard to engage, when the car is running gears are difficult to select but ok when car switched off
if I have to bleed a few times do I have to do all the brakes, clutch and accumulator again or only the circuit which I feel still may have air
I have 4 litres of ate I assuming this should be sufficient
thankyou for the advice greatly appreciated as it seems very hard to get any info on the turbos

Metal Guru

You will have to pull the dust cap off of the brake fluid reservoir and add a hose. That way you can use a pair of needle-nose vice grips to clamp the vent shut.

911 2

breather hose is it an overflow is it at the top its part rubber hose and part metal

heliolps2

That is correct

911 2

ok guys bled the system but when i switch on the ignition the pump does prime but if i hit the brakes again a few times the pump starts priming for a few secs im assuming this isnt normal

the only step i was not sure about was the bleeding of the accumulator, on the final stage when releasing the accumulator pressure the fluid coming out was free of air bubbles but i tightened the nipple before all the fluid had drained was i suppose to wait for all the fluid to leave the accumulator before closing the nipple

also when i bled brakes i did the rear lines, then went to front but bled the driver side caliper first instead of passenger, realising my mistake I stopped and went to the passenger side caliper, bled this then returned to the passenger side would this have introduced air into the sysytem

heliolps2

Turn ignition ON
You better have remembered to disconnect the hydraulic pump power connector prior to this step otherwise you will quickly have a brake fluid fountain in the front of you car. The first thing a C4 does when you turn it on is power this pump to pressurize the complete hydraulic system in the car.

- Connect the plug to the hydraulic pump. As soon as no bubbles are visible anymore at the transparent bleeder line of collection bottle, disconnect electrical plug and close bleeder valve on the accumulator
This is a neat step. As soon as you connect the power plug to the pump it runs and you get this quick purge of fluid. Be sure and have your reservoir filled up before this step especially if you are using the dry method like I did. In my case I was watching for the ATE blue to turn into ATE gold brake fluid.

- Reconnect plug to hydraulic pump and allow pump to completely pressurize the system. When the system is fully pressurized the pump will switch off
Its obvious when the pump is running, I actually hear this in the car, so when you are right next to it you will know when it turns off.

- When the pump switches off, turn ignition OFF

- Disconnect hydraulic pump power plug

- Holding the bleeder tube firmly to the accumulator bleeder valve, open valve and completely drain accumulator pressure. When pressure is completely relieved tighten accumulator bleeder valve.
Now you are bleeding the accumulator "bomb" which is fully pressurized at this point so open the bleeder valve carefully the fluid will bleed out quickly. Remember to always be watching the brake fluid reservoir level.

- Repeat this procedure until brake fluid coming out into collector tubing is free of air bubbles.
Make sure your Motive bleeder is maintaining positive pressure, watch your reservoir fluid levels, take your time, do it right. I only went through this cycle once.

- When bleeding is finished, ensure accumulator bleeder valve is correctly tensioned and reconnect hydraulic pump plug.
Don't forget about the connector plug spring clip!

911 2

open valve a nd completely drain accumulator pressure. When pressure is completely relieved tighten accumulator bleeder valve.

confused at this stage what is meant by relieve the pressure ie when ths hissing stops on when no more brake fluid is coming out

Now you are bleeding the accumulator "bomb" which is fully pressurized at this point so open the bleeder valve carefully the fluid will bleed out quickly. Remember to always be watching the brake fluid reservoir level.

This is now being bled using pressure from the bleeder kit, am I correct in saying the brake fluid will keep coming out from pressure of the bleeder until nipple is closed

heliolps2

Relieve the pressure ie when ths hissing stops YES

Yes

911 2

i think I stopped after emptying the accumulator so hissing then all the fluid emptied. Have I reintroduced air into the system
can I just bleed the full stage for the accumulator or does the whole system ie brakes, clutch and accumulator have to be bled again