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964 C4 light refurb

 
Old 01-02-2018, 06:10 PM
  #931  
John McM
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I'm expecting the top mount to arrive today so need to amass the tools.

The top nut is 22mm and needs to move independently of the internal shaft which is held by a 7mm hex.

So you need a special socket or to grind flanges on a 22mm socket so you can hold it with a spanner and insert a 7mm hex key down the socket hole.

While I used a borrowed ground down socket last time, I decided to buy something more professional this time.

Luckily they make a 22mm oxygen sensor socket that fits perfectly. Win! Used in conjunction with a 7mm hex socket it's an easy job.
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Old 01-02-2018, 09:20 PM
  #932  
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New mount is in and I like the quality. I bought it from Design 911 for USD 100. It's their retro line i.e. after market. That's where the good news ends....for me.

As soon as the old mount came off I had doubts. There was no slack in the mount centre and no obvious way it could click...unless the nut on top of the strut was loose. Quite possible after 2,500 miles of spirited driving

Hero to zero.
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Old 01-03-2018, 12:08 AM
  #933  
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so...the noise is coming somewhere from the control arm? Or top Mount itself?
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Old 01-03-2018, 01:21 AM
  #934  
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Originally Posted by 964tit View Post
so...the noise is coming somewhere from the control arm? Or top Mount itself?
I believe the noise was due to the top nut backing out so the strut had slack it could move with every time I went over a bump. So I’ve replaced a top mount when I just needed to retorque the nut, along with some Loctite 270 to hold it. You live and learn :/

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Old 01-03-2018, 01:33 AM
  #935  
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Crucial DIY today (not really). The garage chair ex a local cheap automotive supplier comes with rubbish wood in the base so it breaks and makes it difficult to sit on for long.

A $1 offcut of 7 ply from a local hardware store cut with a jigsaw and then restapled and refixed to the base has revived it.

These chairs are dirt cheap new (USD 26 from Harbor Freight) but I dislike planned obsolescence so I count this as a win.
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Old 01-03-2018, 02:23 PM
  #936  
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I’ve been doing quite a few oil changes recently and have a dilemma with torquing the engine drain bolt.

The torque specification is 32ft lbs or 50 Nm. This is too high for my smaller 1/4” torque wrench which would fit in the space between the heat exchanger and drain bolt. The 1/2” torque wrench with a normal 15mm socket is too large to fit in the gap. I looked for a shallow socket but couldn’t find one. There is a spanner type torque wrench available but that is $$$. What are others using to get the correct torque?
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Old 01-04-2018, 04:17 PM
  #937  
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One option for the above is to use a swivel joint. I'll try that at the next oil change. I have two new drain plugs coming so I don't risk rounding out the bolt head any more.
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Old 01-04-2018, 04:23 PM
  #938  
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First world problems. I ordered the correct interior screws by PET number and Porsche supplied chrome ones versus the black ones in the car. I think I'll buy the interior fixing kit next time. http://www.classic9leathershop.com/s...e-automobiles/
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Old 01-04-2018, 06:14 PM
  #939  
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Originally Posted by John McM View Post
What are others using to get the correct torque?
This won't help. I just tighten it until I'm happy......
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Old 01-04-2018, 06:56 PM
  #940  
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Originally Posted by ffc
This won't help. I just tighten it until I'm happy......
So was I until now. The drain plug is cheap to replace whereas the engine case thread is more of an issue. I think the likelihood is that manually tightening it is likely to be over tight.
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Old 01-04-2018, 07:01 PM
  #941  
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I'm lucky to have two C4s so I can compare driving performance and sense when something is below par e.g. I noticed that the White car brakes were so much better after its full bleed than the Silver car's so I completed a 13 point brake bleed on it.

It took three litres of fluid and approximately 3 hours. The extra litre of fluid was due to finding a lot of air in the rear calipers.

I think I might use the wet method next time as a lot of time is wasted checking and refilling the reservoir.

A bonus of the task was bonding time with my wife as she did the switch flipping for the diff locks. It was a close call between her and the scissor lift in terms of love for a moment there, but she's pulled out in front now
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Old 01-10-2018, 05:28 AM
  #942  
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I don't know what it is with Porsche owners but they are never shy of telling me when something isn't right on my cars. One such thing was the gap where the shark fin meets the side sill. For some reason the gap between the body and the last clip on the side sill is too large for the clip to latch. Rather than bend the body panel I modified the clip to a screw fit. I just used the screw off a spare shark fin clip. Very secure. The fit is now perfect even if the rubber is a little bit short :/
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Old 01-10-2018, 09:35 AM
  #943  
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I need a lift and platform system like that. Looks perfect for a single car garage also.
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Old 01-10-2018, 08:12 PM
  #944  
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Originally Posted by 911Jetta
I need a lift and platform system like that. Looks perfect for a single car garage also.
It is a game changer for the serious DIY mechanic and with the ramps could easily be used in a single garage.
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Old 01-10-2018, 08:18 PM
  #945  
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I went down to the local paint shop for a tin of touch up paint. I brought the spare tin of the 2k paint used to respray my car with me and the guy looked at me strangely.

He said, "why would I make up new paint when you already have a perfect match?"

When I replied that it was 2k and needs hardener he told me that it will still harden by itself, it just takes a bit longer.

Cheapest car day for a while, just use what I already have. He even put it into a smaller tin for free. Said I had paid enough for the paint in the first place. That's a win!
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