John McM

My engine was fully rebuilt about 10,000 miles ago and has developed two oil leaks. One of which is in the nose bearing bearing area (behind the pulley). It leaves this tell tale mess.

John McM

The fix requires removal of the pulley and fitting a Tom Amon sleeve around the bearing area. I spoke to Tom ( he only sells over the phone) and he said this weakness goes back many generations. http://www.mobileworkswest.com/forsale911.html (no affiliation) Today it was explained to me that the leak in this area is the result of a slight misalignment when the two case halves are torqued up.

John McM

I removed the alternator first, but this is not necessary for this job. I then sourced the special tools, both borrowed, one from an OPC. I also was grateful for a home made tool being provided but it was a no brainer to use the OPC tool when available.

With the cheater bar attached to a 22mm socket and the tool holding the pulley I easily undid the pulley bolt.

John McM

I then inserted the 17mm special tool bolt into the pulley thread and tightened it. I was surprised at how much force it took. Maybe because of the taper and high torque setting it takes a fair amount to shift it. The actual release was anticlimatic.

John McM

With the pulley off it was good to see that there was evidence of seepage I.e. That there was a problem to fix. The actual problem is that the joint where the two halves of the case meet can be slightly off, allowing oil to seep from the join. The engine rebuilder had anticipated this happening and had put RTV around the area but it hadn't held. In fact the RTV had ballooned out.

John McM

When cleaned up the join where it leaks is easily seen in the black circle here

John McM

The Tom Amon sleeve gives the RTV (JB Weld) a structure to support it. The sleeve is held in place with 3 grub screws.

John McM

When I was sure about the fit, I put a lot of JB Weld around the area, put the sleeve on, turned it 90 degrees and then tightened the grub screws. I also made sure that the JB Weld covered all of the area. If any oil tries to come out it will have a lot harder time from now.

After leaving the JB Weld overnight I will reassemble the pulley, fan etc. Overall a daunting job for a first timer, but not impossible. I did it. You really just need the right tools and a can do attitude.

AOW162435

The pics showing the RTV-slathered case halves - wow. An engine builder did this?



Andreas

YaHoo!

Excellent write up and pictures! Thanks for sharing.

John McM

Yes, an OPC engine builder

I've been finding small things like this everywhere on the car. I am inexperienced and slow but my time costs nothing so I can take as long as I want to get things right.

John McM

In the last year, the engine has sprung a significant leak from this vicinity again. Tonight, I will remove the pulley and check the area. In the off chance the JB Weld hasn't held, what are the alternatives? I've read of a number of sealants, but would like some actual experience before I seal it again.

apanossi

I suspect I have a small leak there too. Or possibly the IMS just below it. Both were replaced last year. I will be interested to know the solution.

seeq

I used crank shaft o-ring #999-707-285-41 instead of Tom Amon's sleeve. And cover with Ultra Blue RTV silicone. 20K miles and still dry. Few other used this same method from Pelican.

John McM

Gratuitous pic of correct tool to hold the pulley. So easy when you have the right equipment